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Posted

Hi all, long time listener, first time caller.......

Last night I masked off the bottom of my Benny Parsons Monte Carlo so I could shoot the gold. Everything went peachy, except the fact that there is a TON of residue left from the masking tape. I didn't realize that I had used the wrong tape! (One month old babies will do that to you) This stuff is STICKY.

Anyway, my question is, how do I get this ###### off? I've used water, rubbing alcohol, my fingers.... I already painted the white on the car, so I can't use anything harsh because it might eat the paint.......ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED! I just want to get this one done so I can start on some other projects I have lined up.

Thanks Guys,

Jamie

Posted

First, Welcome to the board Jamie!

I've had this happen in the past when I used tape that had too heavy of a tack. What you might want to try is to use the tape itself to pull the residue off. I would maybe put the sticky side of the tape on a table or something to lessen some of the tackiness..............and then carefully put the tape where the residue is and pull up on it (CAREFULLY!! :o )

You can maybe ball up the tape a bit-------I wouldn't lay the whole strip of tape back over the residue. This will be a bit tricky because it's already painted.

I would suggest waxing the model where the residue resides................ but being that gold is a metallic, you might disturb the metallic flakes a bit too much, which would mean painting the car all over again. :D

Give this a shot.....maybe some others can chime in on some other methods they've used.

.............And congrats on the new baby! B)

Posted

Jamie,

Welcome to the forum!

I used to have that same problem when masking windshields and I was suggested to try BBQ lighter fluid. I worked like a charm! I dab a Q-tip in it and rub it in. There might be some streaking left that is easily waxed or polished away. It is safe for clear parts. Since in your case it is in a painted surface, test in a small area first. Also make sure the paint is totally dry.

Hope this helps!

Thanks,

Posted

Thank You, Thank You! I will be trying both methods tonight...I'll let you know how I made out. I appreciate it!

Again, thanks for the ideas!

Jamie

Posted
Thank You, Thank You! I will be trying both methods tonight...I'll let you know how I made out. I appreciate it!

Again, thanks for the ideas!

Jamie

There is also a product called Goof-off or Goo Gone that is made for removing sticky stuff. It works great getting pitch off my 1:1, Don't know if it will start briquets however. B)

Guest Davkin
Posted

The best adhesive remover I've ever used is CA accelerator, chances are you already have some of that at your work bench.

David

Posted
The best adhesive remover I've ever used is CA accelerator, chances are you already have some of that at your work bench.

David

Yes, I do......it won't ruin the paint that's already on there?? Very cool.......

Thanks David. And thanks to everyone that chimed in!!!!! I'm going to tackle the beast right after I get done typing this..... :D

Posted

One thing I've used is WD40, it's actually a light oil. It works on all sticky type adhesive residue such as labels and tape leave, and shouldn't hurt most types of paint.

Posted

Ditto on Goo Gone. This is a citrus based product which I have used to remove tape from models I've masked. I always rinse and wash the area with soap and water afterwards.

Bob

Posted

Goo Gone.......interesting........I'll have to pick some up for next time. But I did try the accelerator and it worked! Actually I tried using the tape again, but it was just too sticky, even when I "toned" it down a notch. Then I used the accelerator and it worked. It took off a little bit of paint off the roof, but it's nothing I can't fix. Again, thanks guys, I appreciate the help!!!!!!!!

Jamie

Posted
Goo Gone.......interesting........I'll have to pick some up for next time. But I did try the accelerator and it worked! Actually I tried using the tape again, but it was just too sticky, even when I "toned" it down a notch. Then I used the accelerator and it worked. It took off a little bit of paint off the roof, but it's nothing I can't fix. Again, thanks guys, I appreciate the help!!!!!!!!

Jamie

Welcome aboard "BAD" Buddy!!! :P

Posted (edited)

Seems like the problem is solved, but I would like to share this anyway: Many adhesives from stickers and tape can be removed with vegetable oil (canola oil, olive oil, whatever you have at hand). I discovered this after installing new countertops in the kitchen. They were labeled with those stubborn paper labels that will tear if you try to pull them off, and I tried everything in the house to clean up the mess. One evening, I left a bottle of olive oil on the counter right on one of the labels, and as bottles of olive oil do, it left a small puddle of oil on the counter. When I wiped the counter the next morning to clean up the oil, the label came right off with no effort at all. Getting the rest of the labels off was a breeze once I found this out. It works a bit slower than Goo Gone and other chemicals, but it's totally harmless to yourself and pretty much any kind of paint. Best thing about it is that it's always right there in the kitchen.

Edited by Olle F
Posted
Seems like the problem is solved, but I would like to share this anyway: Many adhesives from stickers and tape can be removed with vegetable oil (canola oil, olive oil, whatever you have at hand). I discovered this after installing new countertops in the kitchen. They were labeled with those stubborn paper labels that will tear if you try to pull them off, and I tried everything in the house to clean up the mess. One evening, I left a bottle of olive oil on the counter right on one of the labels, and as bottles of olive oil do, it left a small puddle of oil on the counter. When I wiped the counter the next morning to clean up the oil, the label came right off with no effort at all. Getting the rest of the labels off was a breeze once I found this out. It works a bit slower than Goo Gone and other chemicals, but it's totally harmless to yourself and pretty much any kind of paint. Best thing about it is that it's always right there in the kitchen.

Very cool idea Olle! I'll have to try that next time as well...........

"Welcome aboard "BAD" Buddy!!!"

Thanks Dave...I see a few names that I remember as well..... ;)

Posted
Very cool idea Olle! I'll have to try that next time as well...........

"Welcome aboard "BAD" Buddy!!!"

Thanks Dave...I see a few names that I remember as well..... :(

If all else fails, use 3m adhesive remover, found at auto body supply stores

Posted

Man, I feel your pain. The very same thing happened to me, as my beloved GTX which I painted Testors Pearl Black Metallic was totally ruined when I added some masking tape to do a competition stripe from rear wheel to rear wheel. The paint job worked out great, then when I removed the tape, the durn gunk collected right on the seperation line. I tried light sanding it to no avail, it took off the paint before the gunk.

So I "learned from being burned" and now this is what steps I take before masking again.

First, I paint the base color and clear coat it. I then let it dry for up to two weeks. Afterwards, I lightly wetsand it.

Second, I use the "blue masking tape" I got at Advanced Auto Parts. It seems to be a little more adhesive friendly.

Third, I prep the masked area with masking tape to protect the surround. Then apply new tape and paint. I remove within a few minutes when the paint has decided where it will stay.

I always use new tape, now. Only about 59 cents a roll, buy the small ones. Never keep more than a month and use on bodies. The adhesive gets stale, and you don't know how long it sat on the dealer shelf. So far, I have used fresh tape with no problemo's.

Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

Posted

One very effective way to reduce the amount of "sticky" to any type of tape is to first stick it to your forehead. Peel it off and apply it to your model. The natural oil on your skin does the trick. Remember, though, to seal the edge of the tape with a "clear shot" so that your paint will not seep under it.

bob

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