Ognib Posted June 7, 2013 Author Share Posted June 7, 2013 Thanks, Curt. I had missed a couple of threads on the subject, when I searched previously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 7, 2013 Author Share Posted June 7, 2013 (edited) Oh man, that's a good looking wheel & just perfect for the vibe I want for this project. The spokes, as in this one, need to be metal for the best look Edited June 7, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 Watched this vid, from the GSL library link posted earlier, on shaping body panels in brass. Camera work could have been better in that it was somewhat difficult to see exactly what was being done at times, but still informative. He was forming a deck lid for a 49 ford & was working free hand, without bucks. Someone asked if he felt it would be easier to shape with bucks & said he felt it would be. This was encouraging for me, considering the number of hours that I'm investing in the development of the bucks for my project. http://archive.org/details/fashioningPanelsFromBrassByGeorgeLayton Some nice metal work here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 9, 2013 Author Share Posted June 9, 2013 (edited) Went to the Heartland Nationals today. Had a great time. Good people, great displays, fantastic work in several instances. This is a very dynamic club with obviously great leadership & an involved membership, to successfully produce an event like this. I'm realy glad to be with them, as I've been warmly welcomed & have already benefited from their collective experiences as I'm laying out the logistics & beginning work on my project. Came home with some 1:8 flathead parts to work off of. Saw a set of wires that looked like the ones pictured above, only in full metal...rims, hubs & spokes. The guy said they were built by a guy named Chris Garcia. I was lusting over them big time, but they were not for sale. Good thing, Don't think I could have afforded them...saved me a bit o heartbreak there. Edited June 9, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 9, 2013 Author Share Posted June 9, 2013 Check out this guy's progress on his Mk II body buck. http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/36929-continental-mark-ii-41.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 (edited) After yesterday, I have a second deuce kit to work with...the yellow kit. Virgin, factory tape still on the box. I bought it because it has a flathead in it, for less cost than the flathead resin engine kits alone are selling for & I needed reference material. Last evening, I pulled the engine parts & as I was examining them, it occured to me that I should build this kit alongside my scratch work. The kit will go together more quickly than the scratch build...I can practice & refine all of my detailing skills on it...I can build all of my metal accessory pieces to fit it...headlight bars, engine headers, door handles, brake lights, etc, etc, This way, as the aluminum frame & body pieces are finished, there will be all the other trim items needed for completion of the build. Still have the red kit as well. This will allow me to still have all the individual components in backup if needed for any reason. Happy monday & best to all! Edited June 10, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 (edited) I have instrument grade nitrocelulose lacquer that I use on the guitars. Wanted to see how it will work on the plastic pieces, as I do the kit as a dress rehearsal along-side the sctatch job. As it's an aggressive solvent based paint, I thought perhaps it might attack the plastics, but did not, so all is well. I like the nitro, as it's a very good viscosity for spraying & really lays down flat, leaving the detail of the piece in good shape. My test piece is the chrome transmission case from the kit. I'm doing this project as if I were doing a 1:1 for myself. A chrome transmission for a driver car? I mean, really now... I used black on all these parts in my 1:1 stuff, through the years, for thermodynamic reasons...It pulls heat out of motors, transmissions etc. Then I used cad plated bolts & hardware to add a bit of sparkle for a very nice, "business like" look to my builds. Black is a difficult color to photograph & have any detail show up well, but here it is. Edited June 12, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagedragfan Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 looks pretty sweet to me Ray!! doesn't look like you could ask for much better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro Wrench Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Curious if you stripped the chrome off the plastic first since you didn't mention it. If you didn't, you may want to try that paint of something that isn't chromed just to be sure that the chrome isn't acting as a barrier between the paint and the plastic to protect it from the solvent in the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 (edited) looks pretty sweet to me Ray!! doesn't look like you could ask for much better Holding a bit too much gloss for my taste. The stuff I used on my 1:1's was a semi gloss type material that laid down hard & slick looking, but without the shine & just gave everything the "right" look. I've got a satin sheen clear coat I use on some of my maple necks, going to try that over the black today...or I may just buff em down a bit with an ultra fine scotch brite. Curious if you stripped the chrome off the plastic first since you didn't mention it. If you didn't, you may want to try that paint of something that isn't chromed just to be sure that the chrome isn't acting as a barrier between the paint and the plastic to protect it from the solvent in the paint. No, I didn't strip them, just a good rubdown with a med scotchbrite. Thanks for the heads up, I'll do a test on some unplated material. Edited June 11, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 Some card stock for gasket material under the top plate. Get some bolt heads on it & for a bit more detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 (edited) Using my jewlers saw with a .015" blade, I cut along the molded seam of the oil pan & bottom of block. Motor needs an oil pan gasket to look right. Still looking for the right stuff to realistically model the different types of gasket materials used on these motors. Now looking for good visual referances of where the freeze plugs & other such items are located so they may be added as well. My cuts were accurate enough that the entire shape of the pan flange is retained. Edited June 12, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 (edited) I found this to use as a guide in doing the front of the engine...very good detail. I much prefer the look of the angle drive ignitions over the "crab" distributor that sets down on the front of the engine. So, I mocked up the front, using a toothpick to simulate the location of the water pump belt & scarfed the magneto off of the pontiac engine in the red kit to see if I can make it fit. I think by adding a shaft out of brass tubing to extend it down behind the belt, to the center of the front cover, I can work it all in. Plus, I can shim the pump pulleys out with a washer .030" or so for a bit more clearance, if needed. Due to the location of the front carburetor, the generator has to set off to the side & will have a conflict of space in getting the belt down to the water pump. I'll move it to the other side of the engine, or could fab the front cover magneto housing to place the ignition on the other side...decisions, decisions... Edited June 12, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 (edited) It's mentally refreshing to be doing stuff to the engine, at this time. Needed a diversion from the hum-drum of fitting templates to body parts. I like the big scale stuff, it's easier to see & produce the detail in the work. Cause,...it either looks just like the real thing...or it doesn't look just like the real thing. Edited June 12, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 (edited) Went & got a few rattle cans this morning. Use it on the plastic kit, as the nitro is too expensive when buying tints for making my colors & will be saved for the scratch build. I like this satin black for the driveline components better than the gloss. Satin finish for the car. Ivory/beige on the body & burgandy for wheels & some other pieces. Aluminum to tone down the chrome heads & intake manifold to a more realistic look. Guardedly optomistic that a spray aluminum will give me what I want here. Edited June 12, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 I sprayed the side of the rattle can cap as a test run on the aluminum spray & it looks better than I hoped it would. Actually it looks pretty darn good. It looks more authentic in person than it does in the pics. Buffed the top half down a bit from the sprayed out gloss with a Mr. Clean magic erasure pad that my wife uses on her porcelean & enameled appliances. It's just a very fine foam pad. At a different angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 (edited) Beige & red 32 roadster. The red on this on is not as dark & has considerably more orange than the burgandy I've chosen, but striking, none the less. Edited June 12, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 Was on this site this morning. http://www.scalehardware.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro Wrench Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 FYI, you can strip that chrome off the plastic by soaking the part in bleach. Doesn't hurt the plastic at all and it works pretty quickly. Check the tips and tricks section. There is a thread on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 Thanks, Curt, I'm going to try that on the heads & intake today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 (edited) More front of engine & motor mount detail. Research, research, research. This first picture really clarifies several things for me, in that the motor mount tab is cast into the water pump housing. The front cover/water pumps for the engine in the kit are cast as one piece & I'm going to separate it into individual components for better detail, but until I saw this pic, I was not clear as to how everything's suppose to look. Now I can proceed on that. Edited June 14, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 (edited) I drilled through the lower water pump outlets & then with the appropriate sized drill bits, reached through & marked the front of the engine block for later reference. Cut through the simulated motor mount cushions & separated the water pumps from the engine front cover with the jewlers saw. Edited June 14, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 (edited) If you'll notice in the first pic in post 121, the water pump has an outside bolt. The kit waterpump has no bolt boss cast in this location, so I'll be adding a tab here to accomodate that bolt. Big-n-littles, a hot rod staple, in 2 configs, Goodyear & Firestone. Once again, this model project is to represent how I would do a 1:1 for myself. It would be fitted with radial tires for the handling characteristics & eventually the scratch build will carry radial tires. But these are plenty good on this one, for now. Interestingly enough, the steel wheels in the kit are the same rim widths as the chrome alloys, so the big rear Goodyears look right at home on them. Steelies it is, until I get some wires for it. Going to get them painted this weekend & see how I like the burgundy on actual parts. Edited June 14, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 nice !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 15, 2013 Author Share Posted June 15, 2013 (edited) Thanks, Richard. I had a thought...I've been "prepping" my parts for paint with a medium scotchbrite pad & noticed how it's difficult to get the glaze broken in some of the small tight corners for good adhesion. I did some reading on soda blasting...baking soda has an abrasive quality about it...going to try pouring some soda in a tray & using a variety of sizes & shapes of stiffish bristle brushes to scrub the soda into the corners... I used the bleach method, as suggested by Curt, to strip the chrome off of the heads & intake & it worked beautifully. The parts came out of the bleach with a very slick shiny finish, so now I've been wondering how to get down in between the fins on the heads for good paint prep & am going to try the soda & brush method to see how it works. Edited June 15, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.