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Posted

I could be wrong, but if you are going to go with Steel Rotors you may want to take that flange off of the Hub. I don't know of any steel rotors that use a flange mount up, they would be more of a 5, 7 or 8 bolt set up. They would be more like how Chris has his on his Vega build, since you have a lathe you can turn that flange off pretty easy.

Bart: I have acctually seen the steel brakes both ways, but they do have less bolts. Also seen them drilled or just slotted. Allthough they may be older from years ago, I'm not 100% sure.

Posted

Yes they do have steel rotors with flanges and 10 bolts on race cars. When I built 1:1 race cars ending around 2000 most of the door cars that left the shop were that way. The rotors were scalped on the inside but on a model this will not be seen. Most of the ones that had 5 bolts were street car setups. As far as drilled or slotted they both let the gas out fine on a drag car. Joe don't order the bolts I will send you some the wheels look great sanded with the 1000 grit.

Posted

Made a battery,try and holdown, obviously there will be hardware during final assembley. Might make the hold down a tad smaller, Just got some more stuff in from RB motion so i can work on the 4 link and rear some more. Still looking for some small rod for the 4 link.

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Posted

Started messing with the 4-link, Only thing i noticed is my lower bars will not be level like they should be. Not sure where i went wrong or what could have been changed, My ride height is at 7/32" or a hair under. Not sure what a promod ride height is, It's not the end of the world and i realize it's a model but i would like to figure out what i could have changed for reference when i build the next one. It will still looking fine when it is all together. Used RB motion 1508 rod ends and 1/16 x .014 aluminum tube drilled out to fit the ends. would rather have stainless for strength but these seem to be fine.

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Posted (edited)

joe, it looks great!. i wouldn't sweat the lower bar bar issue. there's like 4 people who would know really what they're looking at. if you want to know where the problem lies, the frame 4 link mounts are low on the chassis. pro mods run an extremely low ride height. or you could move the lower bars up 2 holes. also as an fyi. pro mod 4 link bars are 1 3/8" - 1 1/2" o.d. so, your lower bars could be .0937 or 3/32" dia. tubing. still looks great to me!!

oh, and you could move your upper bar down a a hole or so. looks like your i.c. could be a touch long.

Edited by comp1839
Posted

joe, it looks great!. i wouldn't sweat the lower bar bar issue. there's like 4 people who would know really what they're looking at. if you want to know where the problem lies, the frame 4 link mounts are low on the chassis. pro mods run an extremely low ride height. or you could move the lower bars up 2 holes. also as an fyi. pro mod 4 link bars are 1 3/8" - 1 1/2" o.d. so, your lower bars could be .0937 or 3/32" dia. tubing. still looks great to me!!

oh, and you could move your upper bar down a a hole or so. looks like your i.c. could be a touch long.

Thx. Dave

So basically i should have had my Holes up higher on the brackets? That's what i was kind of figuring. Guess i'm just being to picky to an extent, making notes for next build. So do they usually run small Dia. upper bars and bigger lowers? i.c. a touch long? not following you on this lol.

Looks pretty dogone good to me.... ;)

Thx Dude :D

Posted (edited)

no problem joe. typically the uppers and lowers are the same o.d.. it's just they vary from builder to builder. right now, bigger is better.

i.c. is" instant center". it's the point where the bars would intersect if you continued the invisible centerline of each bar out in front until they intersect.

sorry , i just notice i wrote "lower bars". should be just "bars".

Edited by comp1839
Posted

Joe... Beautiful work on the rearend of the chassis. This is sure taking shape and looking great. Loving the progress you are making. Keep up the awesome work.

Posted

Looking Good Joe! I am very embarrassed that you are so much further along than I could ever be, you are just plugging right along.

I do have a question, since I am not any sort of familiar with racing and building 1:1 cars. On the 4Link bracket on the rear axle. Now is it suppose to be clocked forward to the top slightly tip forward? Or should it run straight up and down like you have it?

I have been calculating mine to clock forward so the rear shocks will mount up to the bottom bracket on the back side of the 4 Link. Is this wrong?

Maybe Dave can shed some more light on this as well. :)

Posted

Thanks Joe, the only thing that I see is just the picture of the shocks (Week 33). You are right, the shocks should mount Vertically, sorry if I confused things. My question is more around the mounting of the 4Link bracket to the axle housing and the picture doesn't show it very well.

I want to say I recall seeing pictures of it clocked forward, but this would make the lower links longer and the top ones shorter. I think you said they should be the same length?

Right now the issue I see with your rear end, and mine as well if mounted this way would be the shock body hitting the 4link bracket before it would mount up with the bottom hole mount that you have a bolt through. So by clocking the bracket forward the shock body will miss the bracket and mount up like it should. Unless...... here is the "BUT", unless I am way off and the shock doesn't mount where I am thinking it should. Then this would solve my dilemma.

Hummmmm... :huh:

Posted (edited)

the 4 link mounts on the rear can actually be mounted both ways, joe. the lower holes can run parallel to the face of the rear or they can be installed with a top forward tilt. it depends on the builder, his philosophy on suspension geometry, and horsepower.

here is a rear housing with the holes parallel to the face.

015-3.jpg

here you can see a rear with the forward tilt of the bolt centerlines.

057-1.jpg

hope this helps.

Edited by comp1839
Posted

that's a jerry bickel 4 link setup. they been using these for at least 8 years. first ime i saw it was 2004 e-town on bob benza's pro stock. the plates on the front move up and down and flip around to achieve a monumental amout of instant centers.

Posted

Thx. Dave and Derrick.

Built my wishbone today, still needs some small parts added and smoothing and finishing. Was really hard to work with these small parts but i got it done, happy so far with the way it turned out.

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