Jim Whalen Posted March 18, 2012 Posted March 18, 2012 Hi, Just finished this one yesterday. Its mostly out of the box with a few additions: Detail Master brake discs with Replicas and Minatures of Maryland calipers that have been plumbed in, Detail Master distributor & ignition wiring & looms, Model Car garage photo etched detail set used for dashboard gauge & license plate surround & Ford badge, Detail master flocking, bendable stainless steel tubing was used to make the roof bars as the original drawing & car both featured roof bars. If anyone has any questions or wants to see more photos (I have quite a few w.i.p. photos of the build) just let me know. Cheers, Jim
Bartster Posted March 18, 2012 Posted March 18, 2012 I'm a big wagon fan, especially woodies(I'm starting a '41 Plymouth soon). This is one of the nicest I've seen. Very realistic.
Jim Whalen Posted March 18, 2012 Author Posted March 18, 2012 Hi Guys, Thanks for the comments - painting the body 3 different colours wasn't exactly my favourite thing going! Cheers, Jim
Dr. Cranky Posted March 18, 2012 Posted March 18, 2012 Very cool . . . the wood texture is very convincing. Nice job.
surfjunke Posted March 18, 2012 Posted March 18, 2012 Beautiful build! Very clean, nice paint & well done.
crazyjim Posted March 18, 2012 Posted March 18, 2012 Nice and clean and SHINY :) How did you do the woodgrain?
The70judgeman Posted March 18, 2012 Posted March 18, 2012 Awesome looking model, but I'd like to know more about the wood pannels. They're excellent.
Danno Posted March 18, 2012 Posted March 18, 2012 Not Jim, but the panels look like the kit's decals. Correct? Nice, good looking build, by the way!
Frank Posted March 18, 2012 Posted March 18, 2012 Very nice build, the wood grain is great. Only one thing, if it was 1:1 I don't think it would run for long with the plug leads sitting on the extractors.
Jim Whalen Posted March 19, 2012 Author Posted March 19, 2012 Hi, Thanks for the comments guys - they're appreciated! The woodgrain is the decals supplied by the kit. However, there is wood detail should one wish to paint that also gives the decals texture should you go the decal route like I did. The decals and the roof were then sprayed with Alclad light sheen clear. The spark plug leads do sit very close to the exhaust manifolds on real small block engines so they require very careful routing. Cheers, Jim
Dyno Davo Posted March 19, 2012 Posted March 19, 2012 Best build of that model I've ever seen, looks awesome.
jeffs396 Posted March 19, 2012 Posted March 19, 2012 (edited) Nicely done Jim! Do you have a linky for the SS tubing? Edited March 19, 2012 by jeffs396
Thor Posted March 19, 2012 Posted March 19, 2012 Well done Btw, what brand is those sparkplug wires ?
Jim Whalen Posted March 19, 2012 Author Posted March 19, 2012 Hi Guys, Thanks again for the comments guys - I appreciate the interest shown in this build Jeff - the bendable stainless steel tubing came from Hiroboy (www.hiroboy.com), they are based here in England but do ship worldwide. The tubing can be ordered in different diametres. Thor - the spark plug wires are from Detail Master, I sourced them from Scale Dreams (I think) but there are a few online sites that stock detail master, plus they have their own website. I've added a w.i.p. pic of the underneath of the chassis for those who may be interested in what was done to that part of the kit. Cheers, Jim
rustybill1960 Posted March 20, 2012 Posted March 20, 2012 WHOA! That is "one" sharp clean build there Doc!! Especially on that undercarridge!! Most impressive! And I will definetly check out some of that bendable steel!! Spot on and BEAUTIFUL Man!! Thank You for sharing it with Us here! Later Russ
zenrat Posted March 20, 2012 Posted March 20, 2012 Good job. How did you join the uprights to the horizontal roof bars? It's done very neatly.
Jim Whalen Posted March 20, 2012 Author Posted March 20, 2012 Hi, Fred - the uprights for the roof bars are short cuts of the same tubing that have been inserted into holes that were drilled before the model was painted (angled holes were drilled at the front of the roof where the bars themselves are attached. The tops of the uprights were made to curve slightly so that the bars would fit nicely and five minute epoxy was used to hold the bars in place. No glue was needed in the roof itself due to the tight fit. Cheers, Jim
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