brodie_83 Posted October 1, 2011 Author Posted October 1, 2011 Thanks man! Appreciated! I didn't get much done tonight, but I was toying around with Meguiar's Ultimate Polish, and MAN that stuff works good! I thought I needed sandpaper to make the clear look good...I was wrong! No polish:
brodie_83 Posted October 1, 2011 Author Posted October 1, 2011 Oh yeah, I dropped the hood on the floor while polishing it and took a chip out of the da mn thing! I was a little pissed. Now I'll have to strip the hood and do it all over again for the 3rd time!
LAone Posted October 1, 2011 Posted October 1, 2011 looks good bro. sucks about the chip, seems as if this kit is going down with a fight...
brodie_83 Posted October 2, 2011 Author Posted October 2, 2011 SON OF A B*TCH! I burned through the paint again! This time on the front fender....this is really starting to piss me off. I've spent way too much time on this thing, and I can't keep adding and adding paint/clear. What's the best way to strip the body? I'm going to have to start from scratch and build the sh*t out of the clear (I put 4 coats on last time...apparently not enough). Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
CrewDawg15 Posted October 2, 2011 Posted October 2, 2011 Too bad on the finish. I too have a heavy hand when it comes to polishing out my finishes. That's why I avoid metallics, and stick with solid colors. That way I can lay down 5-6 color coats..plenty of "insurance" against burn thru. When I do metallic finishes, I usually lay down 3 color coats followed by 3-4 clear coats. When its all dry, I tape off all of the edges and polish. When I'm done with the main parts, I CAREFULLY pull the tape off of the edges, and lightly polish those out. Jimmy
RodneyBad Posted October 2, 2011 Posted October 2, 2011 (edited) . Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Dawn Powerdesolver works perty good. Ya might be able to find it in the dishwasher cleaner/soap area of your local store. BTW: the body paint and the rest looks perty good.. Edited October 2, 2011 by RodneyBad
brodie_83 Posted October 2, 2011 Author Posted October 2, 2011 Awesome, thanks for the suggestion! I have searched this on the forum and found that it is supposed to be one of, if not THE best ways to strip paint down to bare plastic. I think I've used oven cleaner before (hated the smell), and CSC has never worked for me...works awesome on chrome, but not to strip paint. I'm going to Wal-Mart now to go find some DPD!
sak Posted October 2, 2011 Posted October 2, 2011 (edited) Same thing happens to me brother. Use more clear if you have too. I noticed alot of orange peel in the clear. Rember that the smoother the surface is, the less sanding you will need to do. Actually, when I went back to the primer stage, it looks to me like its the surface of the primer that is the problem. Primer it, then hit it with some wet dry sandpaper, maybe 1000 grit , then spray the color coat. That should help. Edited October 2, 2011 by sak
brodie_83 Posted October 2, 2011 Author Posted October 2, 2011 Yeah, thanks. I didn't sand the primer at all except on the roof where that spot was. The paint comes out super orange peely as well, and you can't sand on metallics...so I'm stuck with that. I'm hoping when everything is stripped, the U-Pol clear lays out much better over the Duplicolor color coats. It's really nice clear! Anyways, now I got a little more pissed...I got 2 bottles of Dawn Power Dissolver and dumped it into a container with the body in it. Bad thing is, I had the engine right next to the container and some of it splashed onto the valve covers, so now I have to redo those as well...AAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is a never-ending nightmare! At least I'm learning a lot out of this build...whew! LoL alright, so here's the pictures. Burn-through marks: Why I'm pissed that I have to strip the body...look at that perfect reflection on the roof! Ready for the DPC bath!
brodie_83 Posted October 2, 2011 Author Posted October 2, 2011 Added the hood and wheels: SONOFABISH! At least I washed it off before it got worse!
brodie_83 Posted October 5, 2011 Author Posted October 5, 2011 Still waiting for the stuff to take the paint off...is it supposed to just sit in the stuff and the all of a sudden the body has no paint? Or do you have to rinse it off to get the paint off? I'll leave it sit for a few more days...
walt francis Posted October 5, 2011 Posted October 5, 2011 I would go with Easy-off oven cleaner works alot better and this is only one day in the bucket
RodneyBad Posted October 5, 2011 Posted October 5, 2011 I just spray it on and wait a day. Next day use a tooth brush (an old one) and wear rubber gloves. It will still eat your finger prints away.. I take it you splashed it onto your engine? WHoops, that sucks. A little touch up won't be too bad.(?) BTW: the paint was looking good up to that point.
charlie8575 Posted October 5, 2011 Posted October 5, 2011 Brodie, we've all had builds like. For some of us, that's every single one of them to one degree or another! And yes, I include myself in that count. You've done a great job with this. Don't let the plastic outsmart you. Charlie Larkin
martinfan5 Posted October 5, 2011 Posted October 5, 2011 It happens to all of us at one time or another, dont let it get you down, if makes you feel any better, I have been having paint problems with my bandit trans am build. I kid you not I have striped the body four times and bought four different types/brands of black paint this last week for it.
LAone Posted October 5, 2011 Posted October 5, 2011 dang man, really putting up a fight aint it... well the good this is your learning. best of luck on the next try.
brodie_83 Posted October 6, 2011 Author Posted October 6, 2011 Thanks for the kind remarks guys! I'm trying not to lose it with this build...I tend to have a short temper with the simplest things sometimes. LoL I'm going to get the engine back together, but will hopefully look a little better than it did...not saying it looked bad before. Oh, and just for a "pick-me-up", I finally got the engine from Jimmy aka "CrewDawg15"...and it is amazing! He even sent me a bunch of hoses and wires and such! Along with 2 rolls of masking tape and a parts cutter! For $20, this was a steal! I can't believe he made every component from scratch! Talent...he has it. Engine block: Transmission: Valve cover, oil pan and intake manifold: Header:
brodie_83 Posted October 6, 2011 Author Posted October 6, 2011 Oil filter, starter, and distributor: Compared to the 5-MGE from the Supra kit...a bit smaller, but will make it work non the less! Various engine bay plumbing: And the goodies: I am impressed to say the least with this package sent to me, as well as the craftsmanship and love put into the detail! I'll do this one right, I promise! Ok, enough of the "Celica GT-S" project that hasn't started yet...I gotta finish this ###### Supra!
surfjunke Posted October 7, 2011 Posted October 7, 2011 You have put a lot of work into this Supra. It does look good. Sorry to see it is putting up such a fight. We have all been there. The paint on the body is the toughest part of modeling for me as well. Keep up the good work. Great detail painting.
LAone Posted October 7, 2011 Posted October 7, 2011 jimmy is by far the nicest person ever. i have bought every one of the engines that he has made and casted. great detail and skills. the engine will be as close as possible to actual scale. jimmy boy does his homework.
novadose71 Posted October 7, 2011 Posted October 7, 2011 Besides the problems your having it's looking really good. The interior is great. Keep plugging away, you'll get it done. BTW Iooks like the engine from Jimmy is a 4 cylinder versus the 6 from the Supra.....2 extra cylinders makes for a longer engine
LAone Posted October 7, 2011 Posted October 7, 2011 haha, and if you notice the resemblance of the transmission?? the 7m shares the same W58 trans as the 22R does..
brodie_83 Posted October 7, 2011 Author Posted October 7, 2011 I know, but the trans is quite a bit shorter than the 5M transmission kit-wise. I know he usually makes these engine/trans kits for 1:24 Fujimi kits, but this is a 1:25 kit (a tad smaller than 1:24) and should be bigger...wouldn't you think? I dunno...I don't think it's gonna be a problem. I knew that the 22RE and 5M shared the same trans. I guess they are built pretty well and can handle lots of power, which is good.
CrewDawg15 Posted October 8, 2011 Posted October 8, 2011 (edited) I'm glad the engine made it to you If you look at the transmissions, the main differnce is the length of the bellhousing. Most 22R-E powered cars and trucks utilized a W55 manual transmission with the starter located on the opposite side. The person who commissioned me to build this engine sent me detailed pictures and measurements of the hybrid W58 transmission he wanted me to replicate...a tranny that he had in his shed. That is why the bellhousing is a bit shorter and has more rib detail than the 6 cylinder bellhousing of the kit's engine. Most of the aluminum cased W series transmission gearboxes, bellhousing and tailhousings are interchangeable between each other. Enough of the technical talk...lets see some more progress on this dragon build Edited October 8, 2011 by CrewDawg15
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