Stainless Steel Buffed Metalizer?

[SuperStockAndy]

I would appreciate it if anybody could post a picture of Stainless Steel Buffing Metalizer that's already been buffed. I want to see how close to chrome it is.

Thanks!

[Longbox55]

I don't have any pix, but if you're looking for a chrome finish, Alclad or BMF would be a better choice. The Stainless Metallizer doesn't buff out to that high of a shine, unlike real stainless, which can actually outshine chrome if polished correctly.

[SuperStockAndy]

I don't have any pix, but if you're looking for a chrome finish, Alclad or BMF would be a better choice. The Stainless Metallizer doesn't buff out to that high of a shine, unlike real stainless, which can actually outshine chrome if polished correctly.

I need it for wheels, and I'm not getting an airbrush only for Alclad...I prefer spray cans anyway

[Harry P.]

None of the metalizer colors comes close to chrome, and that's not what they are for. They are supposed to represent various bare metal surfaces, either raw or polished (depending on whether or not you buff it out after it dries)... but they're not intended to simulate chrome.

In fact, there is no spray in a can that looks like chrome plating, even if they have the word "chrome" in the name. About the closest to a chrome look you'll get is a polished aluminum look... like polished aluminum wheels. But that doesn't look like chrome plating, which has a mirror finish.

[SuperStockAndy]

Thanks guys.

Actually the wheels for the build I'm doing are polished aluminum now that I think about it.

[Romell R]

Spaz stix is the closest thing Ive seen to Chrome even better than alclad. I usually get mine off ebay, you will need an air brush to spray it though.

Edited July 14, 2011 by Aftashox

[Art Laski]

If you want a more polished look with the Metalizer, you might want to polish the plastic before you apply it using a polishing kit, then buff the metalizer, of course. I've gotten good results with that when I wanted some luster from metalizers.

-Art

[SuperStockAndy]

Thanks guys!

What's the best "spray" chrome that won't make me go broke?

[outlaw035]

andy the closest thing i have found to chrome in a spray can is "spaz stix" ultimate mirror chrome...its hard to find but i did locate it at a local hobby shop or u can go to spazstix.com

[SuperStockAndy]

Thanks Neal, I'll keep my eye out!

[Dragracer]

Andy, to get a real nice polished aluminum look for your wheels, I'd recommend the Aluminum Plate metalizer,spray your part(s), let it dry for an hour, then buff it out with a old T-Shirt, it comes out real nice, I paint most of my stuff that way, painted a Galaxie Trailer floor/ramp with the Aluminum Plate,buffed it out & it came out great, 1 thing I noticed about the Aluminum Plate over the other metalizer paints, you HAVE to use either the sealer or clear coat it, the Aluminum Plate will rub off on your hands very easily, more so then the other metalizers I've used, also, it looks to me like the sealer will dull the shine a little, I'd use the clear coat over the Plate. Hope this helps somewhat.

[LAone]

wellll alclad does have chrome in a spray can. you can get great results too. just follow the instructions...

the bumpers were shot with rustoleum gloss black and then the alclad in a can. it's not too bad. i got better results with tamiya gloss black. it calls to use a water based gloss black. so next i might try that.

[LAone]

oh, heres alclad polished aluminum, airbrush required. i shot this through an inexpensive badger 350 using a fine tip. can be bought for really cheap and does the job.

so honestly, just buy an airbrush.

[Brutalform]

This engine done with it, and just rubbed with a Q Tip.

[SuperStockAndy]

Thanks guys!!

Luis, I just might have to get a Badger 350. I never knew that they were only $50.

[Dragracer]

keep in mind that as soon as you shoot any clear onto the buffed Metalizer that you will instantly lose the buffed finish and sheen.

from my experience with the Metalizers too, when they are sufficiently buffed the amount of "rub-off" onto your skin is greatly reduced or does not happen anymore. now, buffed but unsealed or cleared Metalizers are very porous and will glue stain pretty badly if you arent careful. make sure that you do not get any glue onto the areas that you don't want it on. also be sure that your hands are clean before touching it as the oils or anything else on your hands and fingers will stain the finish.

someone above mentioned the floor of a trailer painted with Metalizer and buffed, but not cleared? in this case i'll almost bet that there is transfer of the Metalizer to whatever vinyl or rubber tires come in contact with that floor.

something else i do when i paint wheels with Metalizer is to be sure that the part of the wheel that contacts the vinyl or rubber tires is sealed with the Metalizer sealer or some other kind of clear as the Metalizer will leach out onto the tire if you don't. if you plan to polish or buff the face of the wheel then seal or clear the "bead" area that touches the tire and buff/polish the face before placing the wheel into the tire.

That was me with the Galaxie Trailer DD,& I know your right about the transfer of metalizer to the tires,but right now the trailer is back to sitting in it's box in storage, its not finished yet so no tires have touched it, I plan on clearing the flooring when I get back to building it.

[SuperStockAndy]

Thanks guys.

I think I'm just going to put a Badger 350 on my Christmas list

[59 Impala]

Andy, if you have a Harbour Freight store in your area you can get a copy of the badger for 15 dollars. That's what I use to paint everything. Dan

[SuperStockAndy]

I think there is a Harbour Freight in town

Thanks!