WHO-HOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!

[Mr. Moparman]

I gave up and tried Mopar0man's Homemade BMF. It worked good. I will try BMF any model I build now. A liitle sloppy but that will improve im sure. I proud of myyselve.

[george 53]

GREAT for you, Bran! That's how we learn. You keep goin like this an someday you may earn the name you've chosen. B)

[Jon Cole]

I gave up and tried Mopar0man's Homemade BMF. It worked good. I will try BMF any model I build now. A liitle sloppy but that will improve im sure. I proud of myyselve.

Now you're on!

[seeker589]

Congratulations!

Is there an article or tutorial on this?

[Mr. Moparman]

Congratulations!

Is there an article or tutorial on this?

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=34699

[highway]

Good for you, Brandon! I haven't tried that for the small things like in the tutorial yet, but I did the smae thing on a slightly larger surface two or three years before he did that tutorial!

I wanted that trailer to look like a stainless steel style, and just happened to be working on it when my better half was getting ready to put something in the oven for dinner and she looked at me with the tin foil box in hand and she said "Why couldn't you use this?". After looking at her like she had aliens coming out of her ears, she told me much the same technique as the tutorial and I thought it would never work, but it did!

[my80malibu]

For the most part, The only problem I have had with BMF was that it would not stick.That can really make it fustrating when applying! It seemed to be a problem Nationwide and hopefully that has been fixed. The last sheet I bought worked so much better.

[Jim Gibbons]

Good for you! (I mean that in the most positive sense!) I use this method constantly. I buy the cheapest dollar type store foil I can find, but I use a different adhesive. I use Micro Metal Foil Adhesive from Microscale which is a brush on adhesive. It's like a thin latex version of rubber cement. The good thing about it is that you use it after it dries, and when dry, can sit for a long period of time without having to apply more adhesive. Usually, it's applied to the foil, but I've built a number of natural metal finished aircraft this way, and applied it to the plastic. I use rubbing alcohol to clean the brush. You can order this adhesive from squadron.com (enter "foil adhesive" in the search). Bare Metal Foil company also lists an adhesive; I guess they've gotten some complaints on their foil. Here's a WW2 P-38 J Lightning built this way.

I do have to add this; you have to use a new or constantly sharpened knife blade. The foil will dull it rapidly.

Edited April 10, 2011 by Jim Gibbons

[Jantrix]

Very cool.

[MoparWoman Jamie]

I do have to add this; you have to use a new or constantly sharpened knife blade. The foil will dull it rapidly.

Wait a minute there my friend. I foil my builds all the time and I'm still running on the same blade from last summer yet and we are now in Spring time of the next year. I have not have to sharpen it or any thing. I have no idea why model builders say it will dull the blade when for me it hasn't yet.

Also note, if you get adhesive on the blade, use some prep all and BE CAREFUL very careful and wipe the knife black off with a paper towl with "prep-all" on it. It will clean the blade off very well on a few passes with the paper towl with the prep-all on.

[Jim Gibbons]

Wait a minute there my friend. I foil my builds all the time and I'm still running on the same blade from last summer yet and we are now in Spring time of the next year. I have not have to sharpen it or any thing. I have no idea why model builders say it will dull the blade when for me it hasn't yet.

Also note, if you get adhesive on the blade, use some prep all and BE CAREFUL very careful and wipe the knife black off with a paper towl with "prep-all" on it. It will clean the blade off very well on a few passes with the paper towl with the prep-all on.

I'm going on my experience; I find that if the blade dulls, it tends to tear the foil rather than cut it cleanly. Yes, in a open area such as a window, and there is little resistance on the blade, it is less of an issue. When I do aircraft and have to have close, clean mating areas from panel to panel, a dull blade will be disasterous. Ask me how I know! I do seem to recall a thread where someone lubricated the knife blade with lamp oil when trimming foil. I have to try that out when I do an aircraft model again.

[MoparWoman Jamie]

I'm going on my experience; I find that if the blade dulls, it tends to tear the foil rather than cut it cleanly. Yes, in a open area such as a window, and there is little resistance on the blade, it is less of an issue. When I do aircraft and have to have close, clean mating areas from panel to panel, a dull blade will be disasterous. Ask me how I know! I do seem to recall a thread where someone lubricated the knife blade with lamp oil when trimming foil. I have to try that out when I do an aircraft model again.

All I'm going to say here is I have even worked with dull blades as well in tight areas, and out in the open areas. I yet to have a problem like you are talking about even with a dull blade . And just so you and the others know, I have not use lamp oil yet on the blade to help it out.. all I used here and there was again Prep-All to get the adhesive off of the blade and then I was back to work again at the foiling. When cutting through foil, you always have to take your time and go very slow and follow the line you want. If you get in a hurry you will get sloppy more then likley and run off track of that line. LOL

BTW, I like your aircraft models man.

[Jim Gibbons]

BTW, I like your aircraft models man.

Thanks! Again, it's just been my experience. It's definitely not saying I know what I'm doing all the time!