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Posted

I've had a hankering lately to go with shiny again. I know, I know, it's useless sometimes to pretend I am not a rust junkie, but you guys on this forum are always inspiring me with your shiny builds, in particular those of you doing 70s style paint jobs . . .

So, I've got these two puppies in the works. I will let you decided which you think is "Beauty" and which "Beast"

If all goes well I would like to finish them before the year is out, starting with the VW bug which is the curbside and doesn't really have too many parts . . .

I'm sure you will be kind enough to tell me what you think.

Cheers, Doctor Cranky

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Posted

Thanks, Silken! Yeah, it's got some basecoat work on there, including some cheesecloth texture, waterdrop effect, very subtle, lots of flakes, and three different kinds of candies, not to mention some of the Jacquard Pearl EX effects . . . in the sun this thing bursts with all kinds of BLING.

Posted

Yes, Derrick, it's my usual DuPont Acrylic Spot Clear. The price has gone up on these tall cans (usually I can get about 4 bodies cleared with one can) and they are hard to find, but you have to keep trolling the internet.

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Posted

The Bug is from Hasagawa. And yes, this is what I use for a clear. I apply about 3 light coats, and then 3-5 heavy ones . . . and most of the time I don't have to cut or buff at all. What you get is what you see.

Posted

Of course, the price on this clear has gone up to almost 18 dollars per can, but it does do a wonderful job. I use this clear for both Auto Air Colors and House of Colors, or Duplicolor paint jobs.

Posted

Hey Doc guess what?! I found that clear! Well, my wife did! I bought two cans, just to try it. Do you decant it or shoot from the can? I'm gonna check it out on my next body! Will this also go over Tamiya paint? I see it works over HOK, that's what I have a majority of,well Tamiya too. I'll post when I get one body done, thanks again Doc!! ;)

Posted

The Bug is from Hasagawa. And yes, this is what I use for a clear. I apply about 3 light coats, and then 3-5 heavy ones . . . and most of the time I don't have to cut or buff at all. What you get is what you see.

Thanks for the info!

Posted

Derrick, good you found it. I use it straight from the can. I would say test it on a spoon over Tamiya first just to make sure. I only use this over Auto Air Color and HOK.

Let me know how it goes, post your results.

Posted

I'm going to be watching this V Dub come together, I have the same kit and am very interested as to how well it builds... Love the excellent paint work on them both but, that Dub is AMAZING!!!

Posted

Derrick, good you found it. I use it straight from the can. I would say test it on a spoon over Tamiya first just to make sure. I only use this over Auto Air Color and HOK.

Let me know how it goes, post your results.

Thanks Doc, will do!!

Posted (edited)

Yes, Derrick, it's my usual DuPont Acrylic Spot Clear. The price has gone up on these tall cans (usually I can get about 4 bodies cleared with one can) and they are hard to find, but you have to keep trolling the internet.

Why not buy a qt. of clear and the hardener for it? In the long run, It's got to be cheaper than spray cans. You can't control the pattern or pressure with a spray can and most of the paint winds up in the air, not on the model.

Edited by Psychographic
Posted

David, way back when I started I mixed in some HOK clear and hardener and ruined an airbrush. It was my fault in that I didn't clean the airbrush as well as I should have, but since then I've been hesitant to do that . . .

Posted

A hard lesson to learn, that's how I lost my Paasche airbrush (and then switched to Iwata, which was fine) but again not the product, not the tool's fault.

All my fault.

As a matter of fact, I've been meaning to try it again, and then really clean up the AB after I'm done.

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