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Everything posted by Skip

  1. Did this about a year ago on a '53 F100 commission build. I used the 6 out of the Mobius Ford F100 pickup (eBay engine only), to replicate the earlier Ford 215" engine. First you will need to cut the block from the bellhousing plate and reverse ends so that the Intake, exhaust and ignition system is all on the right sides. If you are careful slicing the bellhousing end plate off of the engine block there should only be a little flat sheet and a tiny bit of filler added to the front of the block to square things up for the front cover. I think I also had to reverse the direction of th
  2. Bingo! I have had excellent results using my Ultrasonic Cleaner and Castrol Super Clean. Temp is adjustable on mine so I adjust to just barely warm then dunk the body or parts into the Purple Pond, switch on the ultrasonic and allow it to work. My experience is with a fresh batch of Super Clean that you will have a stripped body in about half the time for really nasty paints. For enamels, lacquers and acrylic lacquers that have been sprayed in a reasonable coating thickness, primer + topcoat, I’ve had the paint dissolved off the body in as little as two hours. Average time I’d say would
  3. I have a center finder from Starrett that does the job too. If you don't have a Center Finder the other way to do this is use a set of dial or digital calipers, first measure the O.D. of the Rod. Second, divide that measurement in half if it was 0.500" (1/2") then the center is at 0.250" (1/4"), set your calipers at 0.250" and lightly tighten the set screw. With the little ledge between the moving jaw of the caliper and the fixed jaw at the top of the caliper, set the rod on the top of the moveable jaw. Next, mark straight across the rod, turn the rod 90 degrees and mark again. The inters
  4. Great job Daniel, when I saw your original post, I immediately thought that you have the "male" part of the punch figured out. Now you need a "female" half of the die to form the cut louver. You must have looked up and saw what a full sized louver press and its dies looked like because you nailed it. This could be accomplished with a small arbor press, (the rack and pinion kind not the hydraulic press kind). Even an old drill press could do the job, I say old because the pressure of punching through even the thinnest aluminum or tin is going to be enough to stress the bearings or likely b
  5. I'd second the Vallejo paints, Hobby Lobby also carries the single bottles of flesh tones needed so you can pick up light and dark flesh tones to mix the desired tone. For the Vallejo Model Color paints you should need very little if any thinner. If you do I would use the flat "varnish" medium or even a drop of their thinner. For spraying acrylics. I know that lots of people advocate the use of windshield washer fluids; I've had much better luck using the same brand of paint's reducer / thinner intended for their brand of paint. Figure it this way, most paint companies spend a ton of mon
  6. Why not use a clear acetate overlay the same size as the decal, I've done that plenty of times with printed gauges. I've had the ink run or lose the crispness of the detail trying to overcoat the gauge decal/printed image on both paper and especially photo paper. It may be worth an experiment trying to use the old 5 minute epoxy trick for replicating gauge glass. I say experiment before using it because the last time I tried the 5 Minute epoxy developed air bubbles even with ultra slow mixing; so I ended up using the clear acetate overlay. If you cut it just right there is almost a pressur
  7. OK, Polishing was probably a poor choice of words here as it brings up the idea of "Final Polishing" a paint job; the term Color Sanding would probably have been more appropriate. Where the goal is to be knocking down the high spots and lowering to the bottom of the low spots for a smooth, flat, level surface. The 1000 or 1500 grit sand papers are the final color sanding grits used before shooting the acrylic. My goal is smooth but with enough bite for the acrylic color coat to bite into and still lay smooth so no sanding scratches, orange peel, shrinkage can be seen. Primer does shri
  8. I've used the Auto Air and Wicked Color lines for quite a few projects and models and have had really good success with them. Things to remember about Acrylic paints: 1. Acrylic paints have a shelf life, don't buy more paint than you will use in 3 - 6 months time. I've purchased some really old Auto Air and Wicked Colors opened them and found old coagulated paint inside. I suppose you could strain it, but I always return it to where I purchased it. (Hobby Lobby exchanges it no questions, as does everywhere else I've bought Createx products. I've got more old paint from Hobby Lobby th
  9. Sanding Sticks - Gum rubber abrasive cleaning pad, gum rubber artists eraser. Deep cleaning hot water a drop of dish soap and a toothbrush, most sanding sticks are “Wet / Dry” type abrasives. After three or four deep cleaning sessions the sanding stick has about had it when the abrasive particles have rounded off and it takes more effort to do the job. Steel Files - Brass Brush, file card. Stainless steel brushes are nowhere near as hard as tool steel but repeated cleaning with a steel brush will round the sharp cutting edges of the file over time. A steel file shouldn’t rust unless
  10. Tom, like everyone else has said the filters will not last as long. I have a Paasche booth, pretty similar to the Pace booths, I spray a mix of airbrush and canned paints depending on the part or desired finish. Not entirely sure about the Pace booths filter system but the Paasche booth has a three stage filter, one coarse pad, followed by two finer filter pads the coarse pad always loads up first with fine dusty paint pigment particles which are completely dry and easily shake loose. So I take the filter outside and lightly beat it like a rug until it isn’t giving off a dust cloud, t
  11. Greg, before I got my pedal speed control for my Dremel (variable speed) I used a lighting rheostat for a long time. Wore out two Dremel motors with it, (from use not the dimmer switch). I used a regular old dial light dimmer switch which I used a male and female plug at either end with a light switch box, dimmer and wall switch cover in the middle. Made from a heavier gauge extension cord, about five feet, dimmer and three feet to the female plug. This type of setup will run lower RPM’s without heating up, at least my set up would, you have to start at a higher speed and dial it down t
  12. A 0.100” rod/tube would be a 1/10” fractional size. Remember back to like 5th or 6th grade to obtain a decimal equivalent from a fraction divide the top number by the bottom. i.e. 1/10” = 1 divided by 10 = 0.100”. Now to go the other way and get a full scale measurement multiply the decimal number by the scale. 0.100 X 24 = 2.400 inches the actual mathematic expression looks like 0.100/1 X 1/24 = 2.400” the numerator’s and denominator’s (1’s) cancel out each another and you are left with the first equation or 0.100 X 24 = 2.400”. Try it with a few other common fractional tube
  13. Excellent write up Steve. The only thought I had was, you are following or scribing straight lines so why not locate the groove with blade or scribes then use a straight edge such as a thicker steel rule for more control. Working around tool and die makers for years I’ve watched them do this very thing with carbide scribers. They were putting the finishing touches on high dollar, aluminum and other alloy part applied layup mandrels scribing in ultra fine parting lines for final trim. Even though many of these tool makers had the practiced ability to follow their scribe lines alone, I’d
  14. Bingo! Don Emmons in Rod & Custom, Model Car & Science and Car Model Magazines all recommended using TP for replicating the undersides of Fiberglass Hoods and Funny Car bodies. I've used both rough textured tissue paper and single plies of toilet paper to get it to work. While the first coat of paint is still wet, gently burnish in the tissue / toilet paper (you can either spray or lightly coat with brush enamel works best due to it's longer flash off times). You may need to brush what soaks through the paper so it isn't excessively thick. Let that dry. Next apply the topcoa
  15. Cool idea! Love to see an innovative Mini based build, surprised you aren't using a Vauxhall or even a BMW MINI engine for your conversion to keep it all European. Question, why not turn the engine around so that it sits more in the middle of the car for a nearly equal weight distribution? Having the engine sit so far back in the car would make for a tail heavy handling car, not unlike an early VW, where the weight of the engine would cause the tail to kick out or the whole car to spin in a tight corner. Midmounting the engine would make a Mini handle more like the Street Legal Go Kart
  16. I've always used CA, superglue and baking soda to fill the pre-cut lines for hood scoops tire radius cutouts like on the inner rear quarters of the '49 and '50 Fords come to mind right off. First sprinkle a light coat of the baking soda into the groove then drop the superglue in over the baking soda which works as an accelerant so the area can be worked almost immediately. Alternately talc can be used in place of the baking soda. This filler is slightly harder than the styrene being filled and yields a stable fill which can be over coated with any standard two part automotive glaze filler.
  17. Unless you're running a semi truck engin, transmission and rear end, those rear tires and wheels would be considered a bit excessive! Unless they wanted th change clutches frequent that is!!
  18. Never heard of this happening. Figure it this way, the market share or percentage of discretionary income spent on model cars is a mere spec in the total scheme of things, income as a whole not individual. Therefore it makes little if any sense that someone would counterfeit model car kits or anything original in the sealed kit. What you have probably noted is a printing error, those happen frequently with high batch printing jobs. It might be worth a little bit more than a non-error what ever that is worth to a collector. now if you're talking resin parts, that's quite common for so
  19. Nope, I have enough to last including two of each '29 Roadster original release, '30 Coupe first and only release still in unopened boxes already built a couple of each so far. Not hoarding them, just waiting for the right inspiration to come along before another one is released from its cardboard prison! Not going to play into the hands of "Chicken Littles" and speculators, every sector of the automotive hobby that I've been involved in has been fraught with one crisis or another. Some Chicken Little running around telling everyone to buy it now or never get it! Funny thing, if you're
  20. There is actually another air compressor option http://www.californiaairtools.com/ these are a brand of quiet air compressors, I have a 5 gallon compressor that I use in the house in my hobby room, no complaints from my wife over the noise like my old compressor. Airbrushes, one of the beginner air brushes that I have reccomended is actually the Harbor Freight DeLuxe airbrush. Sure it's cheap, it's a cheap knockoff of the bigger bucks models, it has the adjustments needed to make corrections. Once you get used to working with the Harbor Freight Airbrush and have decided whether you wi
  21. Something to remember with the "low cost" acrylics, rule of thumb is the lower the price the less pigment in the paint. Less pigment = less coverage. Something you can tell right off when you try to brush the acrylic paint over a primed surface. The better brands of model specific acrylics often will cover with one coat, something I've never done with the cheaper Wally World brands. I still use them but realize that they will need multiple coats to cover; something I really notice when using an airbrush with thinned paint. I've used both windshield washer fluid and acrylic specific reduce
  22. You are doing really well with this one. Two observations from having a Mk III Mini in the garage,. 1. The engine block is the same as the Austin Healey Sprite and MG Midget and should be painted green, the ribbed transaxle and oil pan are a cast aluminum unit and should be left raw aluminum. (Couldn't tell you whether overspray from painting the engine is normal or not, I've never seen that so I think they must have painted the engine and head seperate from the transaxle assembly.) 2. Axles should be black in between flat and glossy, mix flat and gloss together 50/50 and you should have
  23. Thanks for starting this thread. Last weekend there was a listing out of China for the More American Graffiti "Milner's Dragster" for the paltry sum of $24.99 on a buy it now. I tried to buy it now, thankfully it didn't go through. So I tried to contact the scam artist asking what the trouble was and why the sale wouldn't go through blah, blah.. after that I saw this thread, knew what the deal was. So I tried contacting again, telling them that if they didn't make contact within the next 24 hours that I was through dealing with them. Even before the time was up I turned the "Auction" in t
  24. That's too bad, really, there is some cool stuff, I was primarily looking for the backdate stuff for the '32 Ford frames. Well I see why he doesn't answer his email now!! Least they coulda told somebody!!
  25. Does anyone know if Early Years Resin is still up and running? I enquired about ordering some stuff on the email address furnished on their website about two plus weeks ago, haven't heard a word. Anyone have a better way to contact Ron Royston at Early Years?? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
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