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I had not heard or read that Chris Economaki had passed away, that's too bad. I remember Chris clear back to his ABC's Wide World pf sports days. Drew's correct he reported on anything with wheels that went fast or slow. I can still vividly remember him covering a whole lot of early NHRA (Garlits shaving his beard for one), Indy 500, Fire Truck & Ladder competition, Soapbox Derby Championships, Slot Cars, Off Road Racing (Baja 500 & 1000) Motocross (with real mud and dirt put there by nature), World D-Derby Championships in Islip, New York. It was something new every Saturday, when motorsports were treated as a filler between sports seasons. I remember him as an excellent color comentator who was truely interested in motorsports and was interesting because of it. You would probably be pretty hard pressed to remember just what he did cover back in the early '60's, including NASCAR.

Can't remember right off hand what magazine that minty green roadster was in, (may have been Hot Rod?) it's been a while ago. If memory serves me correctly it is the front half of an early 20's Dodge touring car body set on a stock frame that had been flipped upside down the parallel leaf springs are in the stock configuration with front and rear axels bolted on top of the spring Vs. below the spring stock. With such a low center of gravity the roadster was said to handle quite well.

Interesting concept, I like most of the front including the fadeaway fenders. Now the back is just plain odd it doesn't seem to fit with the front. Not to mention being impractical almost to the point of being undriveable. Looks like the builder was going for swoopy but ended up with droopy! When I first looked at the trailer thing it looked like some sort of art deco horse trailer. Then again what do I know?

From your description of the original model it sounds like it may have been the early to mid 70's version of the Tweedy Pie which was called the "Rod Father" It used many of the same running gear as the Tweedy Pie. It had huge for the time rear slicks like 1" to 1-1/2" wide, the hollow ones that Revell was trying to pass of as tires, if I remember right the front ones were also the two piece tires with what looked like an American mag wheel on front and rear. The cutout on the right side of the body was for a huge (for scale) angle bracket that held the steering box in place. Tube rear bumper and front nerf bars were on the Tweedy Pie and Rod Father. As mentioned above the other thing that identifies this as either the Tweedy Pie or Rod Father is the opening door. What color is the plastic body? Blue would indicate the Rod Father not sure about Tweedy Pie's plastic color could be purple (Revell liked to use plastic colors near the same as the paint), the recent release looks like it's done in white. Either way sounds like you've got a "vintage" model, treat it nice!

I think that's what I like about them is the Fun Factor. I like to apply the Disney "Plausible Impossible" theory, if it looks like it could happen then it's plausible. In other words if the model looks like it might have been built in real life and is cool it must be true!! Have fun Ira the smile factor is high on this one too!

Sorry, didn't mention the source of the medicine cups. Check Coast Airbrush or any of the shops that supply airbrushes. I have seen them in the local hobby shop as well their suggested use was for mixing resin. Just took a look on ebay they are about $2.50 for 100. Search "Medicine Cups". I found the stainless steel prep cups at Wally World in their kitchen department they were in a pack of two if I remember right. I use them for pinstriping and signwork so they would also be good for holding small amounts of paint either decanted or while brush painting. If you need a cover for either try plastic wrap you can cut a small hole through it to minimize the overspray. You can also use it on your painted surface for some pretty cool effects, so I'm reasonably sure that it will not cause any fisheye or reaction issues. Not a long term storage solution. Just came across something on ebay that I've seen in the local grocery store, plastic disposable shot glasses bit expensive for one time use but they will work. Edited to add additional information.

Looks great!

Not 100% sure they look like they might be nicely packaged Chinese knock offs. With Airbrushes you get what you pay for, part of what you pay for is the customer service and factory support if something goes wrong after the warrenty runs out. If this is your first airbrush the cheaper no name airbrush might be a good way to find out if you like airbrushing or find that it's more hassle than you want to deal with and go back to rattle cans. Some people do. I woul ask Airbrush City who manufactures their house brand airbrushes, can't hurt to ask. Ask what the availability of replacement parts is like needles, seals, tips... So if there is an issue after the warranty is up will you be able to fix it yourself?

Let's see, get off 12 hour a night graveyard shift; been on nights for the past five months started out as 10 hours then the contractor got "slightly" behind and went to 12's. Eat, sleet work, the weekends are for my wife and family. Should be off and back to "normal" 8 hour days by the end of the month. So not model burnout, just plain old burnout, I do my net surfing from the roadside on my iPhone. That would be why I comment on a whole lot of stuff and maybe come off a tad bit "grouchy" normally I'm pretty mild mannered; oh did I mention that I've got half a dozen striping jobs that fortunately customers are really understanding... One of these day soon I'll be massaging the styrene again!! The ideas are floating, no time to execute!

Not sure about your booth, my Paasche booth has poly fiber filter in the back of the plenum which catches most if not all of the solids on the way out. I vent out a window through dryer hose and removable sheet of masonite. I also have light colored siding on the side of the house, never noticed any "color" residue on the side of the house or window screen. Try getting some aquarium filter material sheet and vent through that, pretty much what's in my booth it doesn't seem to impede airflow at all cheap and easy to clean up. I also use the booth to vent out bondo odors when using or sanding fillers, works well. My wife can't stand the smell of bondo since I've been venting the smell out that way she never complains.

I'm going to go out on a limb here. I already know that there will be plenty who disagree with what I'm going to say but everyone's got oppinions on what works and what's good wnd what's not. Auto Art Magazine (it's a trade magazine for Automotive Artists) did a test shot on the Harbor Freight Deluxe Air Brush a year or two ago and liked it. It's not an every day pro's workhorse airbrush but for small highlights touchups etc - which would include small jobs like painting a model. The Deluxe Airbrush is a great little airbrush for the price $19.99; I think I paid $14 or $15 for both of mine, I've squirted a bunch of piant through them and they're still alive and kicking. If you get one be aware that before you use it you will have to do a few tune up things like polish the needle, first make sure that the needle is straight and the tips are round and seat the needle. If not take it back for your money or a new one it will spit all over the place if the needle isn't straignt and doesn't seat. Now you have an inexpensive airbrush that you can learn the basic techniques without investing in an Iwata, Paasche or Badger airbrush. The point is you are going to be more apt to try new techniques with a $20 airbrush than you will with a $200 airbrush. You will learn to keep it clean on a much cheaper brush one that you won't feel you have to treat it like you are disassembeling and reassembeling some sort of explosive device!! You will figure out whether you want to spend the extra hard earned dollars for that top name airbrush as well . Don't forget that a whole lot of us started out in the mysterious world of the airbrush with the single action Badger airbrush and canned air. If you already have a compressor or access to one don't be in a rush to run out and get one beg or borrow the use of one, if you like it buy one you can afford whether it's from Harbor Freight or somewhere else. Jump in and get your feet wet find out if it's for you, don't forget to have fun while you're doing it. Just my two cents! http://www.harborfre...-kit-95810.html

You've obviously never tried to get chrome oil pans or valve covers to seal. I have and it just isn't that easy, I've seen people sandblast the chrome off the mating surfaces to make them seal. Stuff dosen't stay pristine forever. That said, my current "toy" has a miniscule oil leak (it's Brittish, enough said) we've worked pretty hard to get it down to that, it is clean without evidence of oil leakage though, and it's got rock chips from being driven! It's a car drive it ang have fun with it. It's not a museum peice.

Scotch 233 masking tape is 1/8" X 60 Yd roll UPC 02120006343 or Art-Alternatives masking tape 1/8" X 60 Yd roll AA20170 www.art-alternatives.com/ I have both in my paint kit both work great. The other hint is to use either a single edged razor blade or small scissors to make relief cuts partially through the back side of the tape in the curve start out at about 1/8" apart and closer if the radius is really tight. I've made some really tight curves with 3/4" tape using this method. The back side may try to creep up but as long as the edge sticks tight it will work. Most of the time the backside gets more tape on it anyway so it's not an issue. Since you probably won't be using really long lengths you could use a sheet of glass, straight edge and razor blade or brand new exacto to trim down the tape to the width you need. Lay tape strips on the glass, cut the strips you will be using out of the middle part of the tape. you will never get the tapes edges down on the glass perfectly straight. So use the straight edge from the center part to make certain it's straight. Be aware that the thinner the masking tape the higher the price, you pay more for less material! If you can't find 1/8' masking tape locally try Daniel Smith - danielsmith.com , Cheap Joe's Art Supply - cheapjoes.com , Dixie Airbrush - dixieart.com , BearAir Airbrush - bearair.com , TCP Global - tcpglobal.com

I think I see how you are setting it up, how about posting a picture of the completed Flakebuster as you are now using it. Please!

Even though the '37 headlights are Art Deco inspired they don't seem to flow very well with this body's lines. How about scribing in some sort of retractable headlights? Could be as simple as just scribing the panel to simulate a retractable light or even a clear headlamp molded into the fender line. Just my two cents!

If you are referring to reducing the 1Shot with Lacquer thinner, yes you can do that with 1Shot, lacquer thinner is used sometimes in cooler environments as it makes the paintdry faster. The other thing be sure to check out their other products like hardener. Even though you may hear a Striper or Sign Guy refer to thinner/reducer as "turps" never use turpentine to reduce 1Shot, worked with the old formula but doesn't with the new. (I've heard horror stories of using turpentine and the artwork didn't dry after long periods of time, you don't want that.) I am currently using the 1Shot reducer to thin, turpentine and paint thinner are for cleaning your brushes! The 1Shot hardener is a great product if you are going to clear coat, helps prevent paint reaction. Ask away if there is anything else you want to know, the other place to go is 1Shot's website lots of great info there.

Had a waterbed too, not that long though. I always thought the patch kit glue smelled like PVC pipe glue, has the same cold feel to it too.

Dr. I've got somewhere over 30 years experience working with 1Shot both in the sign field and striping, shot more than my fair share through an airbrush as well. ( I started out in Commercial Art and ended up in engineering, go figure! I've had my hand in or around the pot most of that time.) If you head over to the Kustom Kulture Lounge there should be a long running thread about "what I do with 1Shot" or something like that. The artist is from the east coast and sprays a lot of 1Shot on commercial vehicles, his work is top notch so it will show you what can be done with 1Shot. 1Shot is pretty much the same enamel formulation as the enamel model paint you are used to brushing on your models, it reduces the same as model enamel, is soft like model enamels. Most of us typically spray 1Shot through an airbrush either to highlight or provide a substrate for letter work. They changed the formula for 1Shot a few years ago, they took the lead the old stuff covered better, you shouldn't notice any issue with that. Just use the stuff like you would Pactra or Testers Brush Enamel and you'll be fine. No need for a bunch of spoons the stuff is pretty true to the color swatches. Other brands to consider would be Ronan Sign Paint or the "Little Daddy Roth" Striping (enamel) Paint. Haven't personally used the Little Daddy Roth stuff but word of mouth says it's on par with the Ronan Paint. BTW most of us prefer Sign Painters, Sign Writers, Letterheads, Pin Stripers, Stripers, Pinheads, Commercial Artists or Artists to "bristle draggers" that would be a little more ratrod than most of us prefer to associate with. To us a bristle dragger is some kid who bought a Mack 00 brush and a can of 1Shot and thinks he is good enough to lay a "line" on someone else's pride and joy. Most of us went through either long apprenticeships under a sign writer or pinstriper or long periods of personal practice, it's a craft that has been traditionally handed down from one artist to another (who had to prove they were worthy of the "Master's" attention in the first place). We have earned the right to do the artwork we apply over another craftsman's equally perfect paint as well as where on what we apply our art to. Calling a person who is of professional caliber Pinstriper or Sign Painter a "bristle dragger" is like coming on here and saying that modelers "play with toys". (End rant!)

Be careful with what type of paint you put into condiment cups. We used to use them for sign work and pinstriping but found that some types tend to melt even with enamel type paints lacquer will melt them to a puddle of goo. They work great for acrylic paints though. What we use now is the single dose medicine cups they run five or six bucks for a hundred they will hold lacquer paint all day without a problem. The other type of cup that I like using are the stainless steel condiment/prep cups they run a couple of bucks for a pack of 2 or 3 they last forever clean up really easy and will handle anything you put in them.

The two ideas of using the fineline tape and scoring a slight channell on the topside of the trim are great. What I prefer using for BMF (as well as some gold leaf applications) is a brand new single edge razor blade. After you've used them for a while you can cut pretty accurately with very little pressure. You can get a box of 100 for around $5. (If you are a little aprehensive about using a hand held razor blade you can get box knife handles which hold the blade for you.)

Who's sucessfully opened the doors on the '33 Willys Gasser? Since AMT molded the Ohio George '33 Willys kit and all it's following spinoffs without any sort of rocker panel which if you look at the real thing it doesn't have any either. How did you do it to make it look/work right? I have both doors cut and of course the body springs as soon as the last cut is made. My first thought is to place a strip of plastic sheet down the lower door area which would both reinforce the body and give me somewhere to hide the rare earth magnets on either side of the door panel. For hinges I'd like to find some sort of metal piano type hinge that can be cut and bent to make the exposed exterior hinges rather than wire hinges. I know Autoworld used to carry this type of hinge eons ago, does anyone make them or something like miniture hinges now? Part II To this Q & A session would be who has used the resin version of the '33 Willys with stock roof height and stock front end, did you open the doors on the resin version? Any resin specific issues encountered? Using the AMT version to practice opening it's doors; if it works out good enough I might end up building an OHio George '33.

Theory I - Looks like it may have been a friction motor toy car in the first place, then someone tried to make it what it is now. Seem to remember most of that type of toy as having better proportions and construction, not out of the possibility though. Theory II - This is one of Ira's undescovered early "Dodge Period" childhood works. If this is true immediately get it on fleaBay with a the first word in the title being "RARE" a truely exquisite item like this could finance your modeling adiction for years to come! Theory III - An early resin cast Dodge Charger with "slight" shrinkage and warpage issues. I was thinking the same, possibly with an equally Zinger(ish) wing and nose. Wouldn't do anything to alter the proportions that are already there, they are what gives the car it's charactor in the first place, pretty much "rub" what's already there. Another take on the Zinger theme might be a Nascar Charger Daytona, pick the Dodge race team either from the period or a current driver/team. One thing is for certain, blend in the joints where the roof meets the body especially the windshield area.

Ira, another one Out'a The Park!! Like this one a lot. Show us how you do the drool. Thanks

Nice job on a very finicky kit. Having built this kit as a kid around '66 when the tooling was still somewhat new I remember it being a little bit difficult. Built one of the 70's issues, found it to be somewhat less difficult. The fit up issues especially with some of the smaller/thinner chromed parts are what makes this kit a challenge for some.

Wow! That thing sits right, looking better every time you share.