Fracturing decals ?

[cobraman]

I guess that is what you would call them. You know when they split when you go to apply them. Does anyone else notice this problem ? It seems to be getting worse. I have had it happen with Slixx a few times and then just today with the snake skin center decals for the AMT King Cobra. Can't be age because the King Cobra kit just hit the shelves not so long ago. I had to piece the decals together on the King Cobra kit and it doesn't look too bad. Has anyone else noticed this ? I guess I will coat my decals from now on before I use them.

[Ben]

That's all you can do is give them a few coats of the liquid decal film. Decals that are really old or just really thin will break apart like that.

[MAGNUM4342]

Alot of the decals made for Polar Lights have been doing this. It's gotten to the point that I automatically add a clearcoat before dipping any decals. Years back when the vintage NASCAR's came out (Petty, Baker, Pearson) Those decals did the same. The most recent incident was with the re-issued 1/32nd Batmobile.

Step one, is definitely pre-coat. Make sure secondarily, to notify the kitmaker. I know Polar Lights has no qualms about replacing decals.

[RancheroSteve]

Alot of the decals made for Polar Lights have been doing this. The most recent incident was with the re-issued 1/32nd Batmobile.

Step one, is definitely pre-coat. Make sure secondarily, to notify the kitmaker. I know Polar Lights has no qualms about replacing decals.

That's kind of odd - I built the 1/32 PL Batmobile a couple of years back (not long after it came out) and had no problem at all with the decals, as I recall they were kind of tough and thick, but finally laid down well with a lot of setting solution. Sounds like maybe there's a lot of variation in quality?

[styromaniac]

What's the best remedy for salvaging decals?

A clear coat spray?

A liquid solution?

Can anyone name a product they've used with success?

I have a few nostalgic decals I'm sure will require some kind of treatment as a precaution if they are to hold together.

[hooterville75]

Alot of people like Liquid Decal Solution from Microscale Industries applied before you apply the decals, then use the setting solutions Micro Set and Micro Sol again from Microscale Solutions. Other people like to use Solvaset when applying the decals. Other people will just shoot any clear coat over the decals before they apply them. Hope this helps.

[MAGNUM4342]

That's kind of odd - I built the 1/32 PL Batmobile a couple of years back (not long after it came out) and had no problem at all with the decals, as I recall they were kind of tough and thick, but finally laid down well with a lot of setting solution. Sounds like maybe there's a lot of variation in quality?

[High octane]

You can coat your decals before using with just about any lacquer and Testors also makes a Decal Sealer. I've use both with great results.

[Chillyb1]

What's the best remedy for salvaging decals?

A clear coat spray?

A liquid solution?

Can anyone name a product they've used with success?

I have a few nostalgic decals I'm sure will require some kind of treatment as a precaution if they are to hold together.

The most fool-proof solution is the Microscale Liquid Decal Film. Using a clearcoat over decals does sometimes work, but I've had that backfire. The Microscale product goes on thick and looks really unappealing, but dries to an absolutely imperceptible layer. I have been doing painting and decal work for a slot car guy and very often the decals he sends are ancient. A little LDF and they work perfectly.

Get some today and don't give the issue a second thought.

[RancheroSteve]

Yes, I'll second that - and sometimes two coats are needed. Also excellent to use if you're making your own decals using an inkjet printer with some of the popular decal films.

[styromaniac]

Thanks for the info. .

I'll give it a try.