Beginner mods to '10 Model T?

[clovis]

And, I am curious...

If I decide to build the frame from stock, and ditch the faux body that came with the kit, what size of C-channel should I buy for this 1/16 kit?

If the real 1:1 had a frame that was 5 inches tall, would I buy 5/16" C-Channel?

Edited July 16, 2013 by clovis

[Harry P.]

BTW, I am thinking about painting the body of my 1910 Model T in white. (Yikes!!!!)

Would the underside of the fenders have been white, like the body, or should they be black? If they are to be black, flat or gloss?

Ford never offered Model Ts in white, so a white one would represent a car that the owner had painted after the fact. And since the owner painted it, there is no "should" regarding the color of the underside of the fenders. Either our fictitious owner painted them white or he left them in the original body color (which in 1910 would have been either dark blue, dark green, gray or black).

[Harry P.]

And, I am curious...

If I decide to build the frame from stock, and ditch the faux body that came with the kit, what size of C-channel should I buy for this 1/16 kit?

If the real 1:1 had a frame that was 5 inches tall, would I buy 5/16" C-Channel?

It should be 1/16 the size of the real car's frame channels.

[sjordan2]

You may find these links to be useful, relating to a 1/8 scratch build in brass of the Gilmore Museum racer that Art Anderson posted above.

This is the build thread (152 pages):

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/2592-article-1-8th-scale-model-t-racer-build-journal.html

This is a limited gallery of the build with some reference:

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=685

Here is the book he wrote on "Model Building with Brass," which features the Model T:

http://www.amazon.com/Model-Building-Brass-Kenneth-Foran/dp/0764340042/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1373991236&sr=1-1&keywords=kenneth+c.+foran

You might also see if it's possible to rob some parts from Lindberg's 1/16 1914 Stutz racer or 1914 Mercedes racer.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1914-Stutz-Racer-1-16th-Scale-Model-Kit-by-Lindberg-1977-/310703688058?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item485762097a

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1914-Mercedes-Racer-1-16-scale-skill-3-Lindberg-plastic-model-kit-72338-/380645141051?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item58a037ea3b

Here are some computer drawings of a 1913 racerr. You'll have to ask Art Anderson if he overhead cam is period-correct.

http://www.gouldstudios.com/museum_thumb_cars_1913_Dirt_Track_Racer.html

Edited July 16, 2013 by sjordan2

[Art Anderson]

And, I am curious...

If I decide to build the frame from stock, and ditch the faux body that came with the kit, what size of C-channel should I buy for this 1/16 kit?

If the real 1:1 had a frame that was 5 inches tall, would I buy 5/16" C-Channel?

Jeff,

A Model T Ford frame has side rails that are approximately 3" deep from the front crossmember back to perhaps 3 feet forward of the rear crossmember, the bottom flange of the channel steel angling slightly upward to perhaps 2" deep at where the rear crossmember was riveted to them. In 1/16 scale, than means that the frame rails would be 3/16" high at their thickest point (when viewed from the side) tapering to approximately 1/8 inch tall at the rear crossmember.

The trouble with channel section materials is--the stuff isn't readily available in brass anymore. K&S used to have several sizes of brass channel stock in their assortments, but that went away several years ago. The section of the channel steel frame rails on a T is fairly deep--with flanges that are approximately two inches wide top and bottom.

If made in styrene, such channel rails might be a little bit too flimsy, so perhaps you could build a frame against the bottom of the kit "floor" perhaps?

Art

[clovis]

Harry,

Thank you for your continued help. I appreciate it it very much.

What color did you paint the engine block and tranny assembly?

I have a dark gray primer down.

What brand, and what sheen? Gloss, satin, or flat?

I've also been working on the gas tank. How did you get yours to look like a brand new steel tank?

[Harry P.]

I used these photos that I found doing a google search as my references. Looks like the basic engine assembly was painted a semigloss black. As you can see in the last photo, the engine in the foreground has a different color on the trans, the engine in back is all black. My guess is that the engine in the foreground is restored incorrectly (or to the current owner's personal preference). My guess would be that the block and trans were all painted the same semi-gloss black. Henry Ford wasn't big on fancy-schmancy... I can't think of any practical reason why Ford would have painted the transmission a different color than the rest of the engine.

For the gas tank, I glued the halves together with liquid cement, which actually melts and fuses the plastic. I sanded off the molded-in mounting straps, used a little Bondo to fill the seam and sanded everything smooth. Then just painted it and made new mounting straps from real brass strip. I liked the look of the unpainted brass so I left my straps bare brass... that is technically incorrect, as those straps would have been painted body color on a real T. But I liked the look of the brass, so I left them bare.

[clovis]

Jeff,

A Model T Ford frame has side rails that are approximately 3" deep from the front crossmember back to perhaps 3 feet forward of the rear crossmember, the bottom flange of the channel steel angling slightly upward to perhaps 2" deep at where the rear crossmember was riveted to them. In 1/16 scale, than means that the frame rails would be 3/16" high at their thickest point (when viewed from the side) tapering to approximately 1/8 inch tall at the rear crossmember.

The trouble with channel section materials is--the stuff isn't readily available in brass anymore. K&S used to have several sizes of brass channel stock in their assortments, but that went away several years ago. The section of the channel steel frame rails on a T is fairly deep--with flanges that are approximately two inches wide top and bottom.

If made in styrene, such channel rails might be a little bit too flimsy, so perhaps you could build a frame against the bottom of the kit "floor" perhaps?

Art

Thank you, Art.

There is a squared facsimile of a frame on the bottom of the body, but it isn't much, and it certainly isn't realistic. A modeler with a better skill set than I have could easily whip out a frame for this kit.

I still might look at the Evergreen the next time I'm at the LHS.

Thank you again for your helpful posts!!!!!

this is a fun reference book:

the downside is that the printing is so darn small. interestingly, wooden spars were carved and wired to the tie rods to cut down on cavitation. lots of good info for early ford speedsters.

Thank you so much!!!!!! I appreciate it!!!!!