You guys sold me on Duplicolor, but WHICH ONE?

[FLAWLESSVW]

I'm leaving in about an hour to:

1. Return my Testors spray enamel and primer to Michaels

2. Return my Krylon Fusion to WalMart

3. BUY some Duplicolor after reading this forum for hours last night.

But believe it or not, I don't find much mention on here of which flavor of Duplicolor you guys are using? My auto parts stores sell several different types. I am starting my Ertl Great Dane 1/25 semi trailer today and need:

-White (gloss)

-Primer

The types I see available are:

Duplicolor "Perfect Match" Acrylic Laquer, small 8oz red can

Duplicolor "Premium Enamel" Acrylic Enamel 12oz black can

Duplicolor Acrylic Laquer 12oz blue can

And of course there are primers for each of the above variants. Do you use the same line primer as your paint or prefer to switch it up? Most threads I've read say to use the same primer, but I did see exceptions to that.

These are likely total n00b question, but then again, I am a TOTAL n00b!

It's possible the 3 listed above are not even correct, so if I'm way off, please post a link or name to the one you recommend. I really appreciate the help guys!

[rickd13]

I use Duplicolor sandable primer in the 12oz. can. It is my favorite primer. Then I use Duplicolor Perfect Match premium automtive paint in a black can that has a picture of the hood of a red car on it. It comes in a 8oz. can. I'm fairly sure it is an acrylic lacquer. You will have to use some kind of clear coat over the white base color if you want it to look glossy. You can use the Duplicolor clear. The can looks the same as the paint but the clear does not have a "shaker" ball inside of it. That should work well for you.

Edited September 3, 2012 by rickd13

[Jantrix]

Rick has it exactly right.

[FLAWLESSVW]

Thanks for the reply Rick. Actually I just got back from the auto parts store. I'm good on the paint; I got the Perfect Match you mentioned.

But I didn't get the primer you mentioned; I've got Perfect Match "Scratch Filler Primer" since I didn't get any replies before heading out

Do you think I'll be OK with that primer? I'm doing the spoon test as we speak, and I can probably still return/exchange the primer if needed.

Thanks again guys!

[Longbox55]

The Scratch filler primer will be just fine. It does go on a little heavier than the sandable type, but can be sanded out to a very smooth surface with little effort.

[FLAWLESSVW]

This will be going on the side panels of a Great Dane semi trailer which has a lot of fine detail (tiny simulated "rivets" and small lines to look like a real trailer) so I'm wondering if "a little heavier" is a bad thing... I don't know if sanding at all is going to be good due to the small detail. What do you think?

[Longbox55]

I don't think you'll have a problem. Even being a "heavier" primer, the scratch filler type is still very thin compared to most hobby and enamel primers. It's very similar to Tamiya Super fine, but with better coverage. As far sanding, it's not 100% necessary.

[Ace-Garageguy]

No bull......The "scratch filler" primer, the one that says "high build formula" on the label, is the one you want to use over bodywork, putty, modifications, etc. It fills sanding scratches because it IS a high-ish build product. You may have to prime-sand-prime-sand etc. several times to fix all the flaws in bodywork, so you don't want to do this on areas where you want to preserve fine detail.

I would recommend on your trailer, where you need a primer and you want to PRESERVE fine detail that you use the 'sandable' (NOT HIGH BUILD) primer: 1) first THOROUGHLY scrub the plastic with Soft-Scrub, Comet or something similar and a toothbrush. This will have the same effect as sanding, to give the primer a little 'tooth' to grab on to, without obliterating detail, but will get in all the little spaces between rivets...and 2) prime it with the 'sandable' which is NOT high build, and therefor won't hide the details. Try to learn to shoot it slick and dust-free. When it's thoroughly dry, scuff it with the abrasive cleaner and toothbrush again, but not too agressively. Same effect as sanding...a little tooth for the paint to grab, but no flattening of the details.

ALSO TEST !!!!! TEST thouroughly on the BACK of the parts you're going to prime and paint. Different plastics in the poly-styrene family react differently with different coatings, and the "on the back of a plastic spoon" advice won't necessarily show you how your particular model's plastic will react. Use the same primer / paint you want to use on the outside of the model. Don't rush it. It's cheaper to wait a bit for everything to dry completely than to strip the model or have to replace it when the paint crazes.

Edited September 3, 2012 by Ace-Garageguy

[FLAWLESSVW]

You guys are awesome... I def need to go to my local meeting and chat with some experienced guys for an hour or so!

Bill, I appreciate the detailed response. What are your thoughts on scuffing it with an automotive grade 3M Scotch-Brite pad? Is that ever good-practice? Also, you said "on your trailer where you need primer"... I am only priming because I figured it was the right thing to do. If I am dealing with something with fine detail like this, should I skip primer and just shoot color? If so, what brand/type of paint? I didn't prime the first 2 models I built and just sprayed Testors Spray Enamel after scuffing with a Scotch-Brite and washing with Dawn, and they came out pretty nice. Your thoughts?

[Ace-Garageguy]

The reason I qualified the statement with "where you need primer" is because you mentioned using Duplicolor topcoats. The lacquers MAY cause crazing of the plastic without primer, and that's also why I'm adamant about testing on the actual plastic of your intended paint victim, with the specific products you're thinking of using. I've ruined enough stuff, and wasted enough time fixing messes over the years to be careful now.

I've used Scotch-brite in the past, and had good results. I think the very fine gray one is the way to go. BUT, I've also looked at the results of SB under a magnifier, and the fibers still tend to ride over some areas adjacent to raised details, whereas scrubbing with the abrasive cleaner and toothbrush gets in all the crevices.

This is an issue because.....When you paint a model, paint tends to collect slightly more in the creases. Paint tends to shrink as it dries, as the solvents evaporate out. Where there is more paint, as in the creases, there will be more shrinkage. If you paint with something that doesn't etch the surface somewhat to enhance adhesion, you CAN have so much shrinkage over time that the paint will start to crack and peel from the crevices first. I've actually seen this happen on older models, and carefully analyzed why. I found that, even though the models HAD been scuff-sanded, they hadn't been scuffed in the creases and low areas adjacent to raised detail. It all made sense, and now I err on the side of overkill and scuff everything with an abrasive cleanser.

[clayton]

I used Duplicolor for years till it got costly then went back to krylon or so(have too look),never used the Fusion paint.

Make sure you keep every thing the same (IE) enamel on enamel and laquer on laquer or acrylic on acrylic.

Laquer is hot so it will cook the enamel or crack it. I use the gray primer filler and I do sand with 2000 grit.

one time had to start all over,laquer over the enamel acrylic and had to strip the paint.

And use the 12oz cans those little 8oz don't go far.

[FLAWLESSVW]

One more question on paint guys: Do you always paint on the tree, or do you ever assemble sections of the same color (e.g. the underbody, etc) and spray it assembled?

The first two small models I did, I painted on the tree and touched up with a brush in some small areas. So I wanted to know if that's the general method?

Thanks!

[rickd13]

One more question on paint guys: Do you always paint on the tree, or do you ever assemble sections of the same color (e.g. the underbody, etc) and spray it assembled?

The first two small models I did, I painted on the tree and touched up with a brush in some small areas. So I wanted to know if that's the general method?

Thanks!

I take all off the parts off of the trees and trim and sand off the mold lines before I start painting. I tape all the pieces that need to be painted the same color to a big piece of cardboard and then I prime and paint them that way. I also assemble the pieces I can before I start painting ( for example: the engine block)