1/16 Jewel T Altered

[gasser59]

That is some really nice work Mark. I have a 1/16 scale build or two coming up and I'll want to get a couple of engines from you. They are exquisite!!

Let's try this:

Edited March 31, 2013 by gasser59

[gasser59]

OK, so we know that I can link to your photos, now we need to get your efforts to work. I just copied the PhotoBucket link and put left bracket and typed 'img' then left bracket in front and then left bracket followed by '/img' followed by right bracket behind the copied link. Give it a go.

[edboys]

Well, still don't know exactly why I can't post twice in one day. This morning everything worked just fine, but the past few days I have only been able to comment or post pix once a day. I will muddle thru for now until I figure this out. Enjoy.

Various parts for the front axle assembly. Use of .045 aluminum rod, .032 aluminum plate, .062 stainless tube, .060 plastic hex rod, .020 plastic sheet, .080 & .100 plastic rod.

Spindle assembly & radius arm

Torsion bar connection and first spindle assembly

[Dyno Davo]

Stellar progress Mark, this will be an awesome model when complete.

[Mooneyzs]

Chris,

Usually I bend by hand first, gently putting the radius in the plastic. As you already know the plastic has memory and wants to return to its' original shape. I then hold the plastic where I want it in final form and pass a lighter underneath, enough to introduce the right amount of heat to get the plastic to relax. You will feel the plastics' tension give when the right amount of heat has been attained. Continued holding in position until it cools and the plastic will now retain the bend I want. The jig I used in the photo is little different in that I found my usual method left bends in the straight area of the main roll bar hoop. By putting wooden guides along all the straight sections of the roll bar and then placing a pre-bent plastic tube in the jig, the use of the hair dryer supplied the needed heat to re-set the plastic tension.

Mark... thank you for taking the time to explain to me your process. I am going to have to try that myself. I know what you mean about the plastic wanting to spring back. I have bent some of my tube with a hair dryer and you tend to heat more if an area than you usually want. I do need to try the lighter method.

That front axle is looking great and is coming together. I really like how you are making this come to life. You do some killer work. I am looking forward to more.

[edboys]

Working on the Olds rear end and this is the ladder bar that I plan to use. Trying my hand at plastic rod ends with another attempt at aluminum ones next; then to decide which to use.

[edboys]

Thanks for the kind words Chris. Yah, the lighter method keeps the heat concentrated to a very local area as opposed to the hair dryer. Just don't use the lighter too long or it will melt/distort the plastic.

[edboys]

Early progress on the Olds rear end needed for this build. Started out modifying the Revell kit rear end and third member (not shown yet) and will be adding drum brake parts by the time it is complete.

[Magic Photos]

Looks great Mark.

[Mooneyzs]

Mark.... I dont think I have ever said thia before to another guy but nice rear end you got there lol. The work you are doing is just fantastic. Love your work. Keep at it.

[Casey]

Mark.... I dont think I have ever said thia before to another guy but nice rear end you got there lol.

I have to agree.

Mark, what are you planning to use for the American 12-spokes and for matching tires?

[edboys]

Chris, Thanks for your comments, but I have to say that while watching your build you have made an impression on me as well.

Casey, I will be scatchbuilding the front 12-spoke wheels. Going to make them to fit the existing tires for Revell's FE dragster kits. After I do one spoke, then a mold will be made to copy it and then pull six good ones for the wheel assembly. I will be posting pix of that soon.

[vintagedragfan]

good stuff Mark!!

[Mooneyzs]

Mark... thanks for the kind words about my build. I need to get an engine order over to you for a couple of builds.

[edboys]

Finished the third member for the Olds rear end. Now to get the backing plates and drums for the brakes done. I can proceed to make the attachment ears for the ladder bars and get the frame on wheels.

[vintagedragfan]

very nice Mark!

[Mooneyzs]

Mark.... Nice work on the 3rd member. It has turned out great!

[dragcarz]

WOW....I'm such a hack compared to you guys............

[bhgseve]

Looks great Mark, sorry I missed it in person last week, but will hopefully see more Thursday!

[Ira]

BEAUTIFUL WORK MARK!

[edboys]

Getting some more tube into the frame and after I get the rear end mounts done I can locate the ladder bars and finish up the rest of the frame. Here is what I have done so far in furthering that process.

[Magic Photos]

Great detail Mark looks great

[edboys]

Here's a Paul Rowe torqueflite tranmission that I will be using with some minor clean-up mods for the Jewel T. Gotta figure out some more particulars cause Wes Ingram said that there was a clutch pedal that hangs from the hoop just behind the firewall. Sounds like a clutch-flite might be in order here and that will take some research on my end. Also, got the ladder bars done and now to get the attachment ears on the rear end so I can get more of the frame completed.

[edboys]

Jumping around with parts development, so here are the brake drum, backing plate and axle pieces. The drum and backing plate come from an old Pyro T-N-Tee kit. Acquired the kit in built condition, but the parts are re-storable and in this case a must have for the Jewel T build. I don't know if I will complete the brake shoe assembly yet as I haven't made a decision to display that much detail.

The parts as well as the bolt pattern are done to accommodate the Revell wheels. This wheel was used for testing and assembly of the parts created.

[Magic Photos]

Great detail Mark, this is a killer build.