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Ira, I like the direction that you are taking "Mr Gasser" you have a real talent imagination when it comes to these kind of models. For some reason Revell never quite interpolated Ed Roth's artwork into the models. They are all a bit on the crude side in some respects but in others they are marvels of die work. They are well engineered in respect to the actual figures though the cars lack a lot. Of the later production runs of the Roth monster kits that I've built there seems to be some if the same kits that are heavy on the flash and others that are really tight with minimal flash. I have had the pleasure of building a few of the original Roth kits (out of some pretty crusty boxes), even then there was some slight flash present. The only worse monster kits of the time period were the Hawk Weird-Oh's, they only slightly resemble Bill Campbell's artwork redefining crude, still a fun build though. So what are you going to do with "Mr Gasser's" bottom end after the complete amputation of his butt and legs? Looking at one of my unbuilt "Mr Gasser" '57 Chevy bodies it looks like you might be able to turn Gasser's bottom end so that he is sitting instead of standing (as in stock form). The feet on the monsters were one of the better parts.

Got a bunch of cheapies crimped onto bamboo skewers. Work great for holding parts while painting.

Ira, you took Freddy's bat and hit another one out of the park with this one. You're reigniting the Wierd-Oh's, Deal's Wheels, Big Daddy Roth monsters flames all over. You've always been a trend setter! Retro this time! I'm enjoying the heck out of your latest builds.

First time I've seen this one out of the box, might see about picking one up. First thing that popped into my warped mind. With all those raised and recessed panel lines this one would look great as a woodgrained (with paint) woody and some trendy milk graphics. With all that area to cover it screams for something more than the sorta dated box graphics.

Too Cool Ira, staying tuned to see how the Hog himself turns out!

Thanks for the Prescription Doc, Been using the Tamiya, Apoxie and Magic Sculpt putty for a while. Also use Super Glue both thick and thin with baking soda. Cant remember where I got this tip for the baking soda. A couple of drops of food coloring mixed into the baking soda then allowed to dry before using it with the super glue helps match the plastic color and or to give a good contrast to the plastic you are trying to blend. Mix up enough to fill a 35 mm film can (if you can find one now days) and you'll have more then enough to last a long time. Super glue works well for blending joints and building up mismatch, like on some of the old Ed Roth and Weird-Oh's figures.

Someone asked the other day about a conversion factor inches to metric. I work in engineering using that math you wondered if you'd ever use in school. We engineers are smart enough most of the time not to reinvent the wheel. When we see the easy way out we usually take it! We use this exe program all the time it's called Convert.exe, it will convert more things than anyone in their right mind will ever need to convert. Did a quick search and came up with this source, it is the same exact Convert.exe program that i've got on my computer at work. Try it out it just might get you the information you need. It's free too! Convert.exe http://joshmadison.c...rt-for-windows/

Like what you've done with Davey. The eyes have it! The bike is so much better than the little scoot that comes with the kit. If that's not enough weight to counterbalance the "top end" you might try either lead or steel shot. I've used it before in my Ed Roth and Weird-Oh's it keeps the figure planted on it's feet like they are supposed to be. In stock form Davey takes a bit of weight to keep him in the saddle. You can get shot at any sporting goods store that has shotgun reloading supplies. Drill a 1/4" hole. Squirt some white glue down the hole. Use either a small funnel or paper cone to pour the shot through the hole. Keep going until you have enough shot to keep the figure planted where you want it. Layer more white glue on top of the shot. Let dry. Once dry, you've got a weighted figure that the balast is going to stay put no matter what position the figure is in.

As my avitar might suggest I'm still into many things Roth. I like all of the old Revell Roth Kits and have built almost every one as a kid when they were new and as an adult. I just finished building a Mother's Worry kit from an original '60's kit for my nephew, his only stipulation was that it be built like it would have when it was a new kit. It took a great deal of restraint to not over-do it, for the "privilege" of building this kit I found and built a 1999 vintage Mother's Worry that is detailed a bit, polished paint, Mother's Worry figure airbrushed and all seams filled. Both kits are mounted on slate tile like they are racing one another. My nephew was overjoyed when I gave it to him for his birthday. He's a 30+ year old who knew nothing of Ed Roth, Thom Daniels or Dave Deal, his appreciation comes from seeing the models built by my self or his Dad's glue bombs saved from when we were kids. As a model building exercise these "fun" kits provide a source of entertainment that I don't always get when building a serious replica (kit). I love finding an old glue bomb of one of the not so serious kits. If I screw something up getting it apart it can always be blended until it appears like it was ment to be that way. Some of us are old enough that we remember Ira's work in Car Modeler and Model Car Science which for it's time was both serious and cutting edge. Yet I really get a huge charge out of seeing the current stuff that he's building today. You don't have to look hard to see he's having a blast building them either. Check out his "Ramchero" and other builds, it's all tongue in cheek fun. While checking out those builds look deeper to the background at all those cool kits, (he's got more kits in reserve than some hobby shops carry). He's got a ton of kits to choose from, yet he's building the "not so serious" kits applying all that experience and skill to them and having a whole lot of fun all the while! Bottom line, those of us who appreciate these kind of kits like them for their fun and maybe just a bit of nostalgia. I build these kits but I'd never go near some of the 60's or 70's bizare show car stuff, absolutely abhor rat rods real or models, yet I see and appreciate the skill it takes to pull them both off. Sometimes you just need a break from serious.

While checking out some 1:1 car parts in the Jegs catalog I got to thinking. Many catalog sales outfits send out catalogs for the asking. What better reference material for modeling high performance parts on down to shock absorbers. Usually the pictures are of high quality so you can use them for color reference, decal placement etc.. There are tons of catalogs out there for the asking from Drag Race, Circle Track, Hot Rod, you name it and there is a catalog for it. The difference between using web reference pictures and color printed is that the print are going to be for the most part true to the color(s) used on the part, they're usually done in a studio with near perfect lighting. The manufacturer approves of the shots so you are pretty much assured that the picture looks extremely close to the real thing.

Excellent idea, I'm going to harvest the fan out of a recently departed laptop after I leave here. Two filtration ideas one outgoing air and one incoming air. (1.) One of the videos mentioned an activated charcoal filter to absorb paint fumes. What about the activated charcoal water filters for the Mr. Coffee coffee maker? They come in a package of two for a couple of bucks, not certain how they would flow air, water molecules are larger than air so it should work. (2.) For the air filter what about some sort of automotive air filter, could be something as simple as the paper filter element sandwhiched between two pie tins with the fan inside and mounted to the top of the box. (Not the aluminum kind, way too thin.) The top and bottom of the air filter could either be "glued" to the element with a bead of silicone or 3 or 4 short sheetmetal screws directly into the rubber top and bottom of the filter element.

After using the spray Zap Kicker with CA Glue for ages and always worrying about contamination to soon to be painted surfaces I hit on this idea. Found these empty needle tip bottles on Ebay, the guy that sells them also sells them filled with oil for trains, slot cars and stuff. I pour a small amount of the kicker into the needle tip bottle then once the CA Glue is applied just hit it with a tiny drop of the kicker. It's far better and less of a mess than the spray bottle. I've been using this for some time now and it works great. Question: (I searched but can't find the post I think I saw on here some time ago.) Does anyone use Super Glue and Baking Soda for body filler? I've used Thick Super Glue on larger areas sanded it smooth then top coated with thin super glue with good results in the past. Any one have any problems with this as a filler in the past?

Hope I'm not dredging up one that's too old. If so flip me some cr@p and be done with it!! Daily (Commuter) Driver and occasional Auto-X'er 2001 New Beetle Turbo nothing fancy gets me to work and back. My other car is a 1973 RHD Mini, imported from UK in 1998 got it on the road in 2000 modified from front to back. Added Sportspack Flares (Arches) , 13 inch Mini-Lites, Engine out of a late John Cooper Works Mini, lumpier cam, head has been ported, polished and flowed, roller rockers, dual SU carbs, dyno's out at 81 HP on rollers, Adjustable suspension on stock type rubber cones, interior has been worked over starting with addition of Webasto electric sunroof, Cobra Classic Clubman seats. Color is Black on Flame Red, (stock color combination). The only drag with it being "not stock" is when we Auto-X it gets bumped up to run with the New MINI's, New Beetles, Honda's, it holds it's own there though. We got the Mini after a string of US made Iron, a few air cooled Bugs (Oval Window and Convertibles), Camaro's, '65 GTO which were fun cars. Then decided to do something really different and get a Mini which has been an absolute blast. One of the first things that I did right after importing it was swap it over to LHD then two years ago I swapped it back to RHD which adds a whole lot to the whole "Mini experience"! We got looks with our Muscle Cars but we weren't prepared for the attention that this gets at the car shows. We had a guy at one of the local cruise nights actually move his then brand new Camaro away from us because it was attracting far more attention than his! Like Hot Rod touted in the '80's "Dare to be Different", this is really different. Thanks for Looking.