Die Cast Opinions

[Harry P.]

I think people have a problem with them due to the fact that most come pre painted and finished...you dont see a lot of snap kits on this site. not to say there are none, just not alot. I bet if you started a post with a raw "die cast" kit that you had to take some files and drum sanders too before any paint work, you would hear some different songs from people.

You're right, most diecasts are sold as finished models, not as kits to be assembled, so model builders see them as not being "legitimate" models. People confuse the term "model" and "model kit."

But of course they are models. They're just not model kits (at least most of them), but they are models. And if you take a diecast and disassemble it and rework it, you're building a model just as much as if you were building any plastic kit.

[moparmagiclives]

People confuse the term "model" and "model kit."

True story.

[Agent G]

I think a root of the "problem" stems from when they are entered in contests. A lot generalizing here to keep it simple:

Some of the die-cast builders come from a customizers background, so modified die-casts may be viewed by some modeler as "big Hot Wheels" or "toys".

Other die-casts I have seen that were "modified" still wore the factory paint and detail work. That is not a level playing field in competition.

Once a die-cast is disassembeled it is a kit, or worse, (we just went through this discussion in the Ferrari thread). But many modified die-cast models do not get fully reworked. So there may be some issues of what is factory built and what is modeler built.

Are they still models? Yes. Just like snap kits build into models.

I agree.

The same can be said for any plastic kit on which we work our own form of magic.

G

[imatt88]

You tell 'em Harry! They are all models!

I would be all for a seperate section for diecast MODELS, because. like Chris mentioned, it would help browsing a specific item.

I happen to have quite a few 1/18th scale diecast cars in my collection of models. I also enjoy "how-to" articles on how to improve die cast models to make them more accurate..

In a lot of cases, its the only way to get a certain vehicle into your collection..i.e my 1/18th Tucker Torpedo

Cheers, Ian

[paul alflen]

HARRY AND GREG , HOW ABOUT A DIE CAST SECTION? 3-PARTS- NEW DIECAST REVIEWS, ALTERED DIECAST,AND DIECAST WANTED( INCLUDES PARTS WANTED). I PASSED UP A 1/18TH 1968 CHARGER IN BLACK AND THE ANTIQUE STORE BECAUSE IT WAS MISSING FRONT AND REAR CHROME!! IF THERE WAS A WANTED SECTION FOR DIE CASTS , I WOULD PUT OUT A WANTED THREAD FOR THE CHROME!

[sjordan2]

Bburago issued a number of their diecasts in kit form, which is nice because their diecasts are accurate enough but have plenty of room for improvement. They're somewhat intimidating though, since they require some difficult (for me) body work. Everything else is plastic. I have their 1:24 Bugatti Atlantic and 1:18 (closer to 1/15) Bugatti T59 Grand Prix kits. I really wish I could get those bodies cast in resin. I checked with Ma's resin, and while their prices weren't sky-high, it's too much for my budget.

Edited February 1, 2012 by sjordan2

[Jon Cole]

First thing with 1/25+ diecasts, get rid of those toy like, way oversized hinges! I would rather re-fab them, or better yet, just glue the doors shut.

[Eshaver]

Harry makes an excellent point as to some of the Die casts looking "Toyish". With that in mind , Harry also continues to reinforce his arguments with the Mints versions of models we have all seen . Now not everyone here has disposable income to allow for such models in their collection . Then too, Look at Masitio, a big wholesaler of inexpensive and halfway decent looking cars and trucks . For the most part , most of their stuff is havable , ( My version ). No one but them has done the Dodge Diplimats s far as I know .

As far as me buying a Diecast over a styereene kit , only if it can not be purchaced first as a plastic kit . Ed Shaver

[Harry P.]

Yeah, most low-end diecasts have those goofy and incredibly out of scale and unrealistic hinges. The better quality diecasts (as in more $$$) have more realistic hinges.

[dptydawg]

Over the years I have aquired several 1/25th scale diecasts. Most are of subject material that is only available as a diecast. I much prefer to build my own models from plastic kits though. I've a collection of many of the SpeCast and First Gear bulldozers. Since I like construction models, its either buy diecast or scratchbuild your own. I do both. A model is a model is a model regardless of the medium its built with.

Some of my diecasts have been modified and or improved upon.

The '53 Jeep was a Liberty Classics diecast promo bank for Canadian Tire. I replaced the diecast flatbed with a new styrene one. The running gear is from a Revell CJ7 kit. The Meyers plow is scratch built.

I also cut open and hinged the hood and installed a slant six power plant

and a Cherry Bomb muffler.

I also tried to convert a 55 Chrysler diecast into a 55 Desoto for a friend of mine who owns a couple of the real ones but thats another long story.

thanks

Carl

[Greg Myers]

Nothing like a prepainted diecast "kit" to break a building slump.Quick, easy, nice finished "kit".

[eviltwincustoms]

I think people have a problem with them due to the fact that most come pre painted and finished...you dont see a lot of snap kits on this site. not to say there are none, just not alot. I bet if you started a post with a raw "die cast" kit that you had to take some files and drum sanders too before any paint work, you would hear some different songs from people.

LOL... what like this?

I started with 3 of the Maisto 1/18 62 Bel Air Pro Rods and ended up with two cars.

My Custom 62 Bel Air 2 door wagon with single pane back glass as my puller and a 62 Pro Touring car... it has been over 5 yrs in the making because I stopped building and boxed it up in its acrylic case and forgot about it. It just needs to be detailed to high heaven. My plans are a Viper V10 in the Wagon and a Blown 572 in the Pro touring car.

Working tailgate on the wagon.

Here it is painted, I decided to do it up with the exact same colors that Boyd Coddington used on that 61 or 62 bubble top he did. When I lived in Denver Colorado, I went to the same paint shop and asked for the same colors.

This is why, when I hear someone say that Diecast is not a Model, I have to beg to differ with them because they are way off Base!

Here is my 1/64th set that I built first from 5 Hotwheels to just make 2 cars.

Edited February 1, 2012 by eviltwincustoms

[Greg Myers]

These come to mind. My thought on this is that if there is no other source for a certain subject you're good too.

[FASTBACK340]

Bart, let's discuss how you did the metal work on the die cast! Those builds look incredible...... I also love the display "tube" for the Hot Wheels!

[eviltwincustoms]

Bart, let's discuss how you did the metal work on the die cast! Those builds look incredible...... I also love the display "tube" for the Hot Wheels!

Sure we can take it off into a PM or discuss here since this is about Diecast, either way!

[FASTBACK340]

Please, share with us all!

[sjordan2]

The prebuilt and painted diecast section in the magazine is one of my favorite parts, and I see no reason why the magazine shouldn't devote a feature to the subject of building/rebuilding diecast models. Metal kits require a lot of special techniques that are different from plastic models and that would be helpful to readers, such as stripping and painting of prebuilt models, bodywork, adhesives, etc. For example, when you're dealing with most metal bodies, you can pretty much forget about #11 X-Acto blades and typical sandpapers. Are there different approaches to dealing with diecast metal vs. white metal kits and parts? These are subjects that Scale-Master and Art Anderson, among others, are very familiar with. I think this is such a complex subject that it would merit a multi-part series in the magazine, like Alex Kustov's Ferrari 275 GTB build journal.

I'm sure many of the builders on this forum can figure it out for themselves, but there's nothing like having an experienced builder in this area help people like me cut to the chase and demonstrate best practices.

Edited February 1, 2012 by sjordan2

[deja-view]

I started collecting diecasts in the mid 1990's because many of the cars I wanted were not available in plastic. Some of them I disassembled and modified just to suit my taste (like chromies/baby moons, white interior, and wiring on the '64 Impala SS vert because I knew of a classmate with one like that in high school). When good 1/12 subjects started coming out I got as many as I could of the cars I liked. They are hard to work with, being metal and having no instructions or aftermarket parts, but make good stuff to use your imagination with. I've had some of my 1/12 scale win contests years ago, and will occasionally take them just for display so others can get new ideas.

Hosted on Fotki

Hosted on Fotki

The only downside is that some of the very high quality cars have goodies we really can't make ourselves. I was part way into a 1/12 '57 Chevy convertible project in that gorgeous turqoise when Danbury Mint released theirs...fully workable top, tons of detail, and the same color combination. It took my incentive away to do it because my goal was a unique model. OTH I have been collecting LeMans winners and favorites, the latest being the AutoArt 1/18 Renown Mazda 787b. It is an exceptional presentation no matter what the medium.

Hosted on Fotki

This Viper had virtually no suspension or undercarriage detail or real engine bay detail. It now has everything the 1:1 has.

Hosted on Fotki

Hosted on Fotki

Hosted on Fotki

And a 1/18 Mercedes project with custom wheels, ghost flames, a Viper engine and custom interior I would like to finish someday:

Hosted on Fotki

So, yes...a diecast section would be great, or at least acceptance of the medium as a legitimate model that takes just as much skill to build/rework into quality pieces.

Edited February 2, 2012 by deja-view

[eviltwincustoms]

The prebuilt and painted diecast section in the magazine is one of my favorite parts, and I see no reason why the magazine shouldn't devote a feature to the subject of building/rebuilding diecast models. Metal kits require a lot of special techniques that are different from plastic models and that would be helpful to readers, such as stripping and painting of prebuilt models, bodywork, adhesives, etc. For example, when you're dealing with most metal bodies, you can pretty much forget about #11 X-Acto blades and typical sandpapers. Are there different approaches to dealing with diecast metal vs. white metal kits and parts? These are subjects that Scale-Master and Art Anderson, among others, are very familiar with. I think this is such a complex subject that it would merit a multi-part series in the magazine, like Alex Kustov's Ferrari 275 GTB build journal.

I'm sure many of the builders on this forum can figure it out for themselves, but there's nothing like having an experienced builder in this area help people like me cut to the chase and demonstrate best practices.

Not quite sure what you mean by Typical Sandpapers.... because the same automotive sandpaper used for diecast I use on my plastic models. The only difference is the GRIT you use... Of course you are not going to use 80 GRIT paper on a plastic model because you would be digging groves in the body.

There seems to be this misconception that Diecast is so much different in working with than with plastic/styrene.... this couldn't be further from the truth. The same principles apply.

All the way from body work to the final product and color sanding and buffing, you are using different courses of sandpaper to get to your final product.

As for welding the metal pieces together, Diecast can be some what delicate because with the Pop Metal you really can't "Weld" per say. I use 5 Minute Epoxy (JB Quick) to weld my two parts together and if needed I will pin the two parts with brass rod and epoxy.

All my body work is done with Automotive Bondo preferably "EverCoat Euro-soft" Polyester glazing 2 part Automotive putty. It is much easier to work with and seems to have less pin holes you have to go back and fill in. This is the same stuff I use on my Plastic Models as well and use the Tamiya green glaze putty as my final block sanding if needed.

[Scale-Master]

Bart has some good points, I'll add that I do use emery cloth in place of paper backed sandpaper since it holds up a bit better. But once it is in the primer stage, it is very much like working with styrene. I also use CA to bond and fill, but heavy duty bonding is better suited for epoxy based adhesives.

[SuperStockAndy]

Well, I would love to work in bigger scales because it would be easier to do an all-out detail build.

[Scale-Master]

The larger the scale you work in, the more things you have to detail.

[SuperStockAndy]

I know...

[sjordan2]

Makes sense that normal styrene painting techniques would follow once you've gotten to primer, but I'm concerned about the prior steps. I've heard of different types of paint strippers, such as aircraft stripper, to remove the baked-on factory paint (which I would prefer to do so detail holds up, instead of just painting over the paint). I'm told the primer should be self-etching -- any best choices?

What tools would you recommend to remove things like high-relief rivets and other exterior parts that are cast as part of the body, or to drill holes? What about chopping a top? These are considerations where I don't think an X-Acto knife or regular sandpaper would work. Is a rotary tool a good choice? If so, can you recommend the proper grinding wheels, drills or saws?

Edited February 2, 2012 by sjordan2

[eviltwincustoms]

Well, I would love to work in bigger scales because it would be easier to do an all-out detail build.

The larger the scale you work in, the more things you have to detail.

This is so true... not only Detail but more attention to the DETAIL's. A great example is if you are doing a pro mod, it isn't like 1/25 where you can fudge the dimensions and just add to the nose of the car. In the larger scale your body mods become just like in 1:1.