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2 part question


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#1 ] Has anyone ever used Dull-coat on your own printed decals? I want to knock the shine off the look Gloss-coat makes . Dull-coating after the decal is applied still leaves a semi glossy halo look .

#2 ] I have been using Testors clear parts cement and window maker for

making glass on gauges . Trying for a 'convex' look rather than a 'concave' look , also used bottled clear but with repeated coats the gauge face becomes unreadable . There might not be an answer to this but I thought just maybe .

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Ken,

In answer to your Dullcote question.......the best answer would be to test the decals (if possible) before trying it out on your latest project. Decals can vary greatly from model company to model company, and it can all depend on the type/brand of paint also.

As far as making gauge "glass" your best bet may to "punch" clear acetate for whatever size you may need. Different size punches can be found at your hardware store or maybe through Micro Mark. You may have adapt/file the punch so that it doesn't mar the surface of the acetate.

I've tried the method you described and it never came out the way it should. It would get cloudy, unreadable, yucky................. you name it. The method I've described can be time consuming, but it's worth the effort!

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I use Tamiya clear on the rare occasion I need gauge faces...Dries clear, completly, and stays shiny..

I used it to hold in the head and taillights if I can (If not, I BMF the back of them to make reflectors and glue that in) and I used it for this build. The lights are completly dry here. Even though they are clear parts, they reflect as if they were chrome :)

2006May29th071-vi.jpg

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