What am I doing wrong

[Blackwolf]

Hi all well I went and got the adhesion promoter and I followed the directions on the can to the letter. But when I went to do the finial gluing up on the cab and interior and I was using the latex gloves so that I didn't leave any oily spots or anything but the paint came off and now I have to start all over again. The paints I was using is the wicked but now I'm thinking about trying this trident paints . Any and all helpful info would be most grateful and a Big Thanks In Advance.

Edited April 28, 2013 by Blackwolf

[Jantrix]

Say what? Adhesion promoter? Never heard of it.

I've also never heard of wicked or trident paints. Some pics or links to the products please.

[Custom Mike]

Adhesion Promoter is used for painting the plastic bumpers on cars, it's essentially a clear primer that remains slightly tacky, allowing paints to stick to the bumper covers. Why are you using it on a model...unless the model is vinyl, it shouldn't be needed. A good quality primer (I use Dupli-Color) should be all you need.

[Erik Smith]

WICKED PAINTS

TRIDENT PAINTS

Both are water based air brush paints - I don't know of many people using these for modeling...? Sounds like there is not proper adhesion between the promoter and the paint - which is why the paint would pull off with handling. As Mike stated, all you need is a good primer base - Tamiya, Plastikote, Duplicolor, etc - for proper adhesion on styrene plastic.

I am all for trying new products and mixtures, but I wouldn't throw them untested onto a project. I have enough scrap bodies and plasitc around that I test things and go from there.

[slusher]

WICKED PAINTS

TRIDENT PAINTS

Both are water based air brush paints - I don't know of many people using these for modeling...? Sounds like there is not proper adhesion between the promoter and the paint - which is why the paint would pull off with handling. As Mike stated, all you need is a good primer base - Tamiya, Plastikote, Duplicolor, etc - for proper adhesion on styrene plastic.

I am all for trying new products and mixtures, but I wouldn't throw them untested onto a project. I have enough scrap bodies and plasitc around that I test things and go from there.

l agree with Erik. When doing anything new try it on scrap bodies.

[my80malibu]

If you are going to use a waterbased paint you need a waterbased primer as well. The aqueous paints do not adhere well to laquer primer

[MAGNUM4342]

If you are going to use a waterbased paint you need a waterbased primer as well. The aqueous paints do not adhere well to laquer primer

I've used Createx Wicked colors pver lacquer primer before, it works just fine. The problem here is the "adhesion promoter". It's completely unnecesary for these paints.

Strip the model down to bare and make sure it's COMPLETELY CLEAN, then start over. With Createx paint I use Wal-Mart's Colorplace brand flat paints. They are .97 cents a can and will prime three or four full kits. Then airbrush your Wicked paints. As an aqueous paint, it needs to either be heat set in a dehydrator, or clear coated to lock it down. Createx's formula is alot like neons. They are a very soft paint and can tear easily but adhesion promoter only adds to the problem.

[fatkidd]

What were the steps that you did after the adhesion promoter (ap) was applied?

Did you prime after the ap or did you spray your base over the ap?

How long did you let it sit after applying the ap? what brand ap did you use?

in the case with some adhesion promoters ( i don't know what brand you used), you have a "window" to apply a primer. If you miss the window, you can sometimes get away with scuffing it with a scotchbrite pad.

If you share a little more info on the steps you did, it would help us to help you

[Blackwolf]

Ok Thanks for your all info cause when I had asked about it about how to get the paints to bond on plastic the person had told me to use the adhesion promoter and then use my wicked paints