1:8 scratch deuce

[Ognib]

Thanks, Greg.

As you know, it's just a matter of staying after it until you get the proportion that works.

[Danno]

Good stuff.

[Ognib]

Thanks, Danno.

The beginnings of coil overs.

Prototyping for size, right now.

Frame will get a twin tube crossmember .

Something like this.

Edited July 23, 2013 by Ognib

[Ognib]

Starting to pick up on a vibe for the car, as it shows me what it wants to be.

[Ognib]

Under body that's channeled the depth of the rails.

[vintagedragfan]

I think it wants to be a hot rod Ray!! nice progress buddy, looks as though you are figuring some things out, all ways a good feeling!

[baddgass]

Very very cool work.

[Ognib]

Thanks guys.

Like I said yesterday, the car's taken on it's own vibe here, so I gotta follow through.

Used the plastic as a bending template for the solder.

I like the solder for initial shaping, it's very compliant & forgiving in free-hand shaping, yet strong enough to hold it's shape for fitting & mock-up.

I'll shape a bending jig, off of the solder pattern, out of some plywood for the aluminum.

Actual axle will be in probably 1/4" material which will scale up to 2".

And put it under this, on a similar set of coil overs, as what's going on the back of the car.

Edited July 25, 2013 by Ognib

[Ognib]

My bending fixture that I built.

First bend up from the lower "smile" of the axle is made & then the pin is set & held, while the second bend is made around it.

Black mark is the approximate cut line for locating the king pin boss.

Edited July 29, 2013 by Ognib

[Ognib]

The other end was done with a pocket to verify the positioning of the first set of bends, while the other end is being bent.

Several hours invested in conceptualizing, layout & shaping of the jig to assure an accurate, visually balanced piece...the bending time, to this point, less than two minutes.

Edited July 29, 2013 by Ognib

[Ognib]

_{Bent a pair of them, for just in case.}

_{Between the area of the king pin bosses, I can flip them end for end & they still stack straight, indicating continuity of shape between the ends.}

Edited July 29, 2013 by Ognib

[Ognib]

Laid out the king pin centerlines off of the plastic piece.

Found the visual balance points, marked the tube, & cut it slightly over size.

Ya, that looks better.

[vintagedragfan]

I like it Ray, looks great,nice job with the fixture!

[crazyrichard]

sweet !!!

[Ognib]

Thanks, guys.

Still using the plastic axle as a template, I set up an assembly jig to hold the kingpin bosses in proper position while the tube axle is fishmouthed to a good fit.

[Old Sprinter]

You're really getting good at this. Fun stuff, huh?

[Ognib]

Thanks, Ken.

Real fun stuff...and a most worthy challenge to make it all come together properly.

The most challenging thing about this, was having it, not only fit properly, but do so with both sholders on the top side being in the same tangent of the radius of the bend when they join the kingpin boss.

This is essential so their is visual symetry when viewed from the front.

Edited July 30, 2013 by Ognib

[Ognib]

Build jig for the spindles.

The 6 1/8 dimension on this axle is identical to the same measurment on the plastic axle.

This makes me smile.

I welcome all critiques & comments.

Edited July 31, 2013 by Ognib

[RAT-T]

LOOKS GREAT RAY, WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO USE TO ATTATCH THE SPINDLE BOSSES TO THE AXLE?

[Ognib]

Thanks, Tom.

I stuck it together with super glue before removing it from the assembly jig.

I use a product that I get from my lutherie supply house that I'm quite impressed with.

My plan, from early on, after watching a guy tig weld a .003" coca cola can with no blow through, is to tig the thing together.

I don't use credit cards, so until I accumulate the cash for a welder I'm using this.

After having done several strength tests on aluminum, I feel confident that It will allow me to proceed with shaping & fitting all of the parts without everying falling apart in my lap.

Acetone is an excellent de-bonder for this glue, so when the welder shows up, simple matter to prep the parts for welding.

I'm keeping all of my jigs intact to simplify the weld up at that time.

[vintagedragfan]

looks great Ray, such a great feeling when it starts to look like something! nice job on the axle!!

[Ognib]

Thank you, Bill, it feels great when it starts taking shape!

David Pride suggested a while back that the headers would look more to scale if I upped the header tube size to 3/16=1 1/2 at scale.

I agree with him on this & appreciate his willingness to be straight forward & mention it to me, so took a break off of the front axle & bent up a header this morning.

Another build jig, holds everything secure & in place while shaping...even is sturdy enough to do slight tweaks with the pipe in place.

Bending posts help maintain continuity of radius.

Plus, the aluminum is stiff enough, I can't bend it around my thumb like when working with the solder.

Edited August 1, 2013 by Ognib

[Ognib]

I feel pretty good about this piece.

I wanted the outside pipes to come off the engine at similar angles for a graceful intersection with the middle pipe.

Still have to finish shaping the block plate.

Was waiting untill the tubes were in place for best visual balance.

However the collector can is ridiculuously out of scale, reguardless of the fact that it's i.d. fits the tube bundle perfectly.

It has a .034" wall, which scales up to around 1/4"...way too thick for a header collector.

Needs to be more like .010" or so.

Looks like I'll have to roll my own tube on this one.

Edited August 2, 2013 by Ognib

[crazyrichard]

oooh yeahh , awsome work on the front axle and headers !!!!!!!

[Ognib]

Thank you, Richard.

Glad you're enjoying the presentation.

I'm having a ton of fun doing it!

I just love to build things.

.016" scales up to .128" or a strong 1/8.

Sounds about right.

The diameter that fits the tube bundle at the end of the header is 27/64.

Took the steel in that size out of a center punch set.

Wrapped the .016 around the steel by hand as tightly as I could, trimmed the tube material from the sheet.

Set the clamps loosely around it & began slowly tightening them, while at the same time, working the aluminum on to the rod with a small nylon faced, dead blow hammer.