Painting

[skulls]

Ok, so this is a bit of a difficult question to ask but, I am having difficulty acheiving optimal results when paint any or my models, I am traditionally using spray cans (mostly testors) just due to the fact that I am concerned about getting an airbursh dur to the fact that it looks too intimidating (if that makes any sense) None the less my models are coming out "good" but not "great" I am wondering if memebers on here could maybe help assist in differant methods/ techniques on what they are using to paint, which paint they are using and any sort of finalizing (wet sanding? polishing?)

Thank you in advance

James

[clayton]

I use dupli Color auto paint(spray can) it is getting were it does cost but some time worth it. Time to time Will use Krylon the new fan tip sure is a big help.Don't use krylon primer not worth having.

[mistermodel]

I'm far from a perfct painter,but here are a few basics

Warm the cans up in some hotish water.This gives a finer spray.

Sanding between coats ,getting finer as you go especially the clear should give you fine result.

Also if using metalic dont sand the final coat till a coat of clear is on it fist.

[Jordan White]

I also use the large spray cans, usually Krylon or Rustoleum (weird huh, but the stuff works great). For primer, I just use the cheap Walmart primer (bout a buck a can, depending on location). A large thing to remember is to use thin coats. One of the large causes of bad paint jobs is thick coats that cause the paint to pool up or not stick in the corners.

[69A-CAR]

I too use a lot of spray cans. For color, I really like the Testors "one coat" lacquer paints, I wish they made them in nonmetallic colors though. I like the Tamiya sprays too, when I can get them, both of those I use over a duplicolor primer. I wet sand the primer with 600 grit, then sand and polish as needed after the clear is on.

I would say these are the most important details to me:

Clean, clean, clean, wash any and all parts to be painted and let air dry, I'm not the most patient person at times, but this is important.

What is the temp and humidity where you are painting?

Watch the thickness of your coats, heavy coats are much more prone to orange peel. Use lighter mist coats, especially on those testors enamels

Practice on some old junk cabs, and once you find what works for you, stick with it.

Mark

Edited November 9, 2011 by 69A-CAR

[Plybeep68]

One of the things i do if i plan on using a rattle can is to put it in very warm, almost hot water and let it set for about 15 minutes, Works well especially if it is an older can. Just my .02 cents worth

Edited November 11, 2011 by randallw

[mackinac359]

I use spray paint - primarily Duplicolor primers, color and clear coats along with color and clear from www.automotivetouchup.com and even use Rustoleum Crystal Clear for non-white paint jobs. I wet sand between color and clear coats and wetsand and polish the final clear coat once the clear has cured.

Tim

[kenb]

I've bought spray cans of colors that I can't get in the bottle. Sometimes I'll shoot straight from the can, but most of the time I decant it into a jar and airbrush it. Don't be intimidated by an airbrush. Once you try it you probably won't go back. You have greater control with the airbrush. Buy something cheap or used and practice on a glue bomb. Ken

[skulls]

Well I have learned alot just by the posts seeing above. I didnt know about the hot water trick with the rattle cans, that would probobly account for some of the botched paint jobs in my collection (haha). Judging by the looks of it "Duplicolor" seems to be a popular brand to be using, and well my local Canadian Tire has a huge line up of all the differant colors (not a huge fan of the price though) but definatly quite the selection.

Also a response for you Mark, the temps I usually paint in are low humitity levels, when the humidity is up I dont feel like doing anything anyway haha.

Tim, you had mentioned that you wetsand the clear, what grit are you usually starting with? Do you wetsand in stages? or just a general 2000grit for example?

Thx again for all the greatl replys everyone!

[chuckyr]

I use spray paint - primarily Duplicolor primers, color and clear coats along with color and clear from www.automotivetouchup.com and even use Rustoleum Crystal Clear for non-white paint jobs. I wet sand between color and clear coats and wetsand and polish the final clear coat once the clear has cured.

Tim

Krylon and Duplicolor offer some inexpensive accurate paints that can be used for commercial equipment models.

Krylon Farm Implement Paints

Duplicolor Engine Enamel

Duplicolor Perfect Match

Edited November 12, 2011 by chuckyr

[skulls]

Has anyone had any issuse with the Krylon paint being too thick? That is the only reason why I havnt bought any previously. But if alot of you guys are saying they work well than maybe its time I give them a shot.

[eviltwincustoms]

You can also go to some Auto Paint shops and they will mix 1:1 paint and put it in an Aerosol can. This way you can have them thin it a little more and get custom colors as well. I myself don't trust bomb paints for the fact that they are much thicker and being in a can, much more prone to inconsistent air pressure.

Like someone posted, you need to put the can in a pot of warm water to boil to raise the temp/air pressure in the spray can. This helps with two things better pressure and warm paint lays much nicer. Even on 1:1's if you warm the paint right before you go into the booth with it, it will lay down really easy.

I know you say you are intimidated with Airbrushes, but they will give you a much better end result and you have a much broader range in paints you can use. In addition to the fact that the airbrush will lay a much thinner base coat then from an spray bomb.

Edited November 12, 2011 by eviltwincustoms

[chuckyr]

Yes, airbrushes are the way to go. But they do require a bit of skill and at first, trial and error. No need to be intimidated. Do get a quality airbrush. It's worth it in the long run. I use an Iwata Eclipse.

[Truck parts]

Thanks guys, I will try my air brush again. It's been in a box for years.

[clayton]

I used Krylon paint today,it does look kinda thick but for now it has too work.

[pete3522]

i use spray cans never did the warming trick but sanding between coats is a definite and clear coating dont paint when its damp cold or windy outside i spent many hours redoing trucks cause of this

[pete3522]

i used a air brush when i built these when i was a teenager with all the advanced auto spraypaints out there you can achieve the same results if not better with a spray can

[skulls]

Hmmm, maybe it is time to pick up an airbrush kit than, any suggestions on what kind to get for an entry level person, and well I do take frequent trips down to the U.S in the Buffalo/Amhearst area so if you happen to know of any places in that area?

Also, what kind of paints can you use in the airbrush kits? I work at a GM dealership and there are new touch-up paint bottles(brush applied ones) that are being thrown out on a regular basis (aged stock, but still good) would something like that work?

[eviltwincustoms]

Hmmm, maybe it is time to pick up an airbrush kit than, any suggestions on what kind to get for an entry level person, and well I do take frequent trips down to the U.S in the Buffalo/Amhearst area so if you happen to know of any places in that area?

Also, what kind of paints can you use in the airbrush kits? I work at a GM dealership and there are new touch-up paint bottles(brush applied ones) that are being thrown out on a regular basis (aged stock, but still good) would something like that work?

I would suggest the Badger Anthem, this is what I started learning on and is very easy for beginners and takes a beating. As long as you clean it out after each color change and tear it down and clean it thoroughly, you will have it for a very long time. Now it isn't Gravity Fed, so this can be a Pro or Con, but you can purchase other bottles and connector caps to switch out paints really easy. Just run some Lacquer Thinner though it and switch to the next color (now this would be with enamel and lacquer based paints)

I plan on getting an IWATA Micron and and IWATA Eclipse G Series gun for larger area's for my 1/18 and 1/16 scale models.

As for your touch up paints, they are way to thick, you would need to buy some reducer and thin that stuff down. Another thing I wouldn't use the touch up that has the clear mixed into the paint. If you use the Lacquer based touch up kits they are much easier because you then have to spray clear over it.

For paints, I purchase from "Coast Airbrush.com" they have different paints Lacquer and Acrylic "Auto Air" stuff and anything you would need to tape, sand prep... They are very friendly and great customer service.

Edited November 14, 2011 by eviltwincustoms

[mr cheap]

pawn shops for a cheap stuff //what ab do you have // im a badger 150 ebay 25.00 /// paint ebay less than 1/2 price /// but its old get a paint shaker ie jewer cleaner and fillter with pantie hose // it takes a little longer but hey $2.00 vs 50.00// any info you need is here on this forum