Glue help!

[RacinRay88]

Hi all, for my models I usually use a fast setting model super glue 'Extreme Power : Thick' but it causes a "frosting" effect which is a problem on painted pieces... Can anyone point me in the right direction for some good quality glue that won't frost on painted parts? Thanks a lot

-Ray

[Ramfins59]

Try using non-frosting CA glue. You should be able to get it at your LHS.

[RacinRay88]

Try using non-frosting CA glue. You should be able to get it at your LHS.

why have I never thought to look for 'non frosting' haha I figured it was the nature of the beast. Thanks a lot

[Blown03SVT]

It is the nature of the beast.The glue gives off gases as it cures. Some less than others. Seems everyone has their own brand they like to use. I typically use the stuff you can buy anywhere... Gorilla Glue brand, and some light weight brushable stuff made by Permatex that purple and goes clear as it cures. For me those two brand rarely fog, I use them for 80% of my assembly and the other 20% is usually 5 minute epoxy and Tenax. Once in a blue moon I use Testors liquid or Ambroid tube glue but that is for certain situations.

[slusher]

l am old fashion l still use Testors orange tube glue...

[Tom Geiger]

I use Zap-A-Gap on almost everything. It's a thicker slow drying CA glue. I like the slower drying since it gives you a chance to position things before it's set for life. You can get it at the hobby shop or Michaels for about $4.50. I even used my 50% off coupon the last time. For clear plastic windows, I'll use a white glue or two sided scrap book tape. I never put CA near clear.

[AzTom]

Hi all, for my models I usually use a fast setting model super glue 'Extreme Power : Thick' but it causes a "frosting" effect which is a problem on painted pieces... Can anyone point me in the right direction for some good quality glue that won't frost on painted parts? Thanks a lot

-Ray

Get the accelerator for super glue. It will put a crust over the joint instantly. It will take a little longer for the joint to gain full strength but it works great.

Another advantage using the accelerator is put a dab of accelerator on one piece and a dap of glue on the other, when they touch it's instant. I found this great on items like mirrors. Just make sure you have it lined up correctly.

[sjordan2]

We need a glue tutorial that can be pinned. I know I would like a reference to see what works best for what application, in one place.

[cchapman195]

Get the accelerator for super glue. It will put a crust over the joint instantly. It will take a little longer for the joint to gain full strength but it works great.

Another advantage using the accelerator is put a dab of accelerator on one piece and a dap of glue on the other, when they touch it's instant. I found this great on items like mirrors. Just make sure you have it lined up correctly.

Dr. Cranky has a video showing all types of glues and there applications.

Hope this helps. Also I use Testors High Gloss Clear for emblems and small parts on painted parts. It dries clear and shiny to match whats underneath it.

[MoparWoman Jamie]

Are you using the Super Glue Gel type?

[zenrat]

Is it only me or does all this use of superglue take something away from the model building process?

Maybe i'm old fashioned but I kind of like having time to set up and adjust parts and then leave them to set. It's part of model building in my book.

Sure, i'll use superglue gel occasionally (wiring engines mostly) when I really need instantish grab and use a lot of 5 minute epoxy but I feel that for a good, strong structural join you can't beat styrene cement welding the 2 parts together. Even if it takes a day or 2 to set completely.

Anyway, to answer the question. 5 minute epoxy on painted parts and Microscale Crystal Clear on "glass".

[Blown03SVT]

It doesn't really cut down on assembly time in my opinion. It seems to be a must for some of the warped kits I have had lately to help straighten them out during mock up and final assembly

[Tom Geiger]

Is it only me or does all this use of superglue take something away from the model building process?

Maybe i'm old fashioned but I kind of like having time to set up and adjust parts and then leave them to set. It's part of model building in my book.

Sure, i'll use superglue gel occasionally (wiring engines mostly) when I really need instantish grab and use a lot of 5 minute epoxy but I feel that for a good, strong structural join you can't beat styrene cement welding the 2 parts together. Even if it takes a day or 2 to set completely.

Anyway, to answer the question. 5 minute epoxy on painted parts and Microscale Crystal Clear on "glass".

If you want the time to set up and adjust parts, try Zap-a-Gap CA glue. It's a bit thicker than normal CA and it's supposed to fill in small gaps between parts. I use it as my every day glue because I like the fact that it doesn't grab immediately. I don't use two parts because I don't think it's warranted and would be wasteful since I tend to use a little dab of glue at a time. The Zap is plenty strong enough, and I do pin a lot of my parts together anyway.

I also use the Microscale Crystal clear on glass, but lately I've been using a very narrow clear two sided tape.

[zenrat]

Superglue is also brittle and can't take the twist and shear forces that a good styrene cement join can.

Forces you sometimes have to apply to get an interior tub into a body for example.

[ERIK88]

Gorilla superglue non gel kind is really good way better than the testors BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH