Airbrush vs Spray Cans

[MILD]

I know a lot of people make the switch to the air brush due to the quality of finish. Personally, I can't really say I am unhappy with the finish I am getting out of a can (with the exception of my now resolved Pure White debacle) however after another trip to the hobby shop and spending just under $100 AUD (currently trading above the USD but we do get price gouged out here!)on spray cans for my Dart build I am wondering just how much could be saved by making a dedicated switch to airbrushing. As an example, I bought a can of pure white, matt white, light grey primer, semi gloss black, Testors Chrome for an experiment, two cans of metallic green and a clear- came out at about $99!

I already have a compressor in my garage which I could dial down to suit an airbrush and I have a very cheap brush lying around that would need to be upgraded for modelling. Is moving to an airbrush a matter of decanting spray cans or do you guys buy bottles and mix with thinners? How do you find the shelf life of the paint in it's air brush ready form? How do you find the coverage?

I guess the main question is how much money could I save by going to airbrush?

[Agent G]

Well, I for one use both quite frequently.

With the cost of all hobby paints right now, I don't believe one is more cost effective than the other. I seem to spend as much on Tamiya acrylics for my armor models as I spend on spray cans of any brand for cars. I try to shop around and spend wisely. If I see a larger type spray can of a color I use frequently, black, white, silver etc. I buy it up.

The initial cash layout for the airbrush and related equipment can be intimidating for a newbie, yet they last almost forever with care. That said you can buy some really good quality stuff for less money if you shop around.

G

[niteowl7710]

Well if the cost benefit is worth it to you then I say go for it. There will of course be another learning curve involved while you get yourself up to speed with a new tool. I have one myself, but probably haven't had it out of the box in 15 years. Most of that because I am happy with what I get out of a can, and that I was out of the hobby as well. But I can see where I might blow off the dust and crack open the box with some paint jobs I want to do, that I'm not sure would turn out quite right using the old cans.

For price comparison here, a 1oz jar of Tamiya paint is $4.25, a large can of automotive lacquer spray is $6.69. I'm not sure what the exact paint to propellant volume is in one of those cans, but I think I can make it go further than the 1oz jar.

[mikemodeler]

To add to James' and Wayne's comments, I will say this. I buy my primers and basic colors in large spray cans as it makes economical sense. I bought a can (16 oz I think) of Duplicolor primer yesterday at the auto parts store for $5.39, I could buy a can of Testor's Model Master primer for about the same price but about 1/4 the size.

Looking around at some of the online sellers of paint (MCW comes to mind), you can have a much larger variety of colors and if you are looking for a specific color for an older vehicle, they are your ticket. I have 2 older Camaro builds on my shelf that a friend painted for me about 15 years ago. At the time he went to a body shop supply store and bought some Hugger Orange to spray my bodies and a couple of his as well with his airbrush. Today I can go to a hobby shop and get a can of Testors Hugger Orange and spray without using an airbrush like my friend did. The only down side to buying specific colors from a body shop supply store is that they typically sell quarts of paint (some might sell pints) but unless you have a bunch of vehicles to paint the same color, small jars from places like MCW are a better way to go.

I have had an airbrush for 15 years and still struggle with it. Maybe I am lazy, but I like to spray with a can as that is my comfort zone. I have vowed to use my airbrush more this year but have been too busy to take the time to do so. I can shake a can for 2 minutes and 30 minutes later the car is covered in color.

I suggest you use whatever method works best for you, time, money, and results wize.

[Mike Kucaba]

The thing that bothers me about threads on using an airbrush,as opposed to spraycan, is that most say there will probably be a learning curve.Like the first time you used a spray can you laid down a perfectly smooth,glossy paint job, that it immediately won best paint? Come on everything has a learning curve and some are longer than others. I have no facts about the aerosol vs. airbrush thing,but after the initial cost of the brush and compressor was amortized, I would have to believe that using an AB and bulk paint, it would come out cheaper,and better finish with less polishing/finesseing.

[niteowl7710]

The thing that bothers me about threads on using an airbrush,as opposed to spraycan, is that most say there will probably be a learning curve.Like the first time you used a spray can you laid down a perfectly smooth,glossy paint job, that it immediately won best paint? Come on everything has a learning curve and some are longer than others. I have no facts about the aerosol vs. airbrush thing,but after the initial cost of the brush and compressor was amortized, I would have to believe that using an AB and bulk paint, it would come out cheaper,and better finish with less polishing/finesseing.

No but when I laid down my first aerosol paint job I didn't have to worry about properly thinning the paint, selecting the proper sized nozzle, getting the correct air pressure out of my compressor, cleaning up the whole works so I could use my airbrush again without it being clogged up, etc, etc. There is significantly more time and effort involved in getting a decent airbrush paint job, than there is shaking a can and pointing it at the thing you want to be a different color, and then holding the can upside down to clear the nozzle. That time and effort will arguably give you a better result as well, but it's why you see people saying that they've been using an airbrush for 15 years and they still fight with it. No one has ever said they've fought with rattle cans for 15 years and still can't get the paint to come out properly thinned or under pressure (even if the pressure in a rattle can is universal and described by some as painting with a fire hose).

If you don't like learning curve, then perhaps "trial and error" is more appropriate!

[Erik Smith]

I am not sure how much, if any, you would save. It depends on what you are currently spending for cans of paint, what your painting, etc...

I use an airbrush and cans. Cans are really so easy and with quality paint it is possible to get a very nice finish. The best paint I have found in cans is Duplicolor (the Color Match brand) - I get an 8 oz. can for $6.99. It is more than enough to due a couple models and applies great.

HOK, MCW, and Scalefinishes paints are not cheap - $4.00 to $6.50 per ounce.

How much per project...some simple math...and, no I don't have an answer, but I don't see a savings here. Plus, you are adding in cleaning and maintenance with an airbrush.

The real advantage to an airbrush (besides quality of finish) is the range of products and colors available. Alclad II and all the OEM colors are not available (or not as easily available) in spray cans.

[Carmikeman]

one tip on the airbrush subject: get in good with your local bodyshop if you want to try automotive paint! one thing though, alot of places are getting away from laquer paint. (states are starting to treat laquer like trans-fat in our food.)

i use both airbrush and spray cans. spraycans are fine if all your going to do are paintjobs but, if you want good detail with weathering or pinpoint areas, an airbrush is the only way to go.

[Dr. Cranky]

You've posed an interesting question. Here's Doctor Cranky's take on it. I started using rattle cans of all brands and soon got frustrated with the color limitations, specially with Duplicolor, so one day I tried my hand at airbrushing nail polish (the colors are endless) and that led me straight into the two paint systems I use for my shiney builds . . . House of Kolor and AUTO AIR COLORS, both lines are excellent, but they will do a number on your wallet at the beginning, but then it becomes perfectly reasonable once you stock up on some of the basic things you need like the basic basecoats, a quart of the SG-100, and then some clear . . .

I still used rattle cans for all types of situations like Dullcoat is still my favorite flat clear, and Plastikote is still my favorite primer, etc . . .

You have to have lots of different weapons in your bench arsenal . . . it will give you choices and it will allow you greater freedom. Thank you for the great, thought-provoking thread.

[Mooneyzs]

You've posed an interesting question. Here's Doctor Cranky's take on it. I started using rattle cans of all brands and soon got frustrated with the color limitations, specially with Duplicolor, so one day I tried my hand at airbrushing nail polish (the colors are endless) and that led me straight into the two paint systems I use for my shiney builds . . . House of Kolor and AUTO AIR COLORS, both lines are excellent, but they will do a number on your wallet at the beginning, but then it becomes perfectly reasonable once you stock up on some of the basic things you need like the basic basecoats, a quart of the SG-100, and then some clear . . .

I still used rattle cans for all types of situations like Dullcoat is still my favorite flat clear, and Plastikote is still my favorite primer, etc . . .

You have to have lots of different weapons in your bench arsenal . . . it will give you choices and it will allow you greater freedom. Thank you for the great, thought-provoking thread.

I couldn't agree more with Virgil here. I myself used to use rattle cans (testors paint) for paint jobs years ago. I then picked up an air brush (a Badger model 200 which I still have to this day from over 15 years ago) and was using the bottled testors paint. I had some friends back home who were like family to me, turn me onto using automotive paints from the simple fact that the color choice was endless like Virgil said above. It does take some getting used to and a little bit of money to invest in your reducers, hardner and clear. But to me in the long run it is not as expensive as you would think. I personally use PPG DBC base coat and their clear coat as well as House of Kolor Air Brush bottles (4 oz sided bottles). most recently I have been turned onto PPG Omni Plus line which is a step or so below the DBC but cost is less as well. Any way depending on the color and if I am going to use for multiple builds I will have them mixed up in either a touch up bottle (which is like 3/4 oz), a 1/2 pint or a pint. The local PPG shop I go to charges about 8 or 10 bucks for the touch up bottle to about 30 bucks for a pint depending on the color, toners and pearls that are used to make the paint.

Quick example of the price. If you take a look at my thread on my 1/16th scale Front Engine Dratster over in the drag racing section. the purple I have used there for a pint of the PPG DBC they wanted about $90.00 due to the different pearls used in it. I ended up getting a pint of it in the PPG Omni line and it was only $28.00. I would say once you get used to using it, I don't think you would want to go back to rattle cans from the simple fact that you get a better result in my opinion with the paint. Also on another note I also use a Devilbiss Mini HPLV detail gun to shoot my models as well. all depends on how much paint I am mixing up to spray. Hopefully my post was helpful

[MILD]

Thanks to all who replied.

Given the fact I already have a compressor I think it may be worth picking up a decent airbrush to at least give it a go and form my own practical opinions. Something that I hadn't previously considered was the use of the smaller touch up guns- I can see the merit in that for larger things such as the bodies themselves.

I guess now is the time to check out one of the airbrush threads for advice on which one to pick up!

Thanks again.

[scale trucker]

also some boddy shops that mix there own paint sometimes will treat you good on base coat paints..for example i bought a quart of base flake for 25.00..