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Dr. I've got somewhere over 30 years experience working with 1Shot both in the sign field and striping, shot more than my fair share through an airbrush as well. ( I started out in Commercial Art and ended up in engineering, go figure! I've had my hand in or around the pot most of that time.) If you head over to the Kustom Kulture Lounge there should be a long running thread about "what I do with 1Shot" or something like that. The artist is from the east coast and sprays a lot of 1Shot on commercial vehicles, his work is top notch so it will show you what can be done with 1Shot. 1Shot is pretty much the same enamel formulation as the enamel model paint you are used to brushing on your models, it reduces the same as model enamel, is soft like model enamels. Most of us typically spray 1Shot through an airbrush either to highlight or provide a substrate for letter work. They changed the formula for 1Shot a few years ago, they took the lead the old stuff covered better, you shouldn't notice any issue with that. Just use the stuff like you would Pactra or Testers Brush Enamel and you'll be fine. No need for a bunch of spoons the stuff is pretty true to the color swatches. Other brands to consider would be Ronan Sign Paint or the "Little Daddy Roth" Striping (enamel) Paint. Haven't personally used the Little Daddy Roth stuff but word of mouth says it's on par with the Ronan Paint. BTW most of us prefer Sign Painters, Sign Writers, Letterheads, Pin Stripers, Stripers, Pinheads, Commercial Artists or Artists to "bristle draggers" that would be a little more ratrod than most of us prefer to associate with. To us a bristle dragger is some kid who bought a Mack 00 brush and a can of 1Shot and thinks he is good enough to lay a "line" on someone else's pride and joy. Most of us went through either long apprenticeships under a sign writer or pinstriper or long periods of personal practice, it's a craft that has been traditionally handed down from one artist to another (who had to prove they were worthy of the "Master's" attention in the first place). We have earned the right to do the artwork we apply over another craftsman's equally perfect paint as well as where on what we apply our art to. Calling a person who is of professional caliber Pinstriper or Sign Painter a "bristle dragger" is like coming on here and saying that modelers "play with toys". (End rant!)

Be careful with what type of paint you put into condiment cups. We used to use them for sign work and pinstriping but found that some types tend to melt even with enamel type paints lacquer will melt them to a puddle of goo. They work great for acrylic paints though. What we use now is the single dose medicine cups they run five or six bucks for a hundred they will hold lacquer paint all day without a problem. The other type of cup that I like using are the stainless steel condiment/prep cups they run a couple of bucks for a pack of 2 or 3 they last forever clean up really easy and will handle anything you put in them.

The two ideas of using the fineline tape and scoring a slight channell on the topside of the trim are great. What I prefer using for BMF (as well as some gold leaf applications) is a brand new single edge razor blade. After you've used them for a while you can cut pretty accurately with very little pressure. You can get a box of 100 for around $5. (If you are a little aprehensive about using a hand held razor blade you can get box knife handles which hold the blade for you.)

Who's sucessfully opened the doors on the '33 Willys Gasser? Since AMT molded the Ohio George '33 Willys kit and all it's following spinoffs without any sort of rocker panel which if you look at the real thing it doesn't have any either. How did you do it to make it look/work right? I have both doors cut and of course the body springs as soon as the last cut is made. My first thought is to place a strip of plastic sheet down the lower door area which would both reinforce the body and give me somewhere to hide the rare earth magnets on either side of the door panel. For hinges I'd like to find some sort of metal piano type hinge that can be cut and bent to make the exposed exterior hinges rather than wire hinges. I know Autoworld used to carry this type of hinge eons ago, does anyone make them or something like miniture hinges now? Part II To this Q & A session would be who has used the resin version of the '33 Willys with stock roof height and stock front end, did you open the doors on the resin version? Any resin specific issues encountered? Using the AMT version to practice opening it's doors; if it works out good enough I might end up building an OHio George '33.

Theory I - Looks like it may have been a friction motor toy car in the first place, then someone tried to make it what it is now. Seem to remember most of that type of toy as having better proportions and construction, not out of the possibility though. Theory II - This is one of Ira's undescovered early "Dodge Period" childhood works. If this is true immediately get it on fleaBay with a the first word in the title being "RARE" a truely exquisite item like this could finance your modeling adiction for years to come! Theory III - An early resin cast Dodge Charger with "slight" shrinkage and warpage issues. I was thinking the same, possibly with an equally Zinger(ish) wing and nose. Wouldn't do anything to alter the proportions that are already there, they are what gives the car it's charactor in the first place, pretty much "rub" what's already there. Another take on the Zinger theme might be a Nascar Charger Daytona, pick the Dodge race team either from the period or a current driver/team. One thing is for certain, blend in the joints where the roof meets the body especially the windshield area.

Ira, another one Out'a The Park!! Like this one a lot. Show us how you do the drool. Thanks

Nice job on a very finicky kit. Having built this kit as a kid around '66 when the tooling was still somewhat new I remember it being a little bit difficult. Built one of the 70's issues, found it to be somewhat less difficult. The fit up issues especially with some of the smaller/thinner chromed parts are what makes this kit a challenge for some.

Wow! That thing sits right, looking better every time you share.

My flub, I think I knew that once. Too many miles and cars ago!! Thanks for correcting my talking out of where I usually sit!!

Those wheels are perfect for it, will make a whole world of difference with the big-n-little stance. Not at all dated, some things are too classic to mess with. Those wheels are pretty much an updated polished Radir or American mag wheel. Which is what's on a whole lot of Hot Rods now days. I take it that you are (based on paint style and wheels) building current (billet) style versus period correct pre '64 style. If you'r e building current stick with those wheels. Some of the true billet wheels detract rather than enhance the lines of a whole lot of Hot Rods. A wheel should compliment the lines of the car not the car compliment the wheels.

Nice job Ira. This is a bit of a letdown, now what do we follow... Thanks for sharing your build with all of us.

Maybe they are confused with the trim options which could be factory ordered on top of the Z/28 Package. I had a '69 Le-Mans Blue / White Striped / Black Interior / Factory 8-Track/AM/FM, Console 4 Speed RS SS Z/28 it's Stock factory motor was a DZ Code 302 Single 4 Barrel Holley. Traded straight across for it. My '70 Big-Block, Automatic, Black/Black 'Vette Roadster, With Slotted US mags, the guy loved the mags so much that he didn't want the stock Corvette Ralley wheels with their Goodyear Polyglass GT's, which I got to keep until a couple of years ago. They sold for almost as much as originally I paid for the (used) 'Vette! Enough with the day dreaming and back to the question at hand. Z/28's '67 thru '69 came factory stock with a DZ Code 302, '70'ish switched to a 350. Trim options - since most of the time in the case of high performance cars the customer was ordering a car from the factory as most dealers didn't have the special optioned cars just sitting on the lot. Hence the existence of RS Z/28's, SS Z/28's and RS/SS Z/28's. Back then it wasn't uncommon for people to order car's at their local dealer and pick it up at the factory as part of their vacation. Not like it is today where the dealer has stock on hand, customer either buys it there or keep looking.

Wow Ira that's just too Kool! Got me so excited I almost wet my pants!! Well not quite that excited, but I do love it!

Contact the seller again, tell them that on xyz date that you contacted them about duplicate merchandise sent to the same address in error. Tell them that you do not intend to pay for the second kit, if the seller responds expecting this involve eBay quickly. Next give them a deadline to respond, tell them that if they do not respond by your deadline you will consider the merchandise a gift; you fulfilled your end of the auction. I would not eat the shipping to make this right with the seller it is clearly their error. If they do not respond in a timely manner then the merchandise at some point is pretty much considered abandoned, which is why you gave them the deadline. Keep all corrispondence including any emails, shipping documents included with the second package (and first if you're lucky). If the seller gives you any guff threaten to involve eBay then follow through with it. It probably is a mistake, but treat it as if it is not. The seller may be trying to generate additional money from you figuring you bought the first one maybe you'll pop for a second.

Looks like someone else has been following Ira's no holds barred, peg the imagination scale builds. We need a whole lot more of this kind of eyecandy! These kind of builds put the fun back into building models, no worry about having the correct this or that to the nth degree, build it so it looks cool!! I love it!! Thanks for sharing.

Just keeps getting better with every installment!! You're wearing my eyes out with your wild imaginative builds, this one is no different! Did I say I love it. That engine scores like a 120% on the coolness factor scale!!!!!

I am very impressed with your project! Having spent some time on workman's comp with an injury that kept me off the job for almost 6 years I understand part of what your group is going through. (Injured my ulnar nerve lost feeling and function in half my hand, long journey to get back, 3 surgeries, lots of physical therepy. No vacation at all!) Modeling provided me with a needed diversion during this ordeal. Mark, What types of kits and supplies could someone donate to your project? Do you have a Pay-Pal account that someone could transfer money to for you to replenish your donated supplies if someone wanted to donate $5 or $10 or more? If someone wanted to donate to your group what would you like or need? Might be neat for your group to work through the same kit(s) together.

W-409 summed it up pretty thourally in addition suggest you pick up a copy of "Gasser Wars" Drag Racing's Street Classes: 1955 - 1968 by Larry Davis put out by Car Tech books. One of the more comprehensive books on the subject covers the Gas Class from start to pretty much the finish. Lot's of great pictures too!

Looks like the Gasser is going Pro-Street. Getting ready to Tub the '57 out? No wonder you cut Mr Gasser's butt off, needed the room for the tubs! What's next the four link?

OK, I'm being a little obtuse here but, what brand and type of two-part catalyzed putty are you guys using? How much do you keep on hand, as in what's the smallest container you were able to buy?

Paint here too, get a measurement from a scale plate and reduce the Acme plate until it measures the same. Takes a couple of trys to get right but they don't take that much ink.

A liner brush is one that has a short dagger tip like a short pinstriping brush the hair at the tip will be around 1/2" tapering down to around 1/4" inch or so has a lot of "belly" in the brush that can be loaded with paint flowing down to the tip for line work. Not to be confused with an actual pinstriping brush where the brush itself is around 1/4"- 1" wide and around 2-1/2 to 3" long with tapered tip. As Harry said the best brushes to get are sable, Kolinsky sable is the best and is priced accordingly, I get a lot of my watercolor brushes from Cheap Joe's Art Stuff in Boone NC, cheapjoes.com they are cheaper than Dick Blick, dickblick.com and have a better selection. (that's just my oppinion.) I've got a few of my detail brushes at Cheap Joe's look for watercolor or acrylic brushes. Some of the synthetic/sable blends are pretty good as well the sable holds the paint and the synthetic gives it a snap (spring back)

Very Cool. Not sure I'd really worry about the grommets, until I read that you had used paint I was under the impression that they were grommets/eyelets. Pretty convincing already. That would never fly in my neighborhood, they got "Blue Tarp" restrictions!

Ira, You must have read my mind with the headlights, may as well use the front and back bumper while you are at it at least they're chrome. I'm in the process of collecting parts to build another detailed "Mr Gasser". I am going to use a modified Revell Willys Street Rod frame under it, haven't decided about using the Hemi yet. Thinking about molding and casting rear tires either from the Super Fuzz or Manglia kits, both of which look 100% better than the tiny stock kit tires. Would like to make this version look as closely to the Danbury Mint version of "Mr Gasser as well as the version done in the "Amazing Vehicular Modeler". Lead the way I'm following this one, just like all of your Kool Kustom Monster builds!

I got my first Lego's for Christmas in 1962 or 1963, when they first came out here in the U.S. they were all brick for the most part ( full, half and double if I remember). The windows came first then wheels, gears evolving to what we know today as Lego's. I still have a five gallon bucket full to the top of some pretty vintage Lego's that have passed through me, both my brothers, nephews and neices, my son and daughter and are being played with by a third generation. Let's see any other toy that can take that much of a workout and still survive, some of them don't fit as tight as they used to but they still lock together. I remember the first ones fit so tightly together that you almost had to literally pry them apart! My older brother and I had some of the American Bricks before I got Lego's, as Harry said they fit really loosely together. We used to make American Brick walls across our 1/24th scale Strombecker slot car track then start from the back of the wall racing to see who could get there first sending brick flying. Try that with a Lego block wall and you'd probably total out the slot car! My wife got me a Seattle Space Needle Lego kit the other day, she said it was like watching a kid playing with the Lego's. Have to admit it brought a smile to my face and made me feel like a kid too!