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Posted

yep!

That's cool. I thought that's what they were, but couldn't remember for sure.

My Uncle Darren had an Aspen R/T that got a really nasty 340 put in it.

And, had a pistol grip 4 spd out of a wrecked 71 Super Bee.

Pretty cool car.

Corey

Posted

Got my black paint lookin beautiful again.

Now it just needs a good polish and it'll be all done as far as paint goes.

Then I get to add all the little photo etched goodies.

Will take pics and post in a minute.

Corey

Posted

I hope my paint comes out that purty, lol. Looks beautiful, brother... and black is a difficult color since it shows imperfections so well.

Thanks Brandon.

If you go through all the proper steps, you shouldn't have a problem.

With black, I start off wetsanding the bare plastic with 800 grit. Then a coat of primer, and guide coat. Then I wetsand primer with 800 grit until all the low spots are gone.

Then wetsand with 1000 grit. Spray color coat, and 15 min later clear, "depending on the paint you might have to wait longer".

Wetsand that with 1000 grit until it all looks the same. The another coat of clear. Wetsand that with 2000 grit and clear.

That's where I'm at now.

Corey

Posted

Thats the most detailed help Ive gotten so far, so thanks for that. Is it true you cant sand metallics? My base coat is a silver metallic with some pretty good metal flak, Krylon btw. Then the top coat will be Testor's clear read. Dont know about the clear yet as the clear has a pretty good shine to it at least in my test shots.

Posted (edited)

No prob man.

I've sanded metallics quite a few times. You just have to use a light grit paper, and sand lightly.

If you do have to sand it, remember; be EASY. Because if you are easy with it you can just clear it again before your first color coat to bring the metallic back for your color to look right. If you go too deep, you'll have to respray your metallic. Ideally, it's a good idea to have your primer as smooth as possible before you spray your base coat. Because the smoother your primer, the smoother your basecoat will be. And so on.

Corey

Edited by dimebolt
Posted

Awesome. I cant thank you enough for the advice. I hope to shoot my color this weekend. Im pretty sure I wrapped the bodywork up tonight. My fingers are sore from the sanding, lol.

Posted (edited)

I'm really impressed with Testors One Coat Lacquers and Wet Look Clear. I don't have a compressor for my airbrush yet, so I'm stuck using rattle cans. These paints have been phenominal for me. I've even used the clear on top of enamels, which with most paints is a no no, and had zero problems.

Corey

Awesome. I cant thank you enough for the advice. I hope to shoot my color this weekend. Im pretty sure I wrapped the bodywork up tonight. My fingers are sore from the sanding, lol.

No prob man.

Glad I could help.

Edited by dimebolt
Posted

Really the key to smooth as glass paint is all in the prepwork, and how you spray it.

Go through the sanding process like I described, and your paint will be ultra smooth.

You can NEVER get rid of every scratch on the surface. But, every time you sand it completely with a smoother grit, the scratches are that much smaller. When all the scratches are as small as you can get them, and of the same depth all around, your model will shine like no other. I've had color coats come out smoother and shinier than some I've seen with clear on them.

All in the prep, and control of your hand.

Corey

Posted

Thanks for the paint-info, Corey! I'm thinking just what color I should paint my '71 Cuda Pro Stocker... I guess it will be Black, Orange or Red but I'm not sure yet.

Your paint job turned out fantastic! Very shiny and very smooth. I like the wheels and tires, too. Those fit perfectly to this kind of Pro Street Car. :P

Posted

Thanks Niko.

I've spent about 22 years painting as my Mom's ex husband painted semi trucks for living. ALOT of trial and error. But this system works best for me.

Hope it helps others also.

Corey

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