ZombieHunter26 Posted February 25, 2012 Posted February 25, 2012 So I'm putting this little thread up, just to see some results from everyone- I prime and spray solely with el-cheapo(or medium grade) rattlecans. I sometimes get pretty good results, but I also have my times where I get really bad results. I don't own an airbrush, nor have I ever used one. What I would like to do is get some of you to post results of your spray jobs. Shiny, rusty, I don't care, just post it up with with the prep work explained and the name of the paints you used in the process, and if it has a clear coat, what kind it was. My paint collection is all Krylon and Rustoleum sprays, and if you've seen my builds, you know what kind of finishes I end up with. What I'm hoping to achieve on this particular thread is pretty much this- A 'catalog' of sorts, where any given person who is in search of a new way to paint, a new brand, and new technique, can come here and take a look at first hand results from amateurs and pros alike. Where someone can make an informed decision based on what they're looking for finish wise. I think it'll be fun, and informative, just like we like it here!
SuperStockAndy Posted February 25, 2012 Posted February 25, 2012 Right now I prefer rattle cans. I'm still trying to learn my airbrush
Dr. Cranky Posted February 25, 2012 Posted February 25, 2012 (edited) Rob, here's my break down: For Weathered/Rusty vehicles: Primer: rattle can Plastikote (if it's not raining) or Vallejo Primer (when it's raining and I want to build) Paints: Tamiya, Floquil, Vallejo Model Air Flat Clear Medium (Liquitex, Vallejo or Golden) For Shiny/Gloss: Primer: rattle can Plastikote Paints: House of Color, Auto Air Color, or lately Enamels thinned with cheap lacquer thinner (Donn Yost's method) BLING: CLEAR FX or PEARL EX powders Clear: DuPont Spot Acrylic Clear Oh, all the paint work is done with either the Iwatas or the Paasche H if I'm using Enamels. If I end up doing two tones or paint graphics, I tend to use HOUSE OF KOLOR. Edited February 25, 2012 by Dr. Cranky
weasel Posted February 25, 2012 Posted February 25, 2012 i'm a firm believer in PlastiCote sandable primers, T235,T236,T234,T237...grey, black, red oxide and white...makes a good barrier for lacquer on plastic, is fairly thin, but covers well and sands well... although i've had an airbrush for more than 10-12 years, i think i've only used it a handfull of times, to much clean-up 'tween colors, rattlecans here also... did ya know that the different color spraytips have different spray patterns??? primer can tip when used on a color can puts out about 1 1/2 times more paint than primer...Testor clearcoat tips put out a kinda fog more than a spray...me personaly, i would rather use lacquer than enamel just for the dry time difference and i like 2tone cars...enamel needs at least a week to ten days to be ready* for 2nd color, i can do a 2 color lacquer job in a weekend... *so as not leave tape marks in the paint...
High octane Posted February 25, 2012 Posted February 25, 2012 While I have two air-brushes and a compressor, I haven't used them in years and have got by with rattle cans. I done fades and two and three tones just fine with them and they work for me. However there are MANY modelers who prefer to use an air-brush and there is a lot more things that can be done with them. I hope one day I'll pick up my air-brush and use it again, we'll see.
mikemodeler Posted February 25, 2012 Posted February 25, 2012 Right now I prefer rattle cans. I'm still trying to learn my airbrush Me too Andy! But I have made a decision to get better with the airbrush this year. I have Donn Yost's DVDs and will be watching it over and over to master his techniques.
martinfan5 Posted February 25, 2012 Posted February 25, 2012 (edited) I am a rattle can user here, with plans to get a airbrush soon, but any ways here is what I use and do. Primer- duplicolor all the way, I also use wally world cheap primer for when I am doing body and want to see how my work is doing with out wasting the good stuff. ( I want to try plasticote, but I dont have a store near me that sells it) Paint- for the most part its either Model Master lacquer or tamiya , some times I will use duplicolor automotive paint as well. I use wally world flat black, and sometimes krylon Clear - I use ether MM ultra clear coat, or testors one coat clear, I have been wanting to try other brands of clear I dont get perfect paints job from the can, I have to wetsand then polish, I have a mirco mesh set 3200-12000, I use turtle wax rubbing compond and polish, and then I use meguiars scratch x . As of late I have been skipping using the micro mesh set and I use 2000 grit paper and wet sand the I start the polishing process. You have to put in a little work to get nice and shiny paint jobs, meaning it comes down to pre painting prep work, and then during and after work to get those mirror like finishes If you click on the link in my signature line, you can see my how my paint jobs come, there are not contest worthy yet Edited February 25, 2012 by martinfan5
ZombieHunter26 Posted February 25, 2012 Author Posted February 25, 2012 So far, great replies and information! I'd like to see this keep going guys!
Rob McKee Posted February 25, 2012 Posted February 25, 2012 I prefer Tamiya and Testors laquer spray cans when painting model car bodies. With good prep and patience laying down light mist coats I have had good results from both paints. If I am using a Tamiya color I stick with their primer, color, and clear coat. With Testors I use Tamiya primer, Testors color, and Testors Clear coat. The car on the left was painted with Tamiya and the right was painted with Testors.
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