Revell 1968 Dodge Charger R/T

[Sport Suburban]

I'm loving this. You are doing a great job.

Also UU1 is correct for a 68, B5 blue came out in 69. At the same time the paint codes dropped to two digets.

[Jdurg]

Loving how this is turning out. The engine build is always my favorite part, and the clean-up work you've done on your engine is orgasmic. Well done!

[Bonekrosha]

Looking good!

If you are wiring a Big Block Mopar engine for the first time (just in case you might not know) the firing order for the 383-440 Wedge engines and for the 426 Hemi is the same as Small & Big Block Chevy engines:

1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 but with an oposite rotation from the Chevys.

I'm not trying to be critical ok but the exhaust ports on those cylinder heads are incorrect, as they are evenly spaced.

The wedge heads have an exhaust configuration similar to the Small Block Chevy, the two middle tubes are close together.

Hemis have a port configuration similar to the Big Block Chevy, evenly spaced.

I know they will be pretty much covered up when you put on the manifolds but I figured I'd pipe up for accuracy sake.

Looking forward to seeing more pics as you go along...

[DANB]

I wish i had the patience for this attention to detail and quality lol I like your system for painting.

[pharr7226]

I've never done as much custom paint mixing as I am having to do on this build, but I like things to be as realistic as possible, working on the photo's I have, I mixed up the paint for the interior, this is the main colour, and will need masking off for the contrasting colours, I used Tamiya metallic blue and aluminium, thinned with lacquer thinners, looks good enough for me ....

Also worked on the body and some of the smaller parts, got them into primer, the body will get another coat of primer, this time it will be white, as the top coat is going to be light blue metallic

Nice work so far. I'm looking forward to seeing more. I like the use of tape labels for the colors. I'll have to borrow that one from ya. I use styrofoam and toothpicks or wooden skewers in the same way that you do. Keep up the good work.

[gearhedjon]

This looks like your off to a great start. Learned to drive in a '68 Charger. What are you going to do for the round marker lights? Have this kit and the side markers are decals...not very convincing.

[GeeBee]

This looks like your off to a great start. Learned to drive in a '68 Charger. What are you going to do for the round marker lights? Have this kit and the side markers are decals...not very convincing.

I'm still thinking about that one, as you say, the decals aren't that convincing, I'm amazed that the Model Car Garage has a P/E set for the '68 Charger ...

[Shelbytona]

Lookin great! I just thought I give you a warning on the rear axle not being centered to the wheel well openings on this kit. The wheels will sit to far back.. It's an easy fix relocating the diff on the springs and shortening the driveshaft a bit. If you have the latest issue of this kit you'll see it being off on the box art pics. I built a 69 charger a few months ago and the only other issue I had was the front roll pan below the bumper not fitting properly.. I glued some tabs on the outer pan out of some thin styrene to hold te corners in place to the fenders.. It solved the problem!

Can't wait to see more of this build!

[GeeBee]

Thanks for the tips, I have a look tomorrow, Not a great deal done today, but after looking at the body this morning in grey primer, it was clear it still needed work where the roof meets the rear wings, there were still a few marks that I wasn't happy, with, so a spot of putty and a bit of sandiing was needed to get it sorted, a quick shot of grey primer to check if things were o.k, which they were, so the whole shell and body parts got a coat of white cellulose primer, thinner than the plastic primer, but it goes on a lot smoother, I will leave it gas out for a few days, then it will get wet sanded, ready for the top coat.

[GeeBee]

If you look at the photo of the right hand side gutter trim, you'll notice a bit of it is missing, it looks worse than it is, because it is actually there, but as it needs to be covered in chrome BMF when the paint has been done, i had another look at it this morning, and it would be near impossible to put the BMF there, and be able to trim it, so with a deep breath, I had a look to see what plastic strip I had, the smallest I had was some 80 thou' evergreen rod, way too big, but it would have to do, so I marked the front with a black marker, and then started to sand the sides and rear of the rod, while trying to keep the rounded profile at the front, it took some time, but I got there, sanded down the primer, attached the small piece of plastic rod with cyno' glue, and then some putty, sanding, putty, sanding, putty, grey primer, more putty and even more sanding, one last coat of grey primer to see if there were any mark's to be sanded or filled, but this time, it looked o.k, so now it's back in white primer, it will be left to dry out really well for a couple of day, then it will be wet sanded, ready for top coat, started this at around mid-day, and got finished at 6pm .... a long day doing a very small job .... but well worth it

Finally Finished ....

[GeeBee]

Also UU1 is correct for a 68, B5 blue came out in 69. At the same time the paint codes dropped to two digets.

I have a 2006 PT Cruiser in Electric Blue, which has a paint code of B5 ... I wonder if the shades are close to the older '69 colour

[GeeBee]

The last few days I have been working on all the small parts, finally got them mounted on wooden sticks and got them all in primer, I spent some time yesterday masking off the seats and the side panels ready for the 2 tone to be done, the seats were a right PITA to do, but well worth the effort ...

Also got all the parts that need to be done in Alclad, and got the black basecoat on, I will leave these for a couple of days to dry out before they get the top coat of Alclad.

[GeeBee]

[GeeBee]

Got a little more done today, after getting the black base down yesterday I managed to get all the chrome parts done in Alclad, and all the parts that needed to be done in flat back & satin black airbrushed,

[Haubenschild]

Great progress! , the careful details on the interior are superb

[geordie]

As one Brit to another, you're doing a great job. I haven't been through all of this thread yet, but I know what I'll be doing tomorrow lunchtime, sarni in one hand, reading through it all. I love this body style. Very nice paintwork and attention to detail. Looking at the way you've numbered all those parts for paint, you aren't by any chance an engineer of some kind are you (compliment).

[GeeBee]

Looking at the way you've numbered all those parts for paint, you aren't by any chance an engineer of some kind are you (compliment).

I was, but due to medical reason's, had to take early retirement ....

[GeeBee]

Popped on the first coat this morning, but it needs a touch of wet sanding, as there's a few dust spec's that need sorting, even though I cleaned out the spraybooth and filters, but just popped up to check on the paint and it's touch dry after only a couple of hours the paint isn't even tacky, I will leave it a couple of days before sanding out the dust spots ...

[GeeBee]

Geebee, I don't know if it's the screen or my eyes but it look's like the body may need another coat or 2? UU1 is quite a nice & light colour & probably need's a couple of extra coats, more so than a darker shade  Like I said, it may be the screen, if I'm wrong then please disregard my observation. You're doing a great job mate 

Cheers Dan.

No, your right, that's just the first coat, it needs wet sanding to remove some dust specs, then it will get the finishing coats

[GeeBee]

Well, not a very productive day, got the bodyshell and wet sanded the dust marks out of the body, made sure the body was dust free, and tried another coat of paint, only to find ###### coming out of the airbrush into the paint, now I had only just cleaned the airbrush, but I thought I would try another airbrush, got the same problem, there was so much ###### coming out, it has to be in the paint ....

So the bodyshell and body parts are in the stripper !!!, popped to my paint supplier, and I knew they would have the paint, as I tried them in the first place, but they mixed me the closest they could get, which was a Ford colour, so I got a small pot of that mixed up in automotive acrylic, lacquer based, not enamel, so once the shell is free of paint, it will be re-primed, and done in this, I really wanted to do it in the proper shade, but it wasn't to be ....

[geordie]

I also usually paint after the Sun's gone down. If you look into the sunlight you'll see the particles floating around during the daylight hrs... & night there's none 

Excellent...LOL, can't argue with logic like that.

[geordie]

Dang Geoff, bummer !!! Been there myself......stay the course....steady as she goes.

[GeeBee]

Dang Geoff, bummer !!! Been there myself......stay the course....steady as she goes.

Don't worry, I don't give in that easy !!! she'll be back in top coat soon .....

[geordie]

Don't worry, I don't give in that easy !!! she'll be back in top coat soon .....

That's the spirit that built an Empire.....onwards and upwards !!!!

[GeeBee]

GeeBee... Whoa... Slow down mate.... You might still be able to use the original UU1 you have ... Get back to your local auto paint store & ask them if they have/sell paint filters

Most places do, I got some from my supplier. They're little square filters, used for, obviously filtering paint, metallics/pearls. Decant the whole bottle into another jar/glass, clean out the original bottle & put the filtered paint back in, this should do the trick 

Cheers Dan 

I need to order in some paint supplies, I usually have some of the filters, but like most things, you only find you've ran out when you really need them, I will pop them on the order when I stock up on supplies, and as I have another '68 to build, I can use it on that.