DEBATE! Is 2K clear coat worth the health risk.

[Bruno]

So, let's see. I can do some work on a "hobby clear" to get what seems to be a more realistic, in-scale finish. I guess that means polishing and waxing. Or, I can spend a lotta money to get paints and other related, necessary chemicals that were really never meant to be used by hobbyists as well as the necessary equipment to protect myself and the environment to obtain what seems to be a grossly out-of-scale, over-the-top gloss finish that is rarely seen even in the world of 1:1 showcars...

I think I'll stick with the basics, thank you. This hobby gets way too complex as it is. Who needs more?

No, as others already said in this thread, you will actually spend less money for a better quality clear, true urethane clear was never meant to be used by hobbyists, but then again, I don't know about you, but me, I do use a lot of things that was not meant to be used by hobbyists on my builds... And if done right, it will not be out of scale. Gloss finish that is rarely seen in the 1:1 world? Just go out and look at all the cars around; 98% of those cars have urethane clear on them.

[zenrat]

Didn't see that bit Bill.

Thanks.

[johnbuzzed]

No, as others already said in this thread, you will actually spend less money for a better quality clear, true urethane clear was never meant to be used by hobbyists, but then again, I don't know about you, but me, I do use a lot of things that was not meant to be used by hobbyists on my builds... And if done right, it will not be out of scale. Gloss finish that is rarely seen in the 1:1 world? Just go out and look at all the cars around; 98% of those cars have urethane clear on them.

It's a matter of opinion and here, you and I can choose to disagree. Let's leave it at that.

[sportandmiah]

What say ye about airbrushing 2k clear in a basement workshop? The shop is drywalled and sealed almost every crack with spray foam. I use a 3M mask and a Pace Spray Booth vented to the outside.

My question is this: Is the workshop safe hours later after I've painted? Will it be safe for me without a mask?

[Ace-Garageguy]

What say ye about airbrushing 2k clear in a basement workshop? The shop is drywalled and sealed almost every crack with spray foam. I use a 3M mask and a Pace Spray Booth vented to the outside.

My question is this: Is the workshop safe hours later after I've painted? Will it be safe for me without a mask?

Leave the fan running in the booth until you can't smell any paint odor anymore without the mask, and you'll be fine. To get enough airflow, you'll need to at least crack a door or window on the side of the room opposite the booth.

[Chief Joseph]

So I suppose I'll ask the $64,000 question: do any of you guys who are using 2-part urethane clear have any asthma problems? Or any other kinds of breathing problems? Because that's how sensitization to isocyanates manifests itself in the beginning. Then one day you'll get a whiff of the activator and have an asthma attack that kills you...

[Chief Joseph]

Leave the fan running in the booth until you can't smell any paint odor anymore without the mask, and you'll be fine. To get enough airflow, you'll need to at least crack a door or window on the side of the room opposite the booth.

If you can smell the paint odor from urethane paint, you are inhaling the isocyanates. Even if you don't smell any paint odor, you could still be inhaling isocyanates. Spraying 2-part paint inside any dwelling, no matter how well it's vented, is just not a good idea.

[Ace-Garageguy]

If you can smell the paint odor from urethane paint, you are inhaling the isocyanates. Even if you don't smell any paint odor, you could still be inhaling isocyanates. Spraying 2-part paint inside any dwelling, no matter how well it's vented, is just not a good idea.

Absolutely correct.

BUT, he asked about HOURS after he's painted anything, and IF an exhaust fan (which he says he has in his little booth, vented to the outside) can produce sufficient negative pressure in the painting room (or workshop in this case) to prevent fumes from getting into the rest of the house, there's really no issue SO LONG AS THE EXHAUST FAN IS ALLOWED TO RUN until all of the vapors have been cleared and the material has hardened to the point where it no longer smells. Run the booth fan for hours.

As far as smelling the isos goes, you're right... you can't usually smell the isos, but after you mix them with the paint, you can smell the paint. I mean, think about it. If you can't smell the paint anymore and the hardener container is closed, the paint HAS to be hardened to the point where it's not outgassing isos, right?

If you want to live forever and have the LEAST WORRY ABOUT THIS STUFF, DON'T USE IT.

So I suppose I'll ask the $64,000 question: do any of you guys who are using 2-part urethane clear have any asthma problems? Or any other kinds of breathing problems? Because that's how sensitization to isocyanates manifests itself in the beginning. Then one day you'll get a whiff of the activator and have an asthma attack that kills you...

I've been painting 1:1s with this stuff since 1980 or so, using the correct safety procedures (after the first time...story above), and so far I have no related health issues. For the most part I'm as healthy as a horse.

And I've posted links above to the real information regarding sensitization, exposure limits, etc., according to OSHA and the California Dept. of Health.

ONE MORE TIME: IF YOU'RE WORRIED ABOUT IT, don't use it.

Edited July 20, 2013 by Ace-Garageguy

[Harry P.]

I think the biggest problem with these catalyzed paints is that too many model builders use them too casually. Sure, there are those that take the proper precautions, but really taking the proper precautions is a big deal and involves quite a bit of effort and equipment.

"Hobby" paints, or even automotive paints like DupliColor, are sold primarily for use by amateurs, not professional painters. Sure they're still toxic to some extent, but a whiff of Testors or Tamiya every so often will probably not cause anyone any serious harm. You don't want to make a habit of sniffing fumes, you still want to paint either in a ventilated booth or outdoors... but odds are you're not risking your life using "hobby" paints. Two-part paints, on the other hand, are not meant to be used casually... they are meant to be used by professional painters who have the proper professional equipment needed to safely use them.

I don't think my health is worth risking for the sake of a model car. I'll leave the professional paint to the professional painters.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Harry's exactly right.

[Chief Joseph]

Yep. I hope that this discussion has caused some guys to re-think the way they use 2-part paint and if they've been a little cavalier with the safety, they'll take extra precautions. Maybe this thread should be a sticky.

[martinfan5]

I think the biggest problem with these catalyzed paints is that too many model builders use them too casually. Sure, there are those that take the proper precautions, but really taking the proper precautions is a big deal and involves quite a bit of effort and equipment.

"Hobby" paints, or even automotive paints like DupliColor, are sold primarily for use by amateurs, not professional painters. Sure they're still toxic to some extent, but a whiff of Testors or Tamiya every so often will probably not cause anyone any serious harm. You don't want to make a habit of sniffing fumes, you still want to paint either in a ventilated booth or outdoors... but odds are you're not risking your life using "hobby" paints. Two-part paints, on the other hand, are not meant to be used casually... they are meant to be used by professional painters who have the proper professional equipment needed to safely use them.

I don't think my health is worth risking for the sake of a model car. I'll leave the professional paint to the professional painters.

Well said Harry