Engine question, deck height, Chrysler B into RB series

[Aaronw]

I'm looking at modifying a Chrysler 361 (B series) into a 413 (RB series). I understand that externally the big change is the RB has a 0.745" taller deck height allowing for a longer stroke (accounting for the greater displacement).

So I'm under the impression I can do this simply by adding a shim made from 0.03" plastic sheet under the engine heads. Do I also need to build up the area between the heads?

Am I barking up the wrong tree completely?

Thanks

Edited September 22, 2011 by Aaronw

[slantasaurus]

You would be correct and yes, you would also need to add a shim between the intake and heads. Is it really an issue ? Revell and Lindberg both use the same parts to represnt 383 and 440 engines because there is so little difference. IMO, it's not worh doing. If I was going to take the time to make a Chrysler B/RB engine more realistic in scale I would work on the front of the block/water pump area to more closely represent the 1:1 engine rather than the deck height.

[Aaronw]

No it is not that much of a change, but it seems easy enough to do. Mostly just one of those things I know I did even if it is trivial to another. Being able to say I modified it instead of just calling the 361 a 413.

I'm also starting to look at modifiying some existing kit engines to make things that never have been made (mostly some of the smaller diesel engines) and this seems like an easy way to get my feet wet.

What is wrong with the front of the block that should be changed?

[whale392]

Personally, I would add the .030" as it would be noticeable to those who know the dimensional differences.

As to the water pump/block front issue; the RB series had an embossing block on the drivers side of the block in front of the intake valley (usually covered up by coil location) that the B series didn't have. The distributor hole/casing area can use some work on ALL of the available big-blocks, and the water pump inlets to the block are off. Also, water pump detail is usually way too shallow for a real good representation (just like the 1/24th Revell/Monogram Mustang 302 blocks).

[Greg Myers]

"I would add the .030" as it would be noticeable to those who know the dimensional differences." Ahaaa, the old "calibrated eye". 383 0r 440 ?

Edited September 22, 2011 by Greg Myers

[Cato]

383.

[whale392]

383 Greg....you forgot (or just failed to quote) the REST of my post. The casting boss on the RB series engines on the drivers side front of the block.......not there in your pic. Thanks for playing though, but your point is moot on me. I have been around Mopar for too many years of my life to NOT be able to identify certain things.

Ok Greg, since you are on that subject, how can you tell a 350-early 361 from the later 361-383-400s?

[Greg Myers]

361 had a wider bore. I 've got a few years in MOPARS too.

[Aaronw]

Thanks

Since photos are appearing, any chance someone has a photo showing the embossing block on the RB that Bradley mentioned?

[whale392]

Wider bore? Really, as in? What, more space between the cylinder bores? Hmm....so did the 350. What I was getting at Greg, externally, how do you tell? Let me know what your 'calibrated eye' can pick up on (I will give you a hint: it has something to do with the heads).

Nice 69 Charger by the way. That would be either the 383 or 440, as the 361 was gone by then and the 400 hadn't come into the picture yet.

Edited September 23, 2011 by whale392

[High octane]

361 had a wider bore. I 've got a few years in MOPARS too.

What a "stunning" lookin' Charger Greg, REALLY nice!

[Chuck Most]

So I'm under the impression I can do this simply by adding a shim made from 0.03" plastic sheet under the engine heads. Do I also need to build up the area between the heads?

Am I barking up the wrong tree completely?

Thanks

It wouldn't hurt, but I seriously doubt anyone would notice this. Personally I'd focus more of my efforts on the more visible aspects. I really don't think anyone would even notice the difference in scale widths unless they had a caliper handy.

[whale392]

Paul, you are correct on the valve cover bolts and the freeze plug location! As to the bellhousing; as far as I have seen/know, the bellhousing ridge/mating surface is the same as all of its' later big-block brothers.