Panel scribers.

[modelercarl]

I just got a panel scriber from Micro-Mark and need some tips on achieving straight lines on curved surfaces.

I am building a '70 Pontiac station wagon by using the styrene front clip from the '70 Pontiac Bonneville/speedboat kit from Model King and a '65 resin Pontiac sta. wagon body from R&R resin. I have made the saw cuts and epoxied these two parts together (the match came out perfect!) and am now removing and adding features on the body to replicate a '70 model year. One of the problems I encountered on the resin body was that the door panel lines are not very well defined.

I have practiced using the scriber on flat syrene sheet stock and with a steel straight edge as a guide it is no problem getting a good scribed line. I tried scribing on the curved surface of a scrap styrene body and can't get a good straight line without a guide. I tried using various masking tapes but the scriber would actually lift or move the tape edge.....no good.

I fooled around with a scrap resin body also and noticed it is even more difficult as the tool really seems to "wander". Is resin more difficult because of some inconsistency in the material after curing?

Any help is greatly appreciated..

[Jantrix]

Buy a yard sale sign (styrene) and make an template of your curve on a piece of it, tape it to the model and use it as your guide.

[Dr. Cranky]

It's a good tool to have, that's for sure.

[Agent G]

There's a couple of different ways to accomplish this.

Label maker tape sticks tight, is wide enough to stay in place and is thick enough to guide the scriber. Good for straight lines not so cool for curves unless cut.

I have a cheapo circle template I picked up at one of the office supply stores. Darn near every circle can be used as a guide for a scriber or to make a template out of something like label tape.

There are dedicated PE templates aircraft and armor modelers used just for scribing on irregular surfaces and creating patterns. I don't have any, I usually just wing it. Try Micro Scale's catalog.

Look around the work bench/kitchen/kid's toys etc etc etc I bet ya there's something can be found to use as a guide.

G

Edited October 18, 2011 by Agent G

[Erik Smith]

I have a difficult time keeping lines straight as well. I found that I was applying too much pressure to the scriber - I reduced the pressure and now just do it in very light scratches numerous times and, while still not perfect, the scribed lines look better.

Also, with light scribing, masking tape is less likely to pull up or move as it is just there to guide and not really hold the tool in place.

[Mike Kucaba]

Try a putting a cut-off straight pin in a pin vise and start the line with that. Using light pressure is also a good tip,and so is the label tape(think old style dymo labeler).For curves,the circle template is good too.The edges of credit cards have some nice rounded edges and you can cut them up to get in odd places.

[Steven Zimmerman]

I do a lot of scribing on the masters I make for resin casters, and this is what works (for me ) I use automotive pinstriping tape to lay out my guide lines, and burnish it down, sometimes I put down 2 0r 3 thicknesses of tape.I scribe with my good old exacto knife, starting LIGHTLY with the SHARP part of the blade to get a good 'guide' groove'dragging' the blade at a shallow angle. Then with the BACK of the POINT of the blade until reaching the desired depth...TAKE your time, go LIGHTLY.BE PATIENT! I save all my blades with broken points and use them to adjust the width of the panel lines. The corners will be your worst enemy, all I can say is PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. You WILL make mistakes,do not try filling them in with modelling putty, or automotive spot putty, use a good two part filler, and rescribe your lines while it has just set up firm, but not totally hard be sure to 'work' the panel edges with 400 grit sandpaper, 'Real' panels do not have a sharp edge to them but are slightly bevelled (Go check your 1/1 car door edges ) . One of my 'pet peeves' is when I see a really nice resin casting with crooked, shallow,or erratic panel/door/hood/trunk lines....Steve Zimmerman

[modelercarl]

Thanks for the feedback guys....I have practiced some more and have found that using a lighter touch improves the ability to scribe more accurate lines and I think that using some of the ideas put forth here will get me to where I want to be. Thanks again!!!

[Art Anderson]

Actually, for straight panel lines, I've had tremendous success with using an Xacto razor saw (fine tooth version) backwards, starting say, a door line on a high spot on the body side, so I can get a straight groove started, then using the back end of the razor saw to extend that straight line to wherever I need it.

Art

[Chuck Most]

Actually, for straight panel lines, I've had tremendous success with using an Xacto razor saw (fine tooth version) backwards, starting say, a door line on a high spot on the body side, so I can get a straight groove started, then using the back end of the razor saw to extend that straight line to wherever I need it.

Art

Same here. I find it easier to keep the blade straight and cut the straight line with a saw instead of using a scriber or hobby knife, even with a straight edge. Rounded corners and curves still give me fits, no matter what I try.