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Maybe they are confused with the trim options which could be factory ordered on top of the Z/28 Package. I had a '69 Le-Mans Blue / White Striped / Black Interior / Factory 8-Track/AM/FM, Console 4 Speed RS SS Z/28 it's Stock factory motor was a DZ Code 302 Single 4 Barrel Holley. Traded straight across for it. My '70 Big-Block, Automatic, Black/Black 'Vette Roadster, With Slotted US mags, the guy loved the mags so much that he didn't want the stock Corvette Ralley wheels with their Goodyear Polyglass GT's, which I got to keep until a couple of years ago. They sold for almost as much as originally I paid for the (used) 'Vette! Enough with the day dreaming and back to the question at hand. Z/28's '67 thru '69 came factory stock with a DZ Code 302, '70'ish switched to a 350. Trim options - since most of the time in the case of high performance cars the customer was ordering a car from the factory as most dealers didn't have the special optioned cars just sitting on the lot. Hence the existence of RS Z/28's, SS Z/28's and RS/SS Z/28's. Back then it wasn't uncommon for people to order car's at their local dealer and pick it up at the factory as part of their vacation. Not like it is today where the dealer has stock on hand, customer either buys it there or keep looking.

Wow Ira that's just too Kool! Got me so excited I almost wet my pants!! Well not quite that excited, but I do love it!

Contact the seller again, tell them that on xyz date that you contacted them about duplicate merchandise sent to the same address in error. Tell them that you do not intend to pay for the second kit, if the seller responds expecting this involve eBay quickly. Next give them a deadline to respond, tell them that if they do not respond by your deadline you will consider the merchandise a gift; you fulfilled your end of the auction. I would not eat the shipping to make this right with the seller it is clearly their error. If they do not respond in a timely manner then the merchandise at some point is pretty much considered abandoned, which is why you gave them the deadline. Keep all corrispondence including any emails, shipping documents included with the second package (and first if you're lucky). If the seller gives you any guff threaten to involve eBay then follow through with it. It probably is a mistake, but treat it as if it is not. The seller may be trying to generate additional money from you figuring you bought the first one maybe you'll pop for a second.

Looks like someone else has been following Ira's no holds barred, peg the imagination scale builds. We need a whole lot more of this kind of eyecandy! These kind of builds put the fun back into building models, no worry about having the correct this or that to the nth degree, build it so it looks cool!! I love it!! Thanks for sharing.

Just keeps getting better with every installment!! You're wearing my eyes out with your wild imaginative builds, this one is no different! Did I say I love it. That engine scores like a 120% on the coolness factor scale!!!!!

I am very impressed with your project! Having spent some time on workman's comp with an injury that kept me off the job for almost 6 years I understand part of what your group is going through. (Injured my ulnar nerve lost feeling and function in half my hand, long journey to get back, 3 surgeries, lots of physical therepy. No vacation at all!) Modeling provided me with a needed diversion during this ordeal. Mark, What types of kits and supplies could someone donate to your project? Do you have a Pay-Pal account that someone could transfer money to for you to replenish your donated supplies if someone wanted to donate $5 or $10 or more? If someone wanted to donate to your group what would you like or need? Might be neat for your group to work through the same kit(s) together.

W-409 summed it up pretty thourally in addition suggest you pick up a copy of "Gasser Wars" Drag Racing's Street Classes: 1955 - 1968 by Larry Davis put out by Car Tech books. One of the more comprehensive books on the subject covers the Gas Class from start to pretty much the finish. Lot's of great pictures too!

Looks like the Gasser is going Pro-Street. Getting ready to Tub the '57 out? No wonder you cut Mr Gasser's butt off, needed the room for the tubs! What's next the four link?

OK, I'm being a little obtuse here but, what brand and type of two-part catalyzed putty are you guys using? How much do you keep on hand, as in what's the smallest container you were able to buy?

Paint here too, get a measurement from a scale plate and reduce the Acme plate until it measures the same. Takes a couple of trys to get right but they don't take that much ink.

A liner brush is one that has a short dagger tip like a short pinstriping brush the hair at the tip will be around 1/2" tapering down to around 1/4" inch or so has a lot of "belly" in the brush that can be loaded with paint flowing down to the tip for line work. Not to be confused with an actual pinstriping brush where the brush itself is around 1/4"- 1" wide and around 2-1/2 to 3" long with tapered tip. As Harry said the best brushes to get are sable, Kolinsky sable is the best and is priced accordingly, I get a lot of my watercolor brushes from Cheap Joe's Art Stuff in Boone NC, cheapjoes.com they are cheaper than Dick Blick, dickblick.com and have a better selection. (that's just my oppinion.) I've got a few of my detail brushes at Cheap Joe's look for watercolor or acrylic brushes. Some of the synthetic/sable blends are pretty good as well the sable holds the paint and the synthetic gives it a snap (spring back)

Very Cool. Not sure I'd really worry about the grommets, until I read that you had used paint I was under the impression that they were grommets/eyelets. Pretty convincing already. That would never fly in my neighborhood, they got "Blue Tarp" restrictions!

Ira, You must have read my mind with the headlights, may as well use the front and back bumper while you are at it at least they're chrome. I'm in the process of collecting parts to build another detailed "Mr Gasser". I am going to use a modified Revell Willys Street Rod frame under it, haven't decided about using the Hemi yet. Thinking about molding and casting rear tires either from the Super Fuzz or Manglia kits, both of which look 100% better than the tiny stock kit tires. Would like to make this version look as closely to the Danbury Mint version of "Mr Gasser as well as the version done in the "Amazing Vehicular Modeler". Lead the way I'm following this one, just like all of your Kool Kustom Monster builds!

I got my first Lego's for Christmas in 1962 or 1963, when they first came out here in the U.S. they were all brick for the most part ( full, half and double if I remember). The windows came first then wheels, gears evolving to what we know today as Lego's. I still have a five gallon bucket full to the top of some pretty vintage Lego's that have passed through me, both my brothers, nephews and neices, my son and daughter and are being played with by a third generation. Let's see any other toy that can take that much of a workout and still survive, some of them don't fit as tight as they used to but they still lock together. I remember the first ones fit so tightly together that you almost had to literally pry them apart! My older brother and I had some of the American Bricks before I got Lego's, as Harry said they fit really loosely together. We used to make American Brick walls across our 1/24th scale Strombecker slot car track then start from the back of the wall racing to see who could get there first sending brick flying. Try that with a Lego block wall and you'd probably total out the slot car! My wife got me a Seattle Space Needle Lego kit the other day, she said it was like watching a kid playing with the Lego's. Have to admit it brought a smile to my face and made me feel like a kid too!

I've used their Jell Claw Tires on a few of my slot cars. Their quality is far superior to some of the other slot car tire makers, they fit and are round from the start little or no truing. They are easy to deal with and ship quick. I have been thinking about their ez chrome, looks a lot like the original BMF used to be. Based on the quality of their tires, I would say their other stuff should be pretty good as well.

Flash and excessive mold lines are a quality problem. Doesn't really matter where the cause lies, what matters is how much the manufacturer is willing to pass off to the consumer. With today's vastly improved design, manufacturing and molding technology flash is pretty much unacceptable. Especially when one considers that our hobby like it or not isn't growing in numbers by leaps and bounds. With a limited number of hobbiests the manufacturers should be bending over backwards to put out quality kits especially at the today's prices!

Great start, I'll be following this one as well. Have you thought about using a torsion bar set up in front instead of the quarter eliptical springs? If you stick with the springs you might want to think about a smaller set up. The mock up makes the front end look pretty heavy. All in all I like the direction you are heading.

Ira, I like the direction that you are taking "Mr Gasser" you have a real talent imagination when it comes to these kind of models. For some reason Revell never quite interpolated Ed Roth's artwork into the models. They are all a bit on the crude side in some respects but in others they are marvels of die work. They are well engineered in respect to the actual figures though the cars lack a lot. Of the later production runs of the Roth monster kits that I've built there seems to be some if the same kits that are heavy on the flash and others that are really tight with minimal flash. I have had the pleasure of building a few of the original Roth kits (out of some pretty crusty boxes), even then there was some slight flash present. The only worse monster kits of the time period were the Hawk Weird-Oh's, they only slightly resemble Bill Campbell's artwork redefining crude, still a fun build though. So what are you going to do with "Mr Gasser's" bottom end after the complete amputation of his butt and legs? Looking at one of my unbuilt "Mr Gasser" '57 Chevy bodies it looks like you might be able to turn Gasser's bottom end so that he is sitting instead of standing (as in stock form). The feet on the monsters were one of the better parts.

Got a bunch of cheapies crimped onto bamboo skewers. Work great for holding parts while painting.

Ira, you took Freddy's bat and hit another one out of the park with this one. You're reigniting the Wierd-Oh's, Deal's Wheels, Big Daddy Roth monsters flames all over. You've always been a trend setter! Retro this time! I'm enjoying the heck out of your latest builds.

First time I've seen this one out of the box, might see about picking one up. First thing that popped into my warped mind. With all those raised and recessed panel lines this one would look great as a woodgrained (with paint) woody and some trendy milk graphics. With all that area to cover it screams for something more than the sorta dated box graphics.

Too Cool Ira, staying tuned to see how the Hog himself turns out!

Thanks for the Prescription Doc, Been using the Tamiya, Apoxie and Magic Sculpt putty for a while. Also use Super Glue both thick and thin with baking soda. Cant remember where I got this tip for the baking soda. A couple of drops of food coloring mixed into the baking soda then allowed to dry before using it with the super glue helps match the plastic color and or to give a good contrast to the plastic you are trying to blend. Mix up enough to fill a 35 mm film can (if you can find one now days) and you'll have more then enough to last a long time. Super glue works well for blending joints and building up mismatch, like on some of the old Ed Roth and Weird-Oh's figures.

Someone asked the other day about a conversion factor inches to metric. I work in engineering using that math you wondered if you'd ever use in school. We engineers are smart enough most of the time not to reinvent the wheel. When we see the easy way out we usually take it! We use this exe program all the time it's called Convert.exe, it will convert more things than anyone in their right mind will ever need to convert. Did a quick search and came up with this source, it is the same exact Convert.exe program that i've got on my computer at work. Try it out it just might get you the information you need. It's free too! Convert.exe http://joshmadison.c...rt-for-windows/

Like what you've done with Davey. The eyes have it! The bike is so much better than the little scoot that comes with the kit. If that's not enough weight to counterbalance the "top end" you might try either lead or steel shot. I've used it before in my Ed Roth and Weird-Oh's it keeps the figure planted on it's feet like they are supposed to be. In stock form Davey takes a bit of weight to keep him in the saddle. You can get shot at any sporting goods store that has shotgun reloading supplies. Drill a 1/4" hole. Squirt some white glue down the hole. Use either a small funnel or paper cone to pour the shot through the hole. Keep going until you have enough shot to keep the figure planted where you want it. Layer more white glue on top of the shot. Let dry. Once dry, you've got a weighted figure that the balast is going to stay put no matter what position the figure is in.