1:8 scratch deuce

[Ognib]

This one has a real strong vibe about it that I like as well.

[RAT-T]

Found this

http://eastwood.com/tig-welders-eastwood-tig-ac-dc-welder.html

ac/dc, footpedal, high frequency start, square wave inverter.

Best price I've found with all the desired features.

Good user reviews on value & quality for price.

HI RAY,

EASTWOOD DOES SELL SOME GOOD PRODUCTS, BUT I WOULD RECOMMEND YOU DEAL WITH A LOCAL WELDING SUPPLY STORE,

[Ognib]

Hi Tom,

I agree.

I prefer to do my business locally & buy a brand of equipment where parts & service are readily available, but since this is a hobby I really have to consider the best price/value available & check out all the options.

I'm also trolling CL etc in hopes of finding a good used unit at a reduced cost.

This is probably where the best bang for the buck will come from.

Just have to be patient till the deal I'm looking for comes along.

In the meantime, I'm looking for a 1:8 32 3 window to use for pulling templates for the body buck, so I can get started on that as well.

Edited April 30, 2013 by Ognib

[Ognib]

Check this out.

[vintagedragfan]

yea, Wingrove was definitely an inspiration for me to say the least!!

[Ognib]

Especially in the part where it shows the body/fender bucks, how he does his tucks for gathering/shrinking, the annealing process to keep his material workable...good stuff!

[Ognib]

A ride in an old school hot rod roadster.

Note his cutting donuts in the parking lot, about half way through the vid.

Set em up right & drive em hard.

[Ognib]

Heres a thread on the hobby shop building of a 1:1 deuce frame.

He's doing it by shaping & jigging up the sides & welding the top & bottom edges in place, as I'm doing on my 1:8.

His full frame jig though simple, seems to have done a good job of holding everything accurately in place during the welding process.

Beautiful piece of work, when completed...check it out.

The concept for my 1:8 project calls for a traditional flathead engine, so I won't be boxing the rails as he did, in keeping with the vintage vibe I want for it.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?s=440014ddfa8fe3fed3f59f9f14a35fed&t=671187

Edited May 1, 2013 by Ognib

[sjordan2]

3 and 5 window coupe bodies here...

http://www.edeuce.com/products.html

I think you could find some built examples at scalemotorcars.com

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/general-discussion/26794-wanted-1-8-scale-3-window-resin-body-big-deuce.html

Edited May 1, 2013 by sjordan2

[Ognib]

Thanks for the links, Skip.

Much appreciated.

Still a lot of stuff out there in the model world that I'm not yet aware of.

[dpride]

Ray, the first thing I would suggest is to find somewhere you can test weld some aluminum with someone who has training with tig.

The grade is also important as some (machine grades) are not considered weldable. If you are using scrap, you will have to identify the material.

6061 is a common structural grade and is good to weld. The type of welder that RAT-T suggested has the features you will want.

For a novice to attempt tig welding a full chassis as a first project is ambitious. Tig is a totally new ball game compared to stick or mig.

How do I know.............I've been welding for 46 years.

I'm not trying to put you off, just see what is involved first.

[Ognib]

Hi David, thanks for your response.

The first time I had a need to cut & inlay pearl on a guitar headstock, I practiced on extra materials for close to 3 months before even daring to proceed to the actual project.

Very big on practice until I begin to get the feel & the eye for it, when learning new skills.

I have a friend who owns a large metal salvage business & he has mountains of aluminum that I can dig through & buy for scrap prices.

Still not yet sure how to specifically identify the different alloys.

My frame pieces are cut from a piece of angle that I split...looks like it's an extruded product.

When I bent it to fit into the assembly jig, it bent easily...I could feel it yielding to the pressure as I bent it over my thumb & held it's shape very well, with almost no spring-back...quite pliable.

If I remember my reading correctly, seems like the -00 designation is almost pure alum & is dead soft??

Was thinking probably that would be the best for forming the body panels & need less annealing as the work progresses??

And, once again if i'm remembering correctly, is good for welding.

Any and all advice & recomendations is greatly appreciated as I pick up speed on this project, thanks.

Edited May 2, 2013 by Ognib

[Ognib]

^{Here's a series of vids I've been studying.}

[dpride]

If you want to attain the standard with the model you have reached with the guitars, I would consider using brass................But if you still want to go aluminum...

Consider the solders available for aluminum which would be easier than tig... look on youtube for aluminum soldering.

As to identifying the different alloys, very difficult! I always write (marker) or stamp the grade on the offcuts. If you are serious about welding and forming parts for the model, then I would suggest

buying new material for the important parts.....do a lot of testing with the cheap scrap first.

For the body, check Gerald Wingrove's models.

Got a website for the guitars? I have building and playing for about as long as I have been welding. Of the 9 instruments I have at home, only one is "standard"

[Ognib]

Here's a link to a big bodied, full hollow jazz box I did.

Close to 400 pics showing neck build, side bending, carving top & back plates, molds & jigs.

Been playing it about 3 yrs now.

http://s127.photobucket.com/user/meandi_photos/library/#/user/meandi_photos/library/archtop?sort=3&page=1&_suid=136754592781202277313854704172

A knock-off of a vox teardrop that Brian jones played early on with the stones.

It's still in the works.

http://s127.photobucket.com/user/meandi_photos/library/#/user/meandi_photos/library/teardrop?sort=3&page=1&_suid=136754607906203740468866754371

A PRS that I did for a friend last summer.

Stripped the rosewood board & fabbed a 1/4 sawn maple board with inlaid purpleheart accent line & position markers.

http://s127.photobucket.com/user/meandi_photos/library/#/user/meandi_photos/library/petesprs?sort=3&page=1&_suid=136754654539005929041432994939

I really appreciate you being willing to take the time to counsel me on my project!

Tapping the experience of others can go a long way towards shortening a learning curve.

I noticed on your twin engine coupe that you did the frame in steel.

What would be your thoughts on using steel vs aluminum on my build.

By everyone's admission, welding steel is vastly easier than alum & I welded steel on a daily basis for over 30 yrs, which would accelerate my progress on this.

I don't know...I mean...I really want to approach this from a different tangent/perspective...just to see if I can do it.

Not looking for a guarantee of success in it, just the challenge of doing it & the learning process of new skills is the best part of it all!

Edited May 3, 2013 by Ognib

[dpride]

Nice work on the guitars, I can relate to a lot of the setups you have pictured.

I used steel in my build because it's 1/4 scale and I wanted it strong. Steel is cheap and easy to fabricate.

If you are determined to do something different, then go for it. I would suggest getting a load of scrap and making a few pieces that emulate the shapes you want to produce and

put them together. Clean the oxide layer off just before you weld or solder. Even the oil from your fingers will effect the join. There are probably a lot of people on this forum with

more knowledge on this subject than me, I will only convey what I know has worked for me.

Post pictures off your efforts.

[Ognib]

The ultimate in realism.

Ferrari with running engine & functioning drive train.

His name is Pierre Scerri.

I believe the scale he builds in is 1:3.

Here's an aluminum body shell for a 250 GTO he's doing.

Can still identify where the seams are welded & being metal finished.

This personifies the level of realism I am aspiring to here.

Edited May 4, 2013 by Ognib

[Ognib]

Old school coachwork going on here.

Edited May 5, 2013 by Ognib

[dpride]

Looks like the guys are building a 1/4 scale car in your photographs.

I have made a lot of compound shapes over the years and while most of it was 1:1 car and cycle stuff, it still relates to doing the same in model form. This car has a sheet aluminum grill shell and hood. It was to be molded and made in fiberglass. Made with hardwood oval shaped mallet and sandbag. I wimped out and did the rest in plastic sheet and putty.

[sjordan2]

Looks like the guys are building a 1/4 scale car in your photographs.

I have made a lot of compound shapes over the years and while most of it was 1:1 car and cycle stuff, it still relates to doing the same in model form. This car has a sheet aluminum grill shell and hood. It was to be molded and made in fiberglass. Made with hardwood oval shaped mallet and sandbag. I wimped out and did the rest in plastic sheet and putty.

M-3.jpg

Gorgeous. Somewhere between a Bugatti Atlantic and a Jaguar SS100 coupe. What scale is it (I can't tell from the way you describe it)? Is it available on the market?

Edited May 6, 2013 by sjordan2

[Ognib]

That's hot!

The look & positioning of the tires/rims...I'm seeing a nascar road course style cage chassis under the skin.

[Ognib]

I attended my first meeting of the KC slammers modeling club last evening.

Thanks to Bill Davis for inviting me.

During the course of the evening I was introduced to a guy who has been in the hobby for 30ish yrs, I think he said, & is very into 1:8 deuces.

He invited me to his home afterwards & showed me his very extensive collection of finished pieces & works in progress.

Gave me a great deal on a 1:8 deuce kit to help me jump start my project..

So now I have all the parts to measure for working drawings & pulling templates for bucks over which to form the sheet metal panels on my build.

I'll get some pics up later.

Edited May 8, 2013 by Ognib

[Danno]

Mindbending. Good luck with the project; will be watching!

[Ognib]

Extra set of front fenders as well as a spare rt rear.

Contour guage will be used to pull shapes from model parts & transferred to 1/8 underlayment plywood & this used for shaping the panel bucks.

Going to need a longer guage.

Could be a barn find, all dusty & crusty looking.

My first focus is to gently disassemble the frame for access to the crossmembers for measuring etc for build drawings.

A couple of the old glue joints have come apart already, so hoping I can get this done with no damage.

Mindbending. Good luck with the project; will be watching!

Thanks, Danno.

Edited May 8, 2013 by Ognib

[GoatGuy]

Wow, what a project. I'll be watching to see your progress.