U.S. NAVY 1955 Chevy Step Side in the Philippines

[Edward Gore]

Thanks John, yes subtle weathering will be done.

It looks dusty and has road grime along the lower half of the whole vehicle. No battle damage or even fender bending from what I can see. My dad estimates that this was around 1957 so the truck is almost brand new.

I'm guessing at the interior and going with an almond ivory and brown.

. Progress continues with the rear window. I found a picture online that was directly behind the cab. After resizing the image it was printed to scale. From this I can cut out the shape and use this for a template, as pictured in my above previous post.

I didn't take measurements from a 1/1 pickup truck to scale from. I'm working this one visually which is the way I usually build models. If it looks right then it is, usually

the window part has a weatherstrip detail along the edge around this part that has a thickness beyond the glass

I needed to uniformly fill the 'glass window' area with a sheet of styrene cut to the correct shape. I don't know the thickness of this material, I just placed them against each other and ran my thumb over it. It felt smooth and flush so I used it.

To get the exact shape right, I burnished a piece of paper over the detail shape of the window part

Then this was penciled for better clarity. This was then cut out with scissors and transfered to the styrene sheet. Then the styrene material was cut out to the proper shape

This was then shaped over a steel block for better gluing and adhesion

Crazy clampidge while the glue set was deployed

After glue set, automotive product Body Filler was used to fill the gaps arond the 'glass window' part that this kit is famous for

[Edward Gore]

I wanted to complete this model by this weekend for a local model fest, but lots of OT at work kept me away from the bench.

The rear window body work is finished with only the window weather stripping to install.

What type and shape of material would you recommend for this?

I found the tiny chain for the tailgate support from a craft store in the jewelry beading department

thanks for looking . . .

[Dr. Cranky]

Loving the progress on this vehicle. Keep it going. Love all the attention to the small details. Great going, keep it going. Thanks.

[Agent G]

Nice, real nice!

G

[Edward Gore]

Thanks guys!

Dave - There are many many fish n' tackle shops around here. I'll look around for that material

[buskid]

This is my current kitmash project in 1/25.

This is a pre-CUCV and pre-MILCOT of a U.S. NAVY '55 Chevy Step Side Task Force Second Series.

The prototype pics are from my dad's film footage when he was enlisted.

The iSheets indicate location for these exhaust parts, but there are no holes for the pins.

I had to drill hole at 1/16" through the top side of the chassis frame part.

thanks for looking.... build continues...

Thanks for the pics. Question: which kit has the straight axle??

[jeffs396]

The rear window body work is finished with only the window weather stripping to install.

What type and shape of material would you recommend for this?

Edward, for this scratchbuilt Jeep halfcab, I glued on .010" styrene sheet that was about .020" or so LARGER than the window opening. After curing, carefully cut out the window opening, leaving behind the "rubber" moulding:

[Edward Gore]

Jeff, That looks great, man!

Really nice and consistent all around.

But the '55 I'm building has this weather stripping sort of in the frame though. I guess I can do the similar thing but with a thinner piece of strip styrene

Thanks for the pics. Question: which kit has the straight axle??

Hi Joe, The front axles are the only difference that I can see. They are both the 'U' shape but the 'Street Machine' version is deeper, therefore making the front end ride lower. I don't have a side by side comparison photo right now but if you need to see one let me know and I'll take one for you

[Longbox55]

Edward, if you need a better pic of how that rear window weatherstrip is made, let me know. I can get reference pix for just about anything on a Task Force Chevy truck, as I have a 1:1 '55 3200.

[Agent G]

How about .020 rod?

G

[Edward Gore]

Thanks for the offer, Longbox55! (ah, your user name...)

and good suggestion, Agent G

[Edward Gore]

Thanks everyone for getting at me with those various suggestions and ideasfor the rear window weather strip.

I'm going with the .025 styrene rod method that is so-far the easiest and I already have a pack here.

I'm forming the rod by bending it by hand. Then Crazy Glue (CA) in place as I go along.

I'll update soon with results if this actually worked...

Edited March 12, 2012 by Edward Gore

[Longbox55]

That looks pretty good, very close mathc for the 1:1.

Edward, I didn't forget about the pix, just waiting for nice clear day where I can get you some good ones!

[Edward Gore]

Thanks, LB. I'll be sure to get at you if I need those ref photos! cool

This material works, finally done with this part

A sharpened pencil tip was used to shape and hold each radius because of the variable corners and the porous wood material broke free easily from the CA where it touched

The lower piece at the bottom of the cab cracked free during this over handling but that's cool, it's fixable

[Edward Gore]

While I'm trying to figure out the front windshield and it's bogus fitting glass part. ... Thanks for the explanation, Raul. I'll try that

I finished the seat back detail to match the seat bottom seam part.

Sprue was stretched to the same diameter and then glued, trimmed and sanded in place

I'm now working on the windshield and will solve this

thanks for looking

[rustybill1960]

Some terriffic scratch building on this Ol '55 Man!

It is a real blast to watch a craftsman at work!

Thank You for sharing

Later

Russ

[rctruk]

Edward you are doing an incredible job. I do have a question ...how do you identify the kits with the new tooling,ie the proper door window shape?

[Raul_Perez]

While I'm trying to figure out the front windshield and it's bogus fitting glass part. ... Thanks for the explanation, Raul. I'll try that

I'm now working on the windshield and will solve this

No problem, Edward. I've done it several times on this model. It works well.

I can't tell from the pictures you've posted, but I hope that you're working with the newer AMT cab that has the correct side window shape. From the box art you posted, you're working with the old cab where the bottom edge of the side windows tapers up towards the windshield. On the corrected cabs, the bottom of the window opening is parallel with body line.

Raul

[Edward Gore]

Raul - the box art is old/ original but the cab part in my kits are the corrected version

rctruk - Thanks for the compliment.

As Raul describes, The bottom of the window frame is parallel to the bottom of the body. Visually easy to see. However, if you unable to see inside the box before purchase, then I don't know

[Raul_Perez]

Raul - the box art is old/ original but the cab part in my kits are the corrected version

rctruk - Thanks for the compliment.

As Raul describes, The bottom of the window frame is parallel to the bottom of the body. Visually easy to see. However, if you unable to see inside the box before purchase, then I don't know

Edward,

I'm glad to see that you know the difference and didn't put all that work into a cab that needs the basics fixed to look right.

rctruk,

Both the early AMT 55 stepside and Cameo pickups had incorrectly shaped side windows. AMT fixed the side windows when they released the '57 Chevy pickups. They recently reissued the 55 Cameo with the corrected cab.

You can easily see the differences in the box art.

Here's the old box art with the incorrectly shaped side window

Here's the newer box art with the correctly shaped side window

Later,

[Chariots of Fire]

For the window molding cut a piece of 0.020 sheet the same shape ss the window opening but just a bit larger so that it overlaps the opening evenly all around. Round off the outside edges. Don't bother cutting out a strip just yet. Glue the whole piece of sheet over the window opening. Then cut out the sheet leaving a small lip that is slightly smaller than the original opening. Round it off also. This will leave you a small surface to place the glass against. And it will look like the molding you are after. I use epoxy to set the window glass. Mix it up, dab a small amount around the molding lip and let it set up so that it is tacky but not stringy. Then set your window glass against it. You should not have to worry about smudges on the glass or that it would pop out later. Hope this helps.

[Longbox55]

The front glass is one of the big weak points of this kit. I've seen several fixes for this, and they do look good, however, they're not correct to the 1:1 truck (not bashing anyone's builds). The glass on the '55-'59 Chevrolet truck doesn't fit flush, but is actually recessed, especially at the top. Here's a shot of what the upper part looks like on the 1:1.

If you look on the bottom of the roof on the kit, you'll notice 2 faint lines. Placing the top of the windsheild at the that point puts it where it would be on the 1:1. You will have to add a little material to make it fit right. I'm thinking when the kit was originally tooled, the glass was supposed to go there, but it was changed for easier assembly due to the visor covering up the inaccuracy.I have not done this myself on one, but plan to do it on a '57 3800 Napco 4x4 I'm building.

BTW, the moulding should be black rubber on a base model truck. The stainless trim (as seen on mine) was optional, and was not very common. I'll try to get more pix of the windsheild up tomorrow.

Edited March 22, 2012 by Longbox55

[Longbox55]

Here's a few more shots of the front and rear window glass.

A shot of the gasket from the inside

Rear window (mine is not the stock glass)

[Ron Hamilton]

I am very impressed with your workmanship on this model. I want to see more!!!

[Dweb7321]

very nice build, I wish I had your patience when it comes to detail. I will be keeping my eye on this one