Old Sprinter Posted February 16, 2012 Posted February 16, 2012 I can build almost anything but paint it, I'm horrible at it. Masking is the biggest challenge. How do you prevent or get the adhesive off that the tape leaves? I always get a little over spray somewhere so is there a tape that's better than another or what's the key? Last thing is how many coats and do you use clear (what kind) at the end? I rattle can the big stuff and brush the small stuff so I don't own an airbrush yet. I have been doing this scratch building model thing for a little over a year now and haven't learned how to paint correctly. Thanks Ken
heatride Posted February 16, 2012 Posted February 16, 2012 Ken check Donn's site out in the link below. His DVD on painting will save you a lot of crying . It works and makes painting fun . http://www.oldmansmodels.com/
Dr. Cranky Posted February 16, 2012 Posted February 16, 2012 Ken, the idea is you have to start somewhere. We all have. Read up as much as you can and watch Donn Yost's DVDs and start out with a couple of scrap bodies and just start the way we all did with the rattle cans . . . once you get your stroke and rhythm going, your confidence and practice will start getting you some reliable and constant results. Whatever you do, don't get frustrated. If you start to feel worked up, just walk away for a little bit and come back and start again.
weasel Posted February 16, 2012 Posted February 16, 2012 i use 3M fineline a lot... Tamiya tapes are excellent and don't/won't leave any residue behind, make sure you burnish ALL the taped edges before you apply any paint... paint prep is verrrrrrrry important, the more time spent here shows in the final product as for 'coats' depends what 'shade' you want... darker, more paint...at least 3-4 clearcoats allows you to polish w/out 'burning' theu to the paint... as long as you don't put lacquer over enamel you're ok.... lacquer is easier to work with[for me] than enamel[takes to long to dry] and yeah, check out Donn's site to, lots of gooood stuf...
Rob McKee Posted February 16, 2012 Posted February 16, 2012 There is also many threads on here that can help. Make sure you get a good paint which is compatible with plastics, always prime, mist on a few color coats, then a nice wet coat, allow plenty of drying time before you mask, use a good masking tape (I like tamiya), and a good clear coat. When you get the hang of it you'll never look back. I sure have room to improve but I am happy I can paint without to many issues. Rob
BKcustoms Posted February 16, 2012 Posted February 16, 2012 I would recommend "killing" the tape by sticking it to your shirt before putting it on to mask if you are getting residue from it. And for clear, 2-3 coats of 2 part urethane (I use Nason brand) clear will give you an almost mirror finish without any polishing. And if you have a piece of dirt in the finish it will polish out with 3,000 grit paper and some rubbing compound.
randx0 Posted February 16, 2012 Posted February 16, 2012 tape shouldn't be leaving residue if it is get some better quality tape . The paint job isn't really a place to skimp on or try to get done on the cheap. as for getting the paint not to bleed try spraying it down with clear before the second color goes on . try practicing on junk parts just until you get the hang of it.
randx0 Posted February 16, 2012 Posted February 16, 2012 Tamiya makes good tape but for more generally available tape the 3m blue tape works well I like the low tack with the orange label. don't waste your money on frog tape as the paint blocking traits are for waterbased paint. also I would recommend using only lacquer paints if using spray cans. an airbrush can open up a whole new world though
Dr. Cranky Posted February 16, 2012 Posted February 16, 2012 Ken, there's probably quite a bit written about how to use rattle cans for painting not only here, but on the web. I know Pat Covert has a wonderful chapter in his latest book about getting started with spray paints.
XJ6 Posted February 16, 2012 Posted February 16, 2012 I would recommend "killing" the tape by sticking it to your shirt before putting it on to mask if you are getting residue from it. And for clear, 2-3 coats of 2 part urethane (I use Nason brand) clear will give you an almost mirror finish without any polishing. And if you have a piece of dirt in the finish it will polish out with 3,000 grit paper and some rubbing compound. I would think putting tape on your shirt...would pick-up "lint" therefore you would be applying lint to you prized model...just a thought...perhaps i could be wrong... Cheers .....
PARTSMARTY Posted February 16, 2012 Posted February 16, 2012 For really nice lines without any problems when taking it off-i use tamiya.take your time,don't rush.patience and being very careful pays off.
crazyjim Posted February 16, 2012 Posted February 16, 2012 I use only Tamiya (however you say it) tape. You lay a strip down on a clean piece of glass and make narrow cuts to get finer lines.
LoneWolf15 Posted February 16, 2012 Posted February 16, 2012 I would think putting tape on your shirt...would pick-up "lint" therefore you would be applying lint to you prized model...just a thought...perhaps i could be wrong... Cheers ..... Ahhhh ! Common sense has raised it's ugly head again ! Lol ! My sentiments , exactly !
scalenut Posted February 17, 2012 Posted February 17, 2012 (edited) use good low tack tape , don't stick it to your forehead, forearm ,shirt, jeans ... your asking for bleed under problems Edited February 17, 2012 by scalenut
The70judgeman Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 I was the same way, except I'd build a model up to the point where I'd have to paint the body. That's where LOTS of models ended, because I dreaded the terrible paint job I knew I'd end up with. So, then I'd go onto the next model and the same thing...over and over. Well...there's only one way to get any better. Read about what others do, watch them(videos), and practice, practice, practice. It's the only way to learn. I've only recently started using an airbrush for finish painting, and I have NOTHING worth showing anyone. I'm still working on it. Lots of practice ahead for me. Plus, I've just started in the last year or two with masking-off for details or two-tones. I use Tamiya. it doesn't leave a sticky residue and comes off clean. It's a little expensive, but worth not having the headaches after.
martinfan5 Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 Why is that almost everytime time someone asks a painting question, most of the answer's are get Donn's DVD?, are you guys getting kick backs from Donn? . What I keep reading I understand its a really good DVD to learn from, but not everyone wants to buy a how to DVD for $30. Ken, I did a lot of searching thru google and I learned a lot that way, try youtube as well. Going to try and answer some of your questions I cant help with masking as I still have my own issues's. You want to start out with a few mist coats, just enough to cover the body with paint, dont try and cover the entire body on the first mist coat, about three is good. Then you can do the wet coats, one, maybe two. As for clear coats, it just depends, I like using testor's one coat( takes more then one), or model mast clear lacquer, you can use almost any clear coat you want , I like many use furture floor polish as a clear coat as well. Now of course I did not go in to detail, but you also want to make sure that you have a good primer, use an automotive primer, I use duplicolor, make sure you use 1000-2000 grit paper to get a nice smooth surface before you lay down your paint. Dont try to get the perfect paint job outa of a can, its hard.
LoneWolf15 Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 The DVD is $ 20 . The reason most people suggest it ? Quite possibly because it helped them out ! It's not the only method out there , that's for sure. It is , however , the only one out there that is concise and to the point when it starts at point A and takes you all the way to Z for a great finish ! Contrary to popular belief , it's not just for airbrush either . If a spray can fanatic followed all of the steps up to using the airbrush step , skipped that segment and finished at the polish out segment , their paintwork would improve dramatically too . People will spend hundreds on kits but won't spend $ 20 or $ 30 on a book or a DVD , the same goes for the tools and supplies . Makes no sense whatsoever to me , but , to each their own . As to my " paying " for individuals to promote the DVDs , I'd truly resent it if it were not so laughable ! If this were the case , I would have been living out of a cardboard box a long time ago . If you notice , I don't even have to open my mouth . More and more modelers paintwork is doing all my talking for me ! My method , their persistence and hard work !
martinfan5 Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 Donn, I was joking about getting kick backs, I am sorry you didnt take it that way, and I was not bad mouthing your DVD, I saw the price listed as $30 on your website a few months back And again Donn, you missed what I was saying, not everyone wants to buy a how to video, so when they ask for help on here they get buy your DVD, which is fine, but offer some suggestions as well, thats all I am trying to say. I am very sorry I offended you, it was not my intention to , and I am sorry you thought I was being serious about the kick backs, again that was a joke too, thats why I put the laughing emoticon at the end. I will take the blame for wording it the wrong way.
JunkPile Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 I'm still working way too hard on paint jobs only to achieve a meedieocre finish. I'm gonna have to get that DVD someday.
crazyjim Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 Only $20 for Donn's DVD? I thought it was more. What about the 2nd DVD, Donn? You ever going to have a sale on them?
Mooneyzs Posted February 24, 2012 Posted February 24, 2012 I use alot of ppg dbc and house of kolor base coat and ppg urathane clear on my builds for the body and far as tapes go I use 3M fine line. i used to use 3m masking blue or green from the auto body store but recently.have been using more of the Tamiya tape. I find with tamiya tape it doesnt leave as big of an edge. abother thing that I have been totally turned onto when painting bodies with multiple color is after each base coat I spray I lay down a couple coats of inner coat clear. this helps to prevent any bleeding of color as well as no residue from the tap. this stuff works great if you never have tried it.
LoneWolf15 Posted February 24, 2012 Posted February 24, 2012 Not your fault ! I apologize ! Too many hours spent getting ready for a show and not enough sleep , Kiddo! The Old Man is a bit prickly today , that's on me , not you ! This has been suggested in a far more pointed manner by others , hence my reaction ! While it is so far from being the truth , some people still might buy into it and that could cause me untold grief ! One thing you will find out , as I did , you can only do so much when explaining a method . That is the reason for the DVDs in the first place . This is a visual generation , far easier to show someone how to do something rather then try to explain it . I try to help out as much as I can on the forums and emails with the questions , but that only goes so far ! Again , I apologize for snapping at you ! The Old Man
scalenut Posted February 24, 2012 Posted February 24, 2012 I use alot of ppg dbc and house of kolor base coat and ppg urathane clear on my builds for the body and far as tapes go I use 3M fine line. i used to use 3m masking blue or green from the auto body store but recently.have been using more of the Tamiya tape. I find with tamiya tape it doesnt leave as big of an edge. abother thing that I have been totally turned onto when painting bodies with multiple color is after each base coat I spray I lay down a couple coats of inner coat clear. this helps to prevent any bleeding of color as well as no residue from the tap. this stuff works great if you never have tried it. excellent advice ..don't scrimp on tape.. get out of home depot ! and buy some darn automotive grade masking tape. !
martinfan5 Posted February 24, 2012 Posted February 24, 2012 Donn, I agree with what you said, only so much can be explained through words, the last thing I was trying to do was add to any rumors that my be going on. The last thing I want to do is to start problems on here , more so when I have no problems with something in the first place. So your DVD for airbrushing can relate to using a can correct?, I keep saying I am going to get a airbrush, and I want to learn as much as I can before trying to use it. But in the mean time, I know I have a lot to learn about getting better results from a can
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now