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Screwed up paint job/ orange peel?


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Ok, so i screwed up the paint job on the Texas DSP Impala and i really don't want to repaint the Florida HP monaco.

So i painted like i should have (or so i thought). Primer, light mist coat, light mist coat again. Next day wet coat, waited one more day then wet sanded from 3600 all the way to 12000, put on some meguiars ultimate compound then added meg's scratch x 2.0 (not a great shine but it was something) added another wet coat after this. Waited a few days and then hit it with Krylon gloss clear coat(same as the blk & wht paint i used) and this is were my project went wrong. It started to dry dull in area's, so i did another wet sand and hit it with another wet coat of clear.

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Seemed to come out fine at first but not really sure what happened....When i did the wet sand everytime it always leaves it dull looking and the guy (who i really don't care to talk to anymore) said that i should keep sanding until i see it become clear. I never did that because i thought i was sanding all day.

Then i noticed the paint on the hood cracking/raising up after the second clear coat.

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What in the world did i do wrong? I didn't wetsand my first model i did a few weeks ago and the clear coat came out fine :(

Also here is my FSP car. Is texture that they call orange peel? I sprayed once then wetsanded and put another wet coat over it and it's pretty smooth. I'm really liking this car so far but i don't want to mess it up any further. I was hoping maybe i could put it one of our local shows whenever it comes around again.

Thanks for any help in advance...Earle

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Earle, after primer I usually let it "gas out" a day or so and wet sand the primer coat lightly w/ 1000 grit. Then I "tack" the body and spray a light coat or color, another light coat of color twenty minutes later, and then a wet coat twenty minutes after that. I then let it "gas out" for a day or so and then shoot clear starting w/ two mist coats twenty minutes apart and then a wet coat after another twenty minutes. I'll then let the clear "gas out" for a couple of weeks before polishing out the clear coat w/ 4,000 to 12,000 grits. After that you can put anything you want on top of that or nothing at all.

Sounds like you didn't wait long enough before polishing and then you used a compound and then sprayed over that which is a no-no as you can't spray over compounds, polishes, or waxes. I hope this helps.

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HO, thanks for the comments. SO when you wet sand does it always look "dull & ashy"? I rinse the car real good and give it lots of time to dry but after it still looks dull, like the Implala looks in the top pics but on the full body.

So if i spray clear coat on the monaco as it stands right now as you say, then wet sand..will that get rid of that "texture" look i have right now?

Thanks again Earle

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I had the same thing happen with Krystal Klear and have never used it since. The body I sprayed it on had dried for 5 days and as soon as I sprayed the Klear on, the model took on a dull finish like you described and the paint started to crack and lift before my eyes.

I've switched to testor's wet look clear and model master clear through my airbrush with zero problems.

Also, yes, that's orange peel.

Edited by rhs856
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I`ve found that Krylon crystal clear is terrible for drying into heavy orange peel. It seems that no matter how smooth and wet you lay it down when it dries there is heavy orange peel.

Use the Testors like RHS suggested or Dupli-color clear enamel and you will be left with a shiny coat that is quite smooth.

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Earle, I usually paint with Testors lacquers and when I wet sand the clear coat it will look a bit dull with using the 4,000, 6,000, and 8,000 grits and after I use the 12,000 grit I can just rub the body with a flannel or cotton cloth and it will be shiny without using any compounds, polishes, or waxes.

It looks like you have way to much orange peel on that Monaco and it will still show through a few clearcoats. You could try and polish out (wet sand) the body before adding the clear coat or you may just have to strip the paint entirely and start over. I'm told that orange peel occurs when one is spraying to far away from the body.

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This is good reading, Earle: http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=35

FWIW, all polishing kit does is make progressively finer (read smaller) scratches in the paint, until you get to the point where the human eye can no longer see the scratches. The smoother you can get the basecoats, the better, but you still need to leave something for the final coat(s) to grab onto. I would not go finer than 3,000 grit if you still need to apply color or clear coats, and IMHO no polish of any sort should be added until you are finished painting for good.

The polishing cloths will make the paint appear dull, but the trick is to not let your eye be fooled by the sheen. Instead, train your eyes to see how even and flat the painted surface is becoming. If you use the polishing cloths correctly, by the time you reach the 8,000 grit (or thereabouts), you will start to see an increase in gloss. Now, this is all assuming you started with the correct grit. If you start with too fine a grit, you will never properly level the surface and you will need to go back and start with a coarser grit cloth.

I won't lie- it takes practice to use polishing cloths, but the results speak for themselves. Even after you've used them and become proficient at polishing, you will probably still sand through in a few areas, or leave a few areas not as well polished as you'd have liked. The perfectly polished paint job is rarely, if ever seen, but that doesn't keep us from trying. ;)

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