Power Supply - Bilge Blower Motor

[hooterville75]

Hey all I recently purchased a Bilge Blower Motor to put in my built spray booth. I'm trying to find a power supply so when it actually gets here I'm set and not dragging this build on any longer. I have found the following power supplys laying around and wondering if anyone knows anything about Bilge Blower Motors. The power supplies I have are as follows. Does anyone think either of these will work. Here is a bit about the Bilge Blower Motor.

Ignition protected

Spark proof

4" (10.16cm) Intake

4" (10.16cm) Exhaust with remote bracket

5-3/4" (14.61cm) Length

4-3/4" (12.07cm) Mounted height

CFM 240 Air movement.

Ignition protected 12V DC, 4.5 Amps

Use 5 Amp fuse.

Blower meets or exceeds these standards:

ABYCH H-2

NMMA Certified

USCG 33 CFR Sections 183.410 and 183.425

ISO 9097

UL Listed

UL 1128 Standard Marine blowers.

50-41841

I have a plug that is used to plug in a computer tower. It is a I-SHENG IS-14 and is 10A - 12.5 V - 1250 W

I also have a old laptop plug that was two pieces. It had a plug that plugged into a box that had another wire on that went up to plug into the laptop. I only have the part that plugs into the box which I believe is pointless but not sure. So it reads Input = 100-240 V - 1.7 A - 50-60 Hz Output = 18.5V - 3.5 A

Then I have (2) plugs that read Technics Direct Plugin Class 2 Power Unit

Model : TEAD 48-120800U

Input = 120VAC - 60Hz - 15W

Output = 12 VDC - 800mA

Then I have one plug that reads

Input = 120VAC - 60Hz - 15W

Output = 9 VDC - 1 Amp

I also have a Power Protect AV 600 with Surge (protector that I cut the 8 foot plug off of. I don't use it as a surge protector anymore since it was updated with a new surge protector that the better half left someone talk her into. I was originally going to just strip the plug for the copper to recycle but got the bright idea that this may work for a spray booth power source sometime so I kept it. I have no specifics power wise on it so was hoping someone else may know. I'm currently researching this myself as well.

Thanks in advance for all info. Hoping one of these I have will work as I'm starting to stress out over this project.

Deron

[Fat Brian]

Nothing you have puts aout the right amount of juice to get optimal performance out of this motor. Take it to Radio Shack and see if they sell an AC adapter that that puts out what this thing needs. It will have to put out 12V DC but if the amps are a little high they can show you how to wire in a fuse that won't let it draw too much current.

[Kit Basher]

You will need to find a power supply that can change 120V AC to 12V DC and can supply at least 5 amps of current. The problem you are facing is that this fan is made to operate off the electrical system of a boat, which is a 12V DC system with a battery and an alternator, similar to a car. The wall plugs in your house are 120V AC, a totally different animal. I did an internet search, and found some supplies that would do what you want to do, but they are pricey. I'm sorry to say that the price of the bilge blower plus the price of the power supply may exceed that of a 120V blower that you could just plug into the wall. I hope someone else can give you a better report.

Edited October 10, 2012 by Kit Basher

[Ace-Garageguy]

Your blower motor clearly states it requires 12v at 4.5 amps. A power supply that will work will be labeled OUTPUT 12v (not 18 or 8.5 or whatever) at (minimum) 4.5 amps. It also says use a 5amp fuse. Wire an inline fuse holder you can get at the auto parts store in the + side of the power output and put a 5amp fuse in it.

A used model train transformer with 12v DC output would work.

OR, here's a bazillion for less than $10 with the right rating.

http://www.ebay.com/...power supply 5a

You could also hook it up to a 12v car battery.

Edited October 10, 2012 by Ace-Garageguy

[Ace-Garageguy]

On more careful reading, it looks like your "plug that is used to plug in a computer tower. It is a I-SHENG IS-14 and is 10A - 12.5 V - 1250 W" MIGHT work. It appears the output is 12.5 volts (that's okay if it's DC), at 10 amps (that's how much it's capable of delivering, which is okay) at 1250 watts. If that IS INDEED the OUTPUT in VOLTS DC, it will work fine.

Does it have a black box inline with the power cord? Does it say DC anywhere about the output?

[hooterville75]

Thanks so much everyone. Much appreciated. Let me get to work seeing if I can obtain what youve mentioned Ill need. Thanks again.

[Kit Basher]

There ya go! Listen to Ace, ignore what I said. I never would have thought of a train transformer, that would work just fine. Happy spraying!

[hooterville75]

On more careful reading, it looks like your "plug that is used to plug in a computer tower. It is a I-SHENG IS-14 and is 10A - 12.5 V - 1250 W" MIGHT work. It appears the output is 12.5 volts (that's okay if it's DC), at 10 amps (that's how much it's capable of delivering, which is okay) at 1250 watts. If that IS INDEED the OUTPUT in VOLTS DC, it will work fine.

Does it have a black box inline with the power cord? Does it say DC anywhere about the output?

This plug is off my old desktop Personal computer. You plug the one end into the wall, and then on the other end is a box with three prongs on that you stick into the back of the PC Tower. This is the plug that ran the power to the entire tower of the computer.

[Fat Brian]

Make sure that the output of the adapter is putting out 12.5 V and 10A in DC and not AC, if it is DC Bill says you might have something there.

[hooterville75]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-3A-5A-6A-US-Plug-DC-Power-Supply-Adapter-AC-100-240V-LED-Lights-5-5-2-1mm-/251149618381?pt=US_Lighting_Parts_and_Accessories&var=&hash=item3a79af0ccd

How bout this ? $.99 + $2 if what I have doesnt happen to work ?

Edited October 11, 2012 by hooterville75

[hooterville75]

On more careful reading, it looks like your "plug that is used to plug in a computer tower. It is a I-SHENG IS-14 and is 10A - 12.5 V - 1250 W" MIGHT work. It appears the output is 12.5 volts (that's okay if it's DC), at 10 amps (that's how much it's capable of delivering, which is okay) at 1250 watts. If that IS INDEED the OUTPUT in VOLTS DC, it will work fine.

Does it have a black box inline with the power cord? Does it say DC anywhere about the output?

10A - 12.5 V - 1250 W is what it says right on three pronged plug that plugs in to the back of the PC tower.

[Ace-Garageguy]

That should work...use the 6Amp output. You'll have to cut the output plug off, split the + and - wires, splice your fuse holder into the + side, and then connect the wires to the motor. Be sure to securely and carefully insulate all of your connections with electrical tape or heat-shrink. It's DC, so if you hook it up backwards, it will run backwards.

I was going to suggest you get maybe a 10Amp unit, as it's really better to have more capacity than the load requires if possible. A 5Amp fuse inline will protect both the power supply and the fan motor in the event something draws MORE than 5 amps, like a short-circuit in your wiring, or in case something gets stuck in the fan blades and jams it.

[hooterville75]

If that IS INDEED the OUTPUT in VOLTS DC, it will work fine.

Does it have a black box inline with the power cord? Does it say DC anywhere about the output?

I dont know if its AC or DC I would assume AC because it was used as the power supply for the PC tower. Plug it into the wall and then another three prong box type plug in to the back of the PC Tower.

There is no type of black box as in is used to power a laptop. My laptop power supply is a plug that plugs into the wall, goes to this black box and has another box type three prong plug that plugs into a black box, that then has another wire going to a circular plug that plugs into the side of my laptop.

[Ace-Garageguy]

10A - 12.5 V - 1250 W is what it says right on three pronged plug that plugs in to the back of the PC tower.

We still need to know if the output is 12.5 V DC or AC. We don't ever want to assume anything with electricity, and if the output is AC, a DC motor probably won't run and it may be damaged.

[Ace-Garageguy]

The black box would be the transformer / rectifier that converts AC to DC, and steps the voltage down from 120V house current to 12V. If there's no black box on the cord, don't even think of hooking it up to your fan motor.

[Guest G Holding]

Find a old building alarm, small battery 12v will work fine, a 12V 10A battery charger will charge the battery and when using. Wire your battery hot side,to a switch,ground to ground.As the motor draws 4.5 A you can fuse it inline if you want.

NOTE>>>ASSUMES ELECTRICAL SKILLS AND KNOWLEDGE >>>

Edited October 11, 2012 by G Holding

[hooterville75]

Ok so basically I want to get a 12V 5-10 A power supply. Will start looking on evilbay. Till its all said and done Id have been better off just waiting till I could afford a Dayton Squirell Cage Blower Motor and been done with it lol. Oh well can't say I didn't try to save a buck ha ha. Thanks for all the info. Ill let you know what I come up with and how its running once I get it all finished. Thanks again for the info. Much appreciated.

[Fat Brian]

It will have to be DC, 12V 5-10A DC.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Ok so basically I want to get a 12V 5-10 A power supply. Will start looking on evilbay. Till its all said and done Id have been better off just waiting till I could afford a Dayton Squirell Cage Blower Motor and been done with it lol. Oh well can't say I didn't try to save a buck ha ha. Thanks for all the info. Ill let you know what I come up with and how its running once I get it all finished. Thanks again for the info. Much appreciated.

Yes, and as Brian reminded once again, DC, DC, DC.

Maybe not the cheapest or easiest soluton, but one of those wonderful opportunities modeling gives us to learn new stuff.

The bilge fan and a cheapo power supply is really a very GOOD solution, by the way.

[hooterville75]

Yes, and as Brian reminded once again, DC, DC, DC.

Maybe not the cheapest or easiest soluton, but one of those wonderful opportunities modeling gives us to learn new stuff.

The bilge fan and a cheapo power supply is really a very GOOD solution, by the way.

I guess if your an electrician lol. Its all trial and error for me. Ill get it figured out. Still havent gotten the motor in the mail yet to see what for hook ups it has. I'm actually getting ready to call the Marine I bought the motor from to explain what I bought the motor for and see what he recommends. Should be interesting. Will report back with what he says.

[Ace-Garageguy]

A 12 volt DC motor, if it's single speed, will almost certainly only have two wires. Usually the 'ground' wire on a 12V component is black, but not always. IF the motor case isn't grounded, the wires can be hooked up either way....one way will run backwards. Most fans these days are designed to move air most efficiently in one direction, and that will probably be indicated on the housing or on a blade with a little molded-in arrow. The + and - hookup polarities for correct rotation will most likely be indicated too.

Many DC power supply outputs have a small-gage version of the familiar two-conductor lamp cord, and one of the paired conductors will often have a white 'tracer' or stripe printed on the insulation. That is your + wire. Hook it to the + side of the fan, with your switch and /or fuse in line (in series) on the +side. Power supply to switch to fuse to fan.

Hook the other wire to the - side of the fan. That's it.

[hooterville75]

Wow thanks for the great info. Will be looking at the hookups "If" it ever gets here lol. I hope its that easy lol. The less wires the better off ha ha. Ill definitely be in touch when the motor gets here. If you need them, Ill take photos of the motor when it gets here. I'm going to have to cut the plug off the power supply I buy off evilbay. Will take photos of the wires after I cut the plug off as well. Hopes its as easy as your referring, as I assumed from initial posts that it was going to be a disaster horror story to get this unit powered up.

[hooterville75]

I received the Bilge Motor today. For some reason I thought it would be a bit bigger then it is and don't see how that lil thing is going to blow 250 CFM's but time shall tell ha ha. There's actually not much to it. The housing, with two mounting legs coming off of it, the fan in the back with a electric motor (appears to be) attached to the fan. There are two wires connected to the motor, a Yellow wire and a Black wire. That's all it consists of. It does have an arrow pointing and saying the direction of the airflow.

[hooterville75]

Many DC power supply outputs have a small-gage version of the familiar two-conductor lamp cord, and one of the paired conductors will often have a white 'tracer' or stripe printed on the insulation. That is your + wire. Hook it to the + side of the fan, with your switch and /or fuse in line (in series) on the +side. Power supply to switch to fuse to fan.

William:

Will either of these work to power this Bilge Motor ? The way I read it and understand how each piece works, I take that they will but want to be sure before I dish anymore useless money out on this stupid thing lol. Should have just got the Squirell Cage Blower Motor.

http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/180571297681?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110965036064?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Edited October 15, 2012 by hooterville75

[hooterville75]

In regards to getting power to my Bilge Blower Motor. Being that it requires 12 VDC & 5 Amps to power the Motor, I got to thinking since our prior talks in regards to how I was going to power this motor.

Why couldn't I get a PC Tower Power Supply Unit 24 or 20 pin connector, clip all the wires from the ports. KEEP all the Yellow wires which would be the 12 volt rail wires, KEEP all the Black wires which would be all the negative wires and KEEP the Green wire which would be the switch wire. CUT and ELIMINATE all the other wires.

Shrink wrap all the other wires with heat shrink wrap so they cant short anything out. Hook the Green and one ground wire to a switch for the power on/off button. Connect all the Yellow wires together including the yellow from the Bilge motor for the 12 volt rail wires. Connect all the Black ground wires with the black ground wire on the bilge motor. Plug the plug into the back of the PSU and plug it into the wall. Turn the switch on and I should be in business ?

Is this possible and don't you think that would work ? It would be on a 12 volt rail. Would have plenty of amps from the PSU as the smallest PC Tower PSU is 15 Amps and depending on the size of the PSU it could run all the way up to 60 Amps.

Does this seem like it work work or am I still dreaming lol ?