Need some tutoring in paint types.

[Jantrix]

Okay guys, I've yet to get into airbrushing, but I have one and it's on my to-do list, to get my building to the next level. I WANT to be able to paint like Zed. But I am confused as to paint types. I know there are many paint types, but I know little about them apart from drying times. There are....

Enamels

Acrylics

Lacquers

Acrylic Enamels

Acrylic Lacquers

and I know there are some others in the auto paint realm that I cannot recall. Can someone in the know please give us a break down on these paint? What they are based on (water, solvents, etc). And how they are found (airbrush/rattle can/auto paints, etc.).

Also I have seen several threads these days about which company sells better paint, MCW/ScaleFinishes/HOK, and there seems to be a general disagreement about the types of paint they use.

Lastly, I live in Florida. Which means humidity is a factory 24/7/365 and for the forseeable future I will NOT have access to an indoor paint booth. So I would like someone to recommend an airbrush paint type and brand that they have had good luck with painting in humid conditions.

Sorry to ask so much, but I think it would behoove us to get this information straight and perhaps get a sticky on it, rather than rehash it every time someone like me wants to paint like Zed.

[Mike Kucaba]

I would stick with one brand/type of paint.I.E enamels would be Scale Finishes, Lacquer would be MCW.

As for humidity,there are thinners and reducers that have properties that alleviate to some degree those types of problems. You buy them at body shop supply stores,and yes,they are somewhat costly. Please practice a real lot on plastic spoons or something instead of car bodies(even junkers) before you shoot that masterpiece.

[Jantrix]

Thanks Mike.

[Art Anderson]

Paint types:

Enamels Essentially, enamel paints are varnish with pigment. These generally come thinned with petroleum distillates which evaporate slowly, leaving behind the resins in the carrier, mixed with pigments. Enamels tend not to shrink markedly upon drying, so they can build up in thickness quickly on a model surface.

Acrylics By this, I suspect you mean water-based flat finish paints such as Polly S. This type of paint stems from the waterbased latex paints introduced for painting houses inside and out about 60-yrs ago, then the concept became available in artists colors, finally in paints for models. This type of paint uses water, and a type of alcohol for reducing, and dries flat, but is very humidity. Because this is water-borne paint, the higher the humidity, the slower the drying time.

Lacquers are one of the oldest forms of finishes, starting with shellac, then being made by dissolving nitrocellulose in acetone, and finally, the use of synthetic acrylic plastics dissolved in rather strong thinners. Lacquer has great shrinking properties, as it dries entirely be evaporation of the solvents used, but those solvents are almost always "penetrating", in that a succeeding coat of lacquer will tend to penetrate, at least slightly dissolve the preceding coat--and that, if the solvents are too strong, can cause crazing on the surface of styrene plastic. The modern hobby lacquers such as ModelMaster and Tamiya are made with solvents that will penetrate preceding coats, but generally won't attack styrene plastic.

Acrylic Enamels are synthetic in their carrier, and generally can be used with a catalyst to speed drying.

Acrylic Lacquers, as noted above, are made from synthetic materials, generally acrylic plastics, dissolved in lacquer thinner.

Art

[Jantrix]

Great info Art. Thanks very much.

[sportandmiah]

There is so much knowledge on this site, but getting people to respond is like pulling teeth sometimes. For some reason, threads that involve arguing and bickering get 4 pages of input, but 5 people might respond to paint questions. My suggestion is do as I did: join every modeling forum, and read every thread in the painting section. I've spent the past month and a half reading, and finally started laying down some paint, with better results than I've ever had. I think I spend more time reading that modeling, LOL, but I enjoy learning as much as possible before jumping into things and wasting money. Good luck. If I can be of any assistance shoot me a PM.

[crazyjim]

For about the past 12 - 18 months, I've been using strictly HOK paints shot through an airbrush. It's much better than rattle cans, IMO. Recently purchased a Pace spray booth that's ducted to the outside too. Marvelous setup.

[Chillyb1]

Okay guys, I've yet to get into airbrushing, but I have one and it's on my to-do list

Rob, I've seen the Jantrix name around here and the Scale Auto forum for so long I just assumed you got into an airbrush long ago. After I got back into modeling a few years ago, I experienced an astonishing moment of revelation when I got my first airbrush. I think it is the single greatest tool for the scale modeler. Anyway....

Enamels - I gave up entirely on enamels because...,well for no real good reason. I got tired of drying time, which can be considerably shortened by thinning them with lacquer thinner and shooting them through an airbrush. Mostly I got to liking lacquers and acrylics more.

Acrylics - The only acrylics I have experience with are Tamiya's. I recently got some Folk Art to play with but my experience is so far negligible. Acrylics take a lot of coats to provide good coverage. I use them only for interiors and other not-so-visible parts. Easy to mix and none of that toxic odor you get with lacquers or enamels. I'd never think of using them on a body, though.

Lacquers - My favorite, but, Mr. Humidity, they are highly susceptible to blushing due to ambient moisture. I've used many different kinds of lacquers, most of which are commonly available. Plasti-kote used to have a wide variety available in 1-ounce bottles that are convenient and very easy to use; however, I can't find them anymore (fortunately, I hoarded about fifty bottles!). I'm less excited by, but have used, both Plasti-kote and Dupli-color automotive lacquers in cans, which are easily found in auto parts places. These are incredibly malodorous, but come is a fantastic array of colors. They are VERY, VERY sensitive to humidity, less so if shot through an airbrush.

My absolute all-time favorite lacquers are from Tamiya. Very forgiving, easy to decant for airbrush, quick drying, mixable, and NOT AS SENSITIVE TO HUMIDITY as other lacquers. I use these almost exclusively for all my car model painting needs.

Acrylic Enamels

Acrylic Lacquers - What I've found with both of these is that they are incredibly aggressive on plastic. I try to stay away from them.

I hope some of that is helpful.

Lastly, I live in Florida. Which means humidity is a factory 24/7/365 and for the forseeable future I will NOT have access to an indoor paint booth. So I would like someone to recommend an airbrush paint type and brand that they have had good luck with painting in humid conditions.

As mentioned above, I highly recommend Tamiya's spray can lacquers, which are much less susceptible to humidity-related problems that other lacquers I've used.

[Jantrix]

Rob, I've seen the Jantrix name around here and the Scale Auto forum for so long I just assumed you got into an airbrush long ago. After I got back into modeling a few years ago, I experienced an astonishing moment of revelation when I got my first airbrush. I think it is the single greatest tool for the scale modeler. Anyway....

As mentioned above, I highly recommend Tamiya's spray can lacquers, which are much less susceptible to humidity-related problems that other lacquers I've used.

Chilly. Yeah, I've been around a while and have been getting by on Duplicolor lacquers for a while now. I've gotten a few cans of Model Master One Shots and Tamiya and have used them with great success. But I haven't decanted them yet. Are they thin enough to shoot or are you thinning them? If so with what? I have one project that really needs a nice gloss paint job, but I've done some body work which I DON'T want to have to redo if it has to take a purple dip. Thanks in advance.

And Doug, you are quite right. If I'd started a rant about this or that, this would be a 12 page thread by now. Jim, where are you ordering your paint from?

[Dr. Cranky]

For the kind of work Zed does, I suggest HOK, and if you wait a little bit the Shimrin 2s are coming out very soon with more colors.

The best airbrush I use is an IWATA ECLIPSE.

I live in Florida too and all I can tell you is to do what I do which is paint 3-5 bodies at a time when the weather is good.

[crazyjim]

I was getting HOK paints from TCP Global but discovered (through Dr. Cranky) Coast Airbrush. Coast is about $2 per 2oz bottle of pre-mixed paint cheaper than TCP. I'm in the process of trying to get an order together for Coast.

[MikeMc]

There is so much knowledge on this site, but getting people to respond is like pulling teeth sometimes. For some reason, threads that involve arguing and bickering get 4 pages of input, but 5 people might respond to paint questions. My suggestion is do as I did: join every modeling forum, and read every thread in the painting section. I've spent the past month and a half reading, and finally started laying down some paint, with better results than I've ever had. I think I spend more time reading that modeling, LOL, but I enjoy learning as much as possible before jumping into things and wasting money. Good luck. If I can be of any assistance shoot me a PM.

I can read by myself....I suggest spending the money, practice with ONE MEDIUM then you can expand...I shoot lacquers and acrylics...BUT buy Donn Yosts DVD and try his way...cheap, easy, and it works.

I also belong to a number of forums, and everyone has different "correct ways" to paint...Try Donns Technique.

[sportandmiah]

I can read by myself....I suggest spending the money, practice with ONE MEDIUM then you can expand...I shoot lacquers and acrylics...BUT buy Donn Yosts DVD and try his way...cheap, easy, and it works.

I also belong to a number of forums, and everyone has different "correct ways" to paint...Try Donns Technique.

Agreed. Get Donn's video. It will help tremendously.

[Jantrix]

Thanks guys. Great advice, I'll look into finding that video.

[MikeMc]

Rob...think about a dehydrator..I paint year round ( way farther south than you) Blush is real...but can be dealt with. Acrylics and Auto Air will work the best down here....BUT a different learning curve as there are so many different acrylics. Water Based auto paints are coming quickly..and the prices are coming down. As we do not need UV protection they do work well....BUT cleanup and drying are totally different than lacquers or enamels...ultra thin "spatter" coats to start, followed by a hair dryer....Thats right out of the Auto Air DVD!...The results are great...

http://www.autoaircolors.com/

Heres a quick Tutorial by "Nub"

Edited August 30, 2011 by MIKE THE MANIAC

[Tonioseven]

I paint with whatever I can shoot through my Iwata Eclipse (knockoff) and my (real) Paasche H. I've lived here for almost five years and the learning curve is what The Maniac and Dr. Cranky stated earlier. All of the paintjobs I've done in the last 4.5 years were done outside, without a booth, during fair weather or early mornings on low-humidity days. I use Scalefinishes, House of Kolor and fingernail polish thinned with Scalefinishes enamel reducer primarily but again, if I can get it to shoot through an airbrush, I give it a go. Lol. Hope this has been of some help. Here's an airbrush on Ebay that I'm thinkin' about purchasing to see what's up with it...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/180705113323?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

[scalenut]

I use createx for everything

[MikeMc]

I use createx for everything

Auto Air is by the same people...but its Auto paint!

[sportandmiah]

I use createx for everything

What airbrush do you use? I have a Paasche H with the 1,3, and 5 tip. Can you take us through the process you use? I really want to learn how to properly paint car bodies using Creatix.

[scalenut]

Answer to spraying Createx questions

I use a badger 155 and . a passche h... not much different from spraying any other paint....... but there are some crucial differences in going about it.,,

a primer or at least, wet sanding/deglossing the plastic is essential.

light coats hit with a blow dryer lightly between coats.

the model body or parts must be filled, sanded, fit and prepared before painting as you can not sand or repair createx paint.

if you do try to sand it..... it will ball up like eraser particles.

Createx has to be clear coated to protect it as well as gloss coated prior to decals...bare metal foil can be applied prior to any clear coating

however handling the painted parts prior to clear coating is risky as the unprotected paint can and will pick up dust and fingerprints like a magnet..

it's tricky to work with at first, but I have my system down and achieve some fantastic finishes and plenty of comments about them.

considering these things , It's probably not the best choice for beginning airbrushers/model builders

It is a great paint to practice with and learn to spray, since it's pre thinned and cheap

The biggest bonus of createx is, it's designed to go on flat. and than be cleared to achieve the gloss

the benefit of this is that light shines thru the gloss and strikes the flat underlayer bouncing it in all directions. this provides a brilliance and depth of color that is not obtained from a one shot gloss paint no matter how much you polish and wax the paint or it's clear coat..

when done well,...you have to see it to believe it .especially under an automotive clear !

I have seen some people ask in forums " why are some acrylics flat when I want a glossy finish,,, whats the point ?" ..

well........now you know...lol.

also I have never had createx react to humidity, heat, cold, other paints and clears ..it's pretty much idiot proof in that regard.

I'm still a beginning car modeler but I have been spraying createx for 7 years now.. that's the main reason I made it work for my modeling as well.

(plus I have a ton of paint !).

Auto Air is very similar and a great next step as it provides many more colors including the transparent candys and metallic base coats

Edited September 1, 2011 by scalenut

[sportandmiah]

Thanks for the details Scalenut! When you use the blow drier, what are the times in between? How many coats does it take until you are done or semi-glossy?

[sportandmiah]

I can buy dvd's until im blue in the face. Share your knowledge people! 8000 members here...im sure someone wouldn't mind taking a few.minutes to explain things especially since its related to model cars.

[Chas SCR]

Auto Air is a good paint and you do not have to clear it before putting decales or even BMF on. If you let it dry long enuff the stuff gets as about as hard as any thing els. Plus when you go to clearing it you have to make sure its dry to the point of not changing shades of color on you. You can really sit there and watch this happen. I worked with the stuff right when it came out for 3yrs and like it to a point but it still has it's down falls. The only clear to really bring out it's true color is urethane clear.

I now use only Du Pont paint and clear, If there is some thing in other brands then I shoot it on a pannal and have it scan so it can be made from Du Pont paint.

The main thing is stay with all one brand from Primer to clear as if some thing happens then you can ask and get the right answer! If you start mixing brands then its really a guessing answer then any thing.