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Posted

get it all aligned right and then tape around the body where it cant move, pour superglue around the seam, then let the glue sit for the rest of the night. then around 10 hours later go back in and glue some supports in around the inside seam

Posted

Yes, Cynoaccranate glues have a shelf life . I buy the least amount as needed and then , I try and buy from a dealer that has enough sense to "Rotate " their inventory as these glues do go bad , generally two years . Ed Shaver

Posted

I would go with Jerry on this; sounds like you may have mold release on the resin. Another hint- sand both mating surfaces for a better bond, and start out with a small amount of glue,until it sets-and then add more glue. I go through one or two tubes a week of superglue,and use it for everything from joining panels to filling pinholes to using it for bondo on large areas like roofs. I buy the cheap stuff at Walmart (4 tubes fer a dollar) and have never had it go bad (unless I left the lid off), but maybe I'm just lucky. One other tip....use accelerator,but don't spray it,use a toothpick to apply it,and be QUICK, or you will glue the toothpick to the item you are bonding. It will go a lot farther....(It ain't cheap ! )Steve Zimmerman aka the'Z'man

Posted

As above, also as CA ages it takes longer to set up and will need to be kicked. You can tell if it is aging because it starts to smell bad.

Posted

Thanks guys. I have the nose taped and the glue applied. The glue I have is Loctite from Walmart. I have had it for at least two years, so it may have gone bad on me. I don't remember if I cleaned the resin or not. I did use some rough grit sand paper and hit both surfaces to be glued.

Posted

Loctite is good CA but it seems to go bad faster than most. When I lived in St Louis it lasted a bit longer than here in hot dry Henderson.

G

Posted

only issue i ever had with superglue (apart from glueing myself to myself) is that after one or two uses i cant get the dad gum cap off

its almost like its superglued on

Posted

Did you clean the resin part with Bleach Wite or other cleanser?

I would go with Jerry on this; sounds like you may have mold release on the resin. Another hint- sand both mating surfaces for a better bond, and start out with a small amount of glue,until it sets-and then add more glue. I go through one or two tubes a week of superglue,and use it for everything from joining panels to filling pinholes to using it for bondo on large areas like roofs. I buy the cheap stuff at Walmart (4 tubes fer a dollar) and have never had it go bad (unless I left the lid off), but maybe I'm just lucky. One other tip....use accelerator,but don't spray it,use a toothpick to apply it,and be QUICK, or you will glue the toothpick to the item you are bonding. It will go a lot farther....(It ain't cheap ! )Steve Zimmerman aka the'Z'man

I gotta agree with these guys. I will add that one trick with resin is a good thorough cleaning done BEFORE any sanding or work is done. This will prevent mold release from geting on your tools and sandpaper causing all sorts of problems that show up later.......much later :blink:;)

Posted

I don't remember if I cleaned the resin or not.

This might also be a problem when it comes time to paint the body, Ken....you might want to clean it now before you go too much farther.

If your current stash of super glue doesn't do what it's supposed to, I'd say either re-do the glue joint with fresh stuff or use 5-minute epoxy for the job.

Posted

Thanks for all the tips guys!!!! I recleaned everything, rough sanded the joints again. Went to Wally world and got a fresh bottle of super glue. Retaped everything and applied the glue to the joints. I now have a joined nose to body. I will post a pic in the next few days to show what you all helped me accomplish.

Posted

Cyanoacrylates (CAs) have become the adhesive of choice for most hobby and household applications. High quality CAs such as INSTA-CUREâ„¢, when used properly, form bonds that in many cases are stronger than the material that is being adhered. INSTA-CUREâ„¢ is a highly refined CA which, combined with its freshness, gives a guaranteed 2 year shelf life. CAs are reactive monomers that chemically link (polymerize) when pressed into a thin film. The very thin layer of water moisture present on most surfaces acts as an alkali, or weak base, which is the catalyst that results in bonding; however, the presence of detectable amounts of water usually degrades the performance of CAs.

Thanks to Bob Smith Industries for these facts.....

http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html

Posted

Speaking of superglue, I like the 'thick' stuff from Mercury Adhesives. I have also used Zap. The thick stuff does clog in the tip. I try to prevent this by keeping it upright when not in use, as well as tapping it down when I do upright it after use, then I squeeze; wipe clean the tip, then let go.

Eventually it still clogs. I use drill bits in a pin vise to open it up, once it is dry. But last night, I couldn't get it opened, so I chucked a drill bit almost 1/16" and really opened it up using a moto tool! I had to continually clean the bit using a dental pick & acetone, but at least I got it opened up.

Posted

yeah, that 'll sit reall well with the wife

It's capped, stored and not tipped, should be no issue.

We've done this (Dad and I) since I was very little, and we've never had any issues with food contamination or other problems.

Charlie

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