Bartster Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 I bought a piece of K & S Engineering aluminum that is .016x4x10 for $1.20. I've never incorporated metal into a build, but it seems very easy to manipulate. I can get much more. Is this a good deal? It seems very inexpensive to me, which should be good enuf. Just looking for opinions?
Jon Cole Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 Aluminum for less than the price of a cup of coffee... yeah, you did good.
Mercman Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 Another good source if you can find them are print shops. They sometimes have old plates that you can get for free. The average 12-15 in's. bu 24-30 in's.
Prostreet Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 Another good source if you can find them are print shops. They sometimes have old plates that you can get for free. The average 12-15 in's. bu 24-30 in's. Love this stuff, I work at a print shop
Bartster Posted February 4, 2012 Author Posted February 4, 2012 This old guy has an endless supply of groovy stuff. aluminum sheet,tube brass rod. Name it! All he wants is to talk. If I had a couple $100 & 3or4 hours, I could make out like a bandit. He knows it too, no problem. Except he only opens his shop when he wants to, which isn't very often. I went by there 3 times thois week; closed. I'm gonna keep tryin'.
Scott Colmer Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 (edited) Been in printing for 25 years. The plates vary in thickness. One plate can last decades. If you ask, they would probably give you one free...if they were nice. As for woking with metal, here are some tips. Most important - plan out your process. Imagine each step. Then.. 1) Create a template from paper or tape first. 2) For small parts leave a stalk or tab to hold on to while shaping. 3) Consider finishing your surface early in the process and covering it with tape while you work the piece. 4) If you goof up, you usually get to start again. 5) 5 minute Epoxy is my glue of choice. CA glue may fog your parts. Look for a copy of Ron Foriner's (sp) Metal Fabricators Hand Book. It is for full side cars, but many of the techniques apply. HAVE FUN. Scott Edited February 4, 2012 by Scott Colmer
heatride Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 Glad to see this thread because I have been giving coke cans weird looks last few days. Anyone ever use em as a overlay on firewalls and such ?
Jon Cole Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 (edited) I made a firewall from sheet aluminum, to get the indent, I used plastic glued to a block of wood. Two, actually... male & female, with a bit of a gap between so the metal could have room to bend. I sandwiched the tin between the two molds, and using a rubber mallet, I gave it a good whack! Just polish, then draw out the finished shape, and cut to fit. And that is the extent of my metal crafting. Edited February 4, 2012 by Jon Cole
Bartster Posted February 4, 2012 Author Posted February 4, 2012 Scott, Thanks for the tips. I have a Q about #3. I assume that deals with scratching? I plan 1st to try an engine bay, & if That works, the bed&sides of a pickup. Shouldn't I make all my bends 1st, & then polish?
heatride Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 Thanks for the picture Jon now I know for sure on this build I am going with something of that nature . It just has that look im after .
Bartster Posted February 4, 2012 Author Posted February 4, 2012 Jon, That's actually helpful. I envisioned bendind everything, but a nice whack(not on a puppy) could work as well in the right area.
Bartster Posted February 4, 2012 Author Posted February 4, 2012 BTW, Darby Doll, My Johnson's American Bulldog, Had 7 puppies today. 2nd one died, but 6 are going strong. And she let Maggie (Impala eater) get close & sniff 'em! Cool chick!
Kit Basher Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 Next time you see a new roof going on, stop and ask for scraps of flashing. It usually goes in the dumpster anyway. If it's a high end job you may even get copper. (Well, maybe not, with copper scrap being so high.)
Bartster Posted February 4, 2012 Author Posted February 4, 2012 Got tar coated copper flashing, just never thought of cultivating it for modelsi Excellent, thanks, Bart
Scott Colmer Posted February 4, 2012 Posted February 4, 2012 (edited) Scott, Thanks for the tips. I have a Q about #3. I assume that deals with scratching? I plan 1st to try an engine bay, & if That works, the bed&sides of a pickup. Shouldn't I make all my bends 1st, & then polish? Bart, That is correct about scratching. I like how you are already working the project in your mind. If the piece is large enough or sturdy enough then you can polish after. If you are going to polish panels after bends, be careful not to catch and lift and edge. If you are hand polishing I would consider using a flat surface as backing to avoid reshaping your work. FYI - I have always preferred Semichrome polish. It comes in a yellow and pink container. I follow that with a few coats of Turtle wax to try to hold the shine. I look forward to seeing your creations. Excellent firewall, Jon. Scott Edited February 4, 2012 by Scott Colmer
Bartster Posted February 4, 2012 Author Posted February 4, 2012 Can I PM you? I like what I'm hearing, just not sure I get it all?
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