clear?

[jon halt]

has anyone used the model master clear coat the kind in the bottle to clear their model car? i am thinking about trying it, can you use reagular enamal or laquer thinner, does it dry super shiny if applied wet how durable is it can it be wetsanded and polished. i am thinking about trying this instead of rustoleum clear any advise would be greatly appriciated. i know urethane clear would be alot of a better choice but simply dont have the money right now for it. but i know how to use it. i go to tech for autobody but just wanted to know about the model master clear in the bottle.

[Chillyb1]

I've used the Testors/Model Master clears (gloss, dull, and semi-gloss) and prefer them to their stuff in a spray can. I've always mixed them with regular lacquer thinner and had great results. If you are used to shooting through and airbrush, or just prefer it, then you shouldn't have any problems using the bottled stuff.

But I can also recommend the Rustoleum lacquer clear from a can. It is very easy to use and forgiving, and dries to a super glossy finish.

[Brendan]

The Model Master's bottled Clear will yellow over time. I find it easier to use either Tamiya's TS-13 or the stuff I like to use over decals is Floquil Crystal Cote. Both of these paints are far superior over Model Master's Clear.

[LoneWolf15]

Jon ,

I use nothing but the Model Master clear . I cut it at a 2 parts clear to 1 part cheap laquer thinner ratio . I know for a fact that it will yellow in time as a top coat over white . However , it has'nt on my other metallics and pearl colors , this is going back over a ten year period of time .

Apply light mist coats until you have a smooth and even coverage . I do not use the clear over standard colors , I simply polish them out . Hope this helps .

Donn Yost

Lone Wolf Custom Painting

[Zoom Zoom]

I have old examples of models clearcoated w/Model Master clear that have yellowed terribly. One silver model looks horrible compared to a newer model painted in silver lacquers. One model was painted w/Pactra light purple; the roof was clearcoated and the interior parts painted the same color were not. The roof is now completely gray. The interior is still the proper color. Even Testors white will yellow all by itself...as the carrier in the paint is also the same kind of varnish. The Testors clear is a varnish, as it ages it yellows, and will color shift any color it is applied over. If you value your paintjobs and don't want your colors to yellow over time (especially any colors in the "cool" spectrum...white, silvers, blues)...do not use enamel clear.

Yes, enamels are smooth to apply and polish out nicely, but I've moved far away from them and am very happy I have done so, judging by what's happened to my older models painted w/enamels that have yellowed.

[jon halt]

Jon ,

I use nothing but the Model Master clear . I cut it at a 2 parts clear to 1 part cheap laquer thinner ratio . I know for a fact that it will yellow in time as a top coat over white . However , it has'nt on my other metallics and pearl colors , this is going back over a ten year period of time .

Apply light mist coats until you have a smooth and even coverage . I do not use the clear over standard colors , I simply polish them out . Hope this helps .

Donn Yost

Lone Wolf Custom Painting

wow another pittsburgh local, i live there too. thanks for the info and i have acouple more questions,im painting my 68 charger go mango orange so im not real worried about yellowing cause i dont think it will show up but i just want something that is easier to apply instead of using a spraycan cause when i spray my models it will not be real shiney in the engine bay it will sometimes come out dull, and if i spray it to heavy it will eat away at the sharp lines and details. will the bottles of clear alos do this? and do you use like laquer thinner from walmart i beleive it is made by klean strip? also are they compatible over decals?

[jon halt]

I've used the Testors/Model Master clears (gloss, dull, and semi-gloss) and prefer them to their stuff in a spray can. I've always mixed them with regular lacquer thinner and had great results. If you are used to shooting through and airbrush, or just prefer it, then you shouldn't have any problems using the bottled stuff.

But I can also recommend the Rustoleum lacquer clear from a can. It is very easy to use and forgiving, and dries to a super glossy finish.

ok thanks, i used rustoleum clear on all my other cars so far but it hasnt really dried super glossy, but it is really durable and works well over decals, i just want to mix it up a bit and see which one works best