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Posted (edited)

Used the new kit, dropped the front even more by raising the front spring mount with the drop axle. The rear was done the same...axle now is almost on the rails, A notch would be done in 1:1 for a little more comfort....The Side pods were blended and filled, almost done, Think that Ardun is going to have to be stuffed in.....looks like a bunch of mold lines will need to go away before the chassis and suspensions get paint and details

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Edited by MikeMc
Posted

Well Nick, Mr Yost has been givin me a hard time since I bought his DVD a while back. So this one is going to be a boyds green with a lot of pearl ex...yeh it"s going to be Enamel!!!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

OK back to it....finished the frame and suspension, motor is close to finished Fit the motor to the inner fenders, bit tight, but with the battery in the trunk it fits. Went with a different set of carbs...off the 29 flattie if I remember....Now to finish smoothing those inner fenders and clean up the rear bumper ares....

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Posted (edited)

Hey, wait just a doggone second here! A stock Chevy Stovebolt had the ponies, and DEFINITELY the torque, on a Ford flattie, and a modded Chevy would have the legs on an equally modded flathead. Let's get our facts straight here. Total cylinders, and the hype that goes along with them, don't mean squat in the real world! Overhead valves, which the Chevy straight-6 had at it's debut in 1929, made all the difference over Ford's flathead design, which was already outdated when it came out in 1932.

The bottom line: Chevys were faster then, and they're still faster today. End of story.

(But your model still looks great! I like where you're going with the body! I'm a real fan of "Fadeaway" fenders. :))

Edited by CorvairJim
Posted

Not faster. Quicker, maybe- but once a Ford was up to speed, ain't no way a Chev is touching it. (And we aren't even gonna get into gear ratio differences, etc.) :P

Stovebolts were pretty good marine engines, though. My uncle had one in his boat. Says it was the best anchor he ever had. :lol:

Posted

Didn't know of any Ardun headed stovebolts....

  On 2/26/2012 at 4:12 AM, jaymcminn said:

Great work so far, Mike. Needs a bigger motor, though.

Then a SOHC might fit.....mighty tall though

Posted

When I get around to building mine, I have the RMCoM Ardun heads and the SCoT blower waiting for it. It's probably not going to have a hood. It's nice to see that you can actually shoehorn the Ardun motor in there!

Posted (edited)
  On 2/26/2012 at 4:19 AM, jaymcminn said:

When I get around to building mine, I have the RMCoM Ardun heads and the SCoT blower waiting for it. It's probably not going to have a hood. It's nice to see that you can actually shoehorn the Ardun motor in there!

only issues were the inner fender and battery,and the stock driveshaft was a bit long. I did trim and lower the motormounts for the headers to clear the suspension.

The scot blower should look bitchin with those heads!

Edited by MikeMc
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
  On 2/26/2012 at 2:17 AM, CorvairJim said:

Hey, wait just a doggone second here! A stock Chevy Stovebolt had the ponies, and DEFINITELY the torque, on a Ford flattie, and a modded Chevy would have the legs on an equally modded flathead. Let's get our facts straight here. Total cylinders, and the hype that goes along with them, don't mean squat in the real world! Overhead valves, which the Chevy straight-6 had at it's debut in 1929, made all the difference over Ford's flathead design, which was already outdated when it came out in 1932.

The bottom line: Chevys were faster then, and they're still faster today. End of story.

(But your model still looks great! I like where you're going with the body! I'm a real fan of "Fadeaway" fenders. :))

one of those little "Stovebolts" with a 270 Jimmy would eat that baby for lunch.

Posted (edited)
  On 3/9/2012 at 12:42 PM, plowboy said:

The only thing Chevies eat is oil in great consumptions. :P Mike,how much work would it be to Z the frame in the rear to drop it down more? I want one of these kits,but I definitely want the rear down a few more scale inches.

That would not be any issue....a C in the rails will give you all you need..You will flip the rear crossmember over I assume?

Edited by MikeMc
Posted (edited)
  On 3/10/2012 at 12:18 AM, plowboy said:

Don't know yet Mike. Don't have the kit yet. I may just scratchbuild a rear spring with less arch.

I don't think that will get you lower....my rear axle is just off the frame.....stock arch, I moved the spring up.

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Edited by MikeMc
  • 4 weeks later...

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