Cosmetic Airbrush setup or Traditional airbrush

[my80malibu]

There are quite a few Cosmetic AB's advertised on Auction, and other list sites, for low money. Would they work for what we do here?

[zenrat]

I'm thinking the solvents present in paint might be an issue.

[my80malibu]

What does that have to do with this subject? I am asking about airbrushes. To be used for painting a plastic model. Not for applying a Tan on a plastic model.

[Erik Smith]

You would have to be more specific on what the cosmetic air brushes are - brand, etc. Most cosmetic air brushes are the same as any other - they generally have smaller capacity for nails and finer nozzles…but there are a lot of variables. Make sure they are suited for solvent based paints.

I would bet they are the same air burshes sold for any purpose, just targeting a specific customer with the wording.

[Danno]

Much like Dremel. The same cordless battery-operated tool they sold as a hobby tool was also available for golfers as a club-cleaning tool but in different color and packaging . . . and a "different" price! Same tool, different market.

[Brett Barrow]

Generally, they're gravity-feed with very small paint reservoirs. Nothing really different from normal airbrushes internally, they're just marketed for cosmetics. You'd probably have to stop and refill the reservoir several times to paint a body. Most of them come with a low pressure/low volume compressor that's based on a fish-tank pump (same as cake-decorating airbrushes). Not really strong enough to move the volume of air and paint we need to paint models, even if you use the "Norbie Method" with low pressure (~10-15 psi) they still don't put out enough volume of air.

My rule has always been to buy name-brand airbrushes, because you know you can get parts for them. I've owned pretty much every major brand of airbrush (Iwata, Badger, Paasche, Aztek, et al.) and I don't recommend one brand over the other, they all work fine if you clean them and take care of them and learn each one's idiosyncrasies. They'll all break, and they'll all need parts replaced sooner or later.

[my80malibu]

Much like Dremel. The same cordless battery-operated tool they sold as a hobby tool was also available for golfers as a club-cleaning tool but in different color and packaging . . . and a "different" price! Same tool, different market.

This is what I wanted to convey, the idea that If we can get an AB setup for under a hundred dollars. For someone who is just beginning in the hobby. Would it work? I dont have access to one of these cosmetic/tanning AB's, I have a Badger 200, and a MAC double action, along with a NEO. None of them were Expensive until you factored in the cost of the Compressor. Which was close to a hundred dollars on it's own.

Brett Barrow,

Generally, they're gravity-feed with very small paint reservoirs. Nothing really different from normal airbrushes internally, they're just marketed for cosmetics. You'd probably have to stop and refill the reservoir several times to paint a body. Most of them come with a low pressure/low volume compressor that's based on a fish-tank pump (same as cake-decorating airbrushes). Not really strong enough to move the volume of air and paint we need to paint models, even if you use the "Norbie Method" with low pressure (~10-15 psi) they still don't put out enough volume of air.

My rule has always been to buy name-brand airbrushes, because you know you can get parts for them. I've owned pretty much every major brand of airbrush (Iwata, Badger, Paasche, Aztek, et al.) and I don't recommend one brand over the other, they all work fine if you clean them and take care of them and learn each one's idiosyncrasies. They'll all break, and they'll all need parts replaced sooner or later.

Brett has brought up a very good point in that, possibly the compressors used in Cosmetic AB's do not produce enough air volume. That may be true, however I have seen cosmetic brushes with both large and small resevoir cups

[Skip]

Another factor might be the airbrush's tip size, nails aren't a very big target so you wouldn't need a very wide spray pattern. Probably be great for detail painting but not a full paint job.

What sort of price range are you thinking? That alone is going to dictate the compressor and airbrush that you end up with. Stay away from the Chinese made no name airbrushes on eBay, you will not be able to find parts (or service) when you need them so they are pretty much a throwaway.

The cheapest airbrush in my arsenal is a couple of Harbor Freight Deluxe Airbrushes, with a little tuning they work fine, even for detail work. They won't do the job that my Badger, Paascche or Iwata airbrushes do nor can you expect them to. I've used the HF Deluxe on customer's sign work and cars (I know other sign guys who use them too). You have to remember that they are a throw away too. Something like that will get you started, get you used to cleaning and maintaining an AB, they certainly are a better AB than Badgger siphon feed and a can. I would also consider the Harbor Freight AB compressors as a low end starter, figure on replacing both down the road. They will get you started on better paint jobs than rattle cans deliver.

By tuning, I mean breaking down the AB, making sure the needle is straight, polish the needle with fine grit (600 - 800) paper, check tip for splits or other imperfections under 10X magnification. Read up on airbrush tune up on the web there are all kinds of articles out there. Also think about picking up a copy of Airbrush Action magazine, educate yourself (and drool) on what's out there, be aware they will be pushing mostly high end brushes, it'll give you some ideas though.

Edited December 21, 2013 by Skip