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Stock Tire Size 5.50 X 15" Bias Ply and Front Continental and Perelli Radial Tires Ranging from 135 to 165 X 15" X 4.5" wide rim (stretching tires was unheard of in the 60's and early 70's), Rear Tires Continental and Perelli Ranging from 165 to 285 X 15" X 5.5" Rim. (Chrome Porsche 356 wheels available in 4.5 and 5.5 widths, wide five bolt pattern, then early 70's in the then new 4 bolt pattern.) VW Steel Wheel Size 15" X 4.5 - both wide Five and four bolt patterns, Some of the Type II Buses ran 4.5" X 15" and 4.5" X 14" Wide five steel wheels up until buses switched to 4-bolt pattern wheels. Late 60's - Early 70's Cal Look VW Bugs began running the Big & Little combination of front 135 X 15" and 145 X 15" Perelli Radials and rear 265 - 285 X 15" Perelli Radials on BRM, EMPI, Porsche wide five with 356 Nipple Hubcaps and other Rare wide five bolt pattern wheels on mostly Pre-1967 Bugs. (a lot of VW Performance gurus were of the opinion that 1967 was the last year VW produced a good Bug to start with for either race or hot street cars, as the wide five bolt pattern was thought to be stronger, as were the swing axle transaxles and link pin front ends were better parts to start with for both hot street, drag and off-road racing.) A lot of the Hot Rod guys in the early to mid-60's ran 135 X 15" and 145 X 15" Perelli Radials on some of the early steel and aluminum "mag" wheels, Perelli seems to be the favored Radial tire among many of the Hot Roders. Bias Ply Tires 5.50 X15" and 5.60 X 15" were used up front on a whole lot of hot rods. Stock VW Wheel Size 15" X 4.5 Wide Five 1950 (and earlier) through 1967, 1968 through the end of aircooled Type I production, some of the more sporty late model beetles got wider wheels, some with 14" diameters. All of the VW sized tires will mount right up to just about any appropriate width Cragar, US Mag, Centerline, Radir... wheel, probably looking better for 60's and 70's cars, up until the time that Moroso and others began making purpose built drag racing tires. The Perelli Radial tire is what a whole lot of the 60's gassers wore on their front ends. Probably more than you were looking for, but hope it helps.

I'm with all the others who use MAD prewired distributors. The other Go-To Distributors are Replicas & Miniatures of MD, Norm makes a great drilled distributor, you supply the wiring, but all the holes are clean and wire ready. Bench-time is valuable, I try to spend it as wisely as possible. That is, if there is a product readily available like MAD & R & M distributors, then any extra expense is justified, (cost is minimal compared to time spent prepping a kit distributor).

Plastic bench vise, got it off of eBay some time ago, lightly clamp down on the transmission or oil pan and wire away. Looks pretty darn similar to the one in the eBay auction here, they have gone up in price since I bought a couple of them. They work great for holding stuff while you are carving it up with the Dremel, I use one for wood carving with my Dremel. They are a whole lot stronger than they look, non-marring. If you choose to get one make sure you get the one with the four threaded posts, they hold round stuff like rims and stuff. They are great for brush painting and detailing as well. I'll just give the link, don't want to steal someone's eBay auction pics. Little Plastic Vice Clamp Table Jaw Drill Press Vice Opening for Jewelry | eBay

OK, then I think I may know what the issue is. How long did you shake the can before you began spraying the primer? Now that you said this was your primer, it sort of makes sense, it looks like you got more solvent than you did pigment. Primer and many flats are really bad about the solvent and pigment separating in the can, (the longer they sit on the store shelf the more separated they get). They will stay right where they are unless you aggressively shake them into suspension! Sometimes you have to vigorously shake the can until you even start to hear the agitator marble break loose and rattling around inside the can. Keep in mind that as soon as you hear the marble rattle it's just broken loose from all the wet pigment in the can. So, you're going to have to keep shaking the can just about until you think your arm is going to fall off, then switch arms! A good screen before you buy the paint is to shake it up to see how long it takes to hear the marble rattle around, if it takes 10 - 20 seconds, it's a pretty fresh can, buy it! I normally vigorously shake a primer rattle can for somewhere around 3 - 4 minutes after I first hear the marble rattling around in the can. From about that point, the 3 - 4-minute agitation starts. Shaking the can that long is going to do a couple of things for you, 1. Ensure the Pigment is fully mixed into the solvent. 2. Continued agitation continues building internal pressure inside the can, you'll get more spray time out of it that way. 3. Make sure that the paint/prime is warmed with Hot tap water, this helps with the spray flow and accelerates the flash time; this alone is going to help with that thin appearance. Once you have a system that works for you stick with it until you have a process dialed in so you can repeat it over and over.

That is exactly my thought, you could work on the environmental factors affecting this paint. Like - Making certain that the recommended spraying temperature is within what is recommended on the can. Warming the paint in the can before it is sprayed. Laying down a decent primer coat before the color coat is applied. Exercise as much patience as you absolutely have in you to lay down thin, smooth coats of paint.

The "proper" term with Pre-War, early Hot Roders was "A V-8" a short form of Model A with a V-8 stuffed between the frame rails for more power. I've read articles and passages from early Hot Roding books which refer to a body year A V-8, i.e. '28 A V-8... With the resurgence of early and traditional Hot Rods the term A V-8 is still bandied about.

Ulf, Thats a great Idea, I use the grid paper too. I lay it on a piece of 0.125" X 9" X 12" Cold Rolled Steel that I can use magnets, machinist's blocks, and small angle irons to get things squared up with everything else. It's the next best thing to a chassis table, which yours looks the part as well. As long as you use a stable flat (or dead flat) surface to base everything else off of and carry that into going vertical things are going to stay that way. Granted, most of us never, ever went to such an extent with our models when we were a whole lot younger, for the most part they looked OK. However, this type of system is what is used in a model shop where they turn out museum quality work, nothing wrong with adding precision into the mix to get a better model in the end!

R & D Unique, I have the frame only that I got in trade with some other parts, it was distributed through the boxes as well almost as if the original owner was contemplating using parts from the frame here and there. I did put it together, use a small dab of epoxy on all joints, make sure that you have everything absolutely squared up and the frame rails parallel to one another, or it will end up an unusable mess! I used a piece of cold rolled steel and magnets to get it aligned, it's fun! Certainly not a beginner project. I've never used it because I tend to do traditional Hot Rods and it's a modern version of the Deuce frame.

Or an hour or two in the dehydrator and its ready to sand.

Just used some mineral spirits, eyedropper between upside down bottle's lid last night. Allowed it to sit for a couple of hours and it opened right up by hand! I had been trying to open the bottle with water pump pliers and the stupid thing wouldn't even budge! Great trick! This was a last shot effort; I was heading to Hobby Town in the morning if it didn't work.

I've used Composi Mold to cast some small parts, for both Roth Models and model cars and such. It works pretty well, I didn't find that it was too hot on the plastic master that there was any damage to it. In fact there was no noticable effect to the master. In my oppinion, Composi Mold, doesn't give you as crisp of a finished surface on the casting as say a silicone mold compound does. Composi Mold is somewhat simpler to use than silicone. So there are advantages and disadvantages to each. It's a good tool to have when making a quick casting when you are in a bit of a hurry to get things done.

These are all great methods for cleaning brushes, in my opinion you should treat every brush as if it were an expensive brush. Here's some brush tips from years of fooling around with pinstriping and sign painting (for profit). I apprenticed as a sign painter way back in the late '70s and have used it as a second gig for a lot of years after leaving the craft for higher paying work. So I've played around with an expensive brush or two ($40 - $70+ dollars per brush type expensive). You can rig a little clothesline thing up with some string and use regular clothes pins to hang the brush by the end allowing the brush itself to straighten out and air dry. Gravity will keep the hairs of the brush straight. The first rule to remember with good paint brushes is to never store them standing by the hair, or soak standing in thinner, and not to scrub the hairs against something like the bottom of the paint pot to clean the bristles. It can bend the hair, snap hair off at the ferrule or even give a good brush split ends, no amount of hair conditioner is going to get them unsplit again! With all cleaning methods, be gentle with the bristles, never jab or scour the bristles, you will only end up with a clean but damaged useless brush. I almost always use low odor mineral spirits in a three-pot cleaning method, this method alone will keep your brushes cleaner. First pot clean looking but slightly contaminated mineral spirits, with maybe a slight bit of gunk settled at the bottom. Second pot, cleaner mineral spirits than the first pot. Third pot clean mineral spirits right from the container. Clean from pot one, two, three, using a soft cloth such as an old tee shirt material gently grasping the hairs between the cloth and lightly pulling away from the rag a few times until it comes out pretty clean. Then go to the next pot/cup until you get to the third final cup, you should now have a squeaky-clean brush. Some like to use cheap lacquer thinner as a final clean, you only need one cup to dip and draw the brush. Goes without saying, that if you are using lacquer paints, use lacquer thinner to clean the brush, using the same three pot system. Next step which is optional but works well if you are storing brushes for an extended period, dip the brush into some clean unscented mineral oil then pull the brush through a clean cloth. Leave a small amount of mineral oil on the brush and store it that way. The mineral oil will keep any paint trapped in the ferrule from hardening and causing the hairs to snap off the next time you use the brush. Before using the brush, the next time, clean the mineral oil out of the brush with cheap lacquer thinner, use like normal. I have stored brushes like this for several years at a time, it is a time honored signwriter's and pin striper's method of storing both animal hair and synthetic brushes. I also store many of my better Kolinsky and Red Sable brushes used for models this same way. I store natural hair brushes flat, not standing on end, I've seen brushes develop a curl from standing on end. Brushes used for Acrylic Paints - Acrylics have a bad habit of soaking into the ferrule of the brush, about the only way that I have found to clean the paint out of the ferrule is to use an ultrasonic cleaner with a couple drops each of dish soap and Windex. Lay the brush as flat as possible in the ultrasonic cleaner's vat and watch the paint boil out of the brush, even a squeaky-clean looking brush! For the most part, I use synthetic brushes for all my acrylic painting which is getting more and more as the paint gets better. (Or maybe it is me getting better with the paint!) I store all brushes natural and synthetic hair lying flat where the surface supports the hair of the brush. Keeps the brush from having a bad hair day! If it happens, and it's happened to almost all of us, if it hasn't it will. Get some "The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver" sold a most art related stores. Wet the brush for an hour or two to hydrate the hair. Next, draw the brush across the Brush Preserver until it develops a soapy lather. Draw the hairs of the brush between your fingers until the hair is flat and straight without any hint of curl. Allow the brush to dry this way and it will set in a straight position. Let the brush lay flat and dry this way for a few days at least. Wash the soap out of the brush and you should find a straight brush again. If not, rinse and repeat until it does! I've saved some pretty bent and dirty bristles this way, I know it works. I could probably go on with brush trickery but for most this is the information needed to maintain a good set of brushes. So if you have any weird brush issues, I might be able to answer your questions, or at least I can find out through my contacts in the sign and striping world.

Thinking of doing similar with the '65 GTO, I am looking at using the firewall and any under hood details from the AMT '65 GTO Convertible / Hardtop kit. I thought it was pretty much a no-brainer swap, that is unless you've looked at it a different way than I am. The '65 GTO Convertible / Hardtop kit essentially is the same as the New Tool '65 GTO Hard Top so, using the old '65 GTO kit seemed easiest start to me. Another possibility would be the Revell '65 Chevelle, that's too nice a kit to rob the firewall from though, maybe a junker off of eBay? You could always make a mold of the Revell '65 Chevell's firewall and start there. Once you start correcting the firewall, then you'll be looking at the 389 engine, the older AMT '65 GTO kit does not have a very good 389 so this is going to be my major issue for such a conversion. It's like a detailing domino effect, you start with one thing and a bunch of other things keep popping up!

Elmer's School Glue or Alene's Tacky Glue both are PVA glues they set and hold without penetrating the styrene, then easily pulled apart, scrape off when finished looking over the Mockup.

After looking at the WoodRiver Center Finder, I went ahead and bought one. I just checked it against my Center Finder Square using 1/2", 1/4" and 1/8" bar stock, it is dead accurate. So, anyone looking for an accurate budget friendly tool to find the center of round stock, this one fits the bill. I'll be pulling it out before pulling my Center Finder Square to use on the workbench, it is accurate and robust enough for any of the duties a modeler will ask it to do and then some! Looks exactly like the one attached below. WoodRiver Key Chain Center Finder - WoodRiver Pen Blank Key Chain Center Finder | eBay @ $6.99 + Shipping (U.S. Seller)

Maybe one of the dedicated "searchers" or "Googlers" can come up with your old thread. I'm pretty much the same as you, if I can't find it, I ask, that's what forums are for sharing knowledge not memorizing where to find everything. I'm not a patina kind of modeler, however. I think your micro ballons and CA glue idea has lots of potential. For a more irregular grained effect, why not try the thin CA glue and baking soda. The reaction between the baking soda and the CA glue almost always produces a rough raised texture which can then be knocked down to whatever height of paint defects or rust bubbles that you are going after. To do the CA glue and Baking Soda technique - First, using thin CA / Super Glue and regular old (Arm & Hammer) baking soda. Next - Place a thin layer of the thin CA glue. While it is still wet, dust a fine layer of baking soda over the wet CA glue. The reaction between the two will produce a hard granulated effect, resembling heavy surface rust. Next - Work the grainy surface by sanding to the level of surface defect you are after. Then - Wash the part(s) with warm soapy water and dry and paint using paint distressing methods that will produce a peeling or chipped effect, such as salt, rubber cement... Keep working the areas until you have achieved the level of distress you are after. This CA glue technique stops way short of using CA & Soda as a body filler by building the CA & Soda up in thin layers then covering it with a medium or thick layer of CA glue and spraying an accelerator onto the wet glue to produce a smooth almost plastic surface. The rest is opinion - I know there are several on this forum who either don't like or else have had poor results with CA glues and baking soda in the past. I wouldn't shy away from using it either, for what you are going after. I've used CA and baking soda for probably 25+ years, with models in other peoples and my own collections exhibiting no adverse effects. The trick I think is to build it up in small layers then encapsulate with either a medium or thick CA glue to soften the grainy texture. Figure modelers and those who build the Roth Monsters, Weird Oh's, and other old (not so well designed and molded) monster kits have been using CA & soda since at least the '80s, when I first saw it used. Which is where I picked up the technique, then again, I also go back to the "Plastic Wood" days of model building! Incidentally many of those who do not like CA & soda as fillers also do not like using lacquer based automotive and hobby spot putty as filler, their preferred filler being the two-part Bondo type fillers. Each filler has their own unique properties or uses, which in the hands of an experienced user can and usually does produce great results time after time.

To answer your ride height question, unless I am mistaken, the ride height is limited to being raised to the point of 24" clearance between the center of the crankshaft bolt and the pavement. "Engines may not be raised more than 24 inches from the ground, measured from the centerline of the front crank pulley to the ground." This sets the front ride height. Straighliner59 - Dan Himmel probably has a better explanation for this, that's the kind of stuff I've seen him build and from the old Straightliner forum (sad to see that one fold.) where Gassers were pretty common. - Please weigh in on that for us if you will Mr. Himmel. Below is an excerpt (cut & paste) from a post on another forum, for a Gasser Challenge which copied the 1965 NHRA Gassers section of the NHRA Rulebook. Should be pretty easy to figure out and find the classification of the car you are modeling by the Production Vehicle Weight (advertised) divided by the Engine C.I. will give you the Pounds per Cubic Inch - Example Class A/Gas = 5.00 to 8.99 # per cu in. Larry Davis's Gasser Wars Drag Racings Street Classes: 1955 – 1968 is probably just about the definitive reference for NHRA, AHRA gassers, I have it in my library and refer to it often. Although they are not specifically mentioned the VW gassers ran in the H/Gas and I/Gas classes, I'm not sure what the weight breaks were for them though, guess well have to imagine what a styrene VW weighs if anyone builds one! Hope this information helps your build. NHRA Gassers 1955 – 1968 Given Definitions: Vehicle Weights: Start with manufacturer's vehicle weight Engines: Any Pre-1968 Production Automotive Engine (No Diesel) Cars / Truck Body Styles: Pre-1968 Production Body Style which fits into the Reference Sources Reference Sources: 1. Gasser Wars Drag Racings Street Classes: 1955 – 1968 Larry Davis, Published by Car Tech 2003 2. George Class Remembers – Gas Coupes/Sedans www.georgeklass.net/gassers.html 3. Nostalgia Gassers Racing Association Operating on the - NHRA 1965 Rule Book (shown below) NHRA Rules Gas –Coupes/Sedans (G) Taken from the 1965, Official NHRA Rule Book – Coupe/Sedan Class aka Gas Class or Gassers for short. 1965 Official Drag Rules III Street Section The street section is for “dual-purpose” cars capable of starting under their own power. Cars in this section must be capable of being driven on the street. Bodies, engines, drive trains, etc. may not be altered, modified or relocated except as noted in class requirements. Push starts not allowed. Return to the pit area by use of a push car is permitted, return to the pit area by use of a push car is permitted with any supercharged Street Section Car. Any pre-1960 unblown 4-cylinder automotive production engine with any type head and any year Chevrolet 6-cylinder engine with stock production type head may compete in the flathead classes of this section. A. Gas Coupes and Sedans Division (G) Seven (8) classes of competition in this division for non-supercharged cars. Class is determined by the total car weight divided by total cubic inches of engine displacement. Designations: A/G, B/G, C/G, D/G, or E/G F/G preceded by car number. Class ‘A’ – 5.00 to 8.99 # per cu in Class ‘B’ – 9.00 to 10.49 # per cu in Class ‘C’ – 10.50 to 11.49 # per cu in Class ‘D’ – 11.50 to 12.99 # per cu in Class ‘E’ – 13.00 to 14.59 more # per cu in Class ‘F’ – 14.60 or more lbs. per cu in For non-supercharged pre-1968 flathead V8’s, in-line six-cylinder and straight 8 engines with stock production heads Designations G/G and H/G preceded by car number Class ‘G’ — 5.00 to 10.99 # per cu in Class ‘H’ — 11.00 or more # per cu in B. Supercharged Gas Coupes/Sedans (GS) Three (3) classes of competition in this division for car equipped with super-charged engines. Designations A/GS. B/GS, C/GS preceded by car number Class A — 5.00 to 8.99 # per cu in Class B — 9.00 to 11.99 # per cu in Class C — 12.00 or more # per cu in Class requirements for Supercharged Gas Coupes/Sedans division are the same as those outlines for all cars in the street section, except as noted below. Ballast: Permitted. Refer to Ballast as outlined in the Safety Regulations. Batteries: All wet-cell batteries must be located outside the driver or passenger compartments and must be securely mounted. A maximum of two passenger car batteries is permitted to 150 pounds combined maximum weight. Belly-pans: Belly pans are permitted in Modified Sports classes only. Body: Gas Coupes/Sedans – Must have a coupe or sedan body originally produced by an American automobile manufacturer. Any foreign coupe or sedan may compete in this division as long as it meets all of the class requirements; a minimum of 92 inches stock wheelbase, fenders, frame, etc. Moderate customizing is permitted but bodies may be chopped, channeled, or sectioned not more than 4 inches total height reduction. Bodies cannot otherwise be altered in height, width, length or contour. Roll bars are required on all convertibles, all customized cars (i.e. chopped, sectioned, etc.) all Supercharged cars using fiberglass components, i.e., hood, fenders, doors, trunk lids, regardless of class. Highly recommended in all other classes. Removal of front body panels or fender bracing not permitted. The use of fiberglass bodies in the Gas Coupes/Sedans Division is not permitted. Lightening bodies by drilling holes or gutting interior is not permitted. Convertible couples/sedans with roll-up windows compete in the division but must run with the top up. Sedan Delivery, pickup trucks, Ranchero, El Camino, etc. may compete in this division. Pickup beds must be of standard height and width a minimum of 36 inches in length and have a full serviceable pickup bed. All cars in this division must have fully operative mechanical door handles to permit exit and/or entrance for either side. Bodies and/or frames may not be raised to gain weight-transfer to rear wheels. Brakes: All cars in the Street Division must be equipped with four-wheel hydraulic brakes, operated by a foot pedal, mounted in the conventional manner. Emergency brake is optional. Bumpers: Bumpers are not required; however, in lieu of rear bumper, a suitable (permanently attached) push-bar must be installed on the rear of the car. Total weight of bumper and/or push bar with brackets must not exceed 50 pounds. Disguised ballast will not be permitted. Driveline: May be modified to fabricated to fit altered units. Refer to driveline Safety Regulations. Driver: Driver must be in stock location. Seats may be to the rear to permit added leg room, but not to exceed 4 inches from stock location, provided no part of the driver’s body extends behind the rear axle. Engine: Automobile engine required, however, year, make & model are optional. Any modifications may be made so the engine and/or component parts including clutch & flywheel. No more than one engine permitted. Engine may be located but not to exceed 10% of the wheelbase as measured from the centerline of the front spindles to the nearest spark plug hole. Engines may not be raised more than 24 inches from the ground, measured from the centerline of the front crank pulley to the ground. Rear engine location is not permitted in Street Section, unless it is an originally produced manufactured rear-engine car, retaining original engine. Modified-engine Corvair compete in Gas Coupes/Sedans classes. If modified and blown Corvairs compete in the Supercharged Gas Coupes/Sedans. Exhaust System: Open exhaust, split manifolds and/or individual headers are permitted, but must be terminate in a collector, permanently and securely attached. A maximum of two outlets per car. All exhaust systems must be designed to route exhaust gasses in a downward and out–conventional–manner, away from the car and tires. Mufflers and tailpipes are optional. No flexible pipe permitted on any car running in competition. Fenders: Gas Coupes/Sedans—must have four full stock production type automobile fenders. Exact duplicated of stock fenders made of fiberglass are permitted. Rear fenders may be altered for clearance to permit the use of wide slicks. Fender Splash Pans: May be trimmed for header clearance, but not removed. Flywheel/Clutch: The use of stock type cast-iron flywheels and/or pressure plates is prohibited. Explosion proof units, in lieu of the above, are mandatory. Flywheel Shield: Required on all cars in this section except ones equipped with a pre-1961 Hydromantic transmissions. Non-supercharged care when equipped with a Torque-Flite transmission do not need flywheel shields. Fuel Systems: Refer to NHRA Safety Regulations, Fuel Systems. Frame: Must be stock automobile type frame. Properly reinforced stepped -frames are accepted. Cross members may be altered or relocated. Hood: Required on all cars in this section. Side panels may be omitted. All carburetors, injector bodies and supercharged must be completely covered by the hood. Injector tubes and supercharger air scoops may extend through the hood are accepted. Radiator & Grill: Required, Must be a stock passenger car type as large in overall frontal area as the original radiator, mounted in a conventional forward location. Rear end: Quick-change rear-ends, locked differentials, or ratchet-type (limited slip) rear-ends are accepted, only if installation includes suitable safety hubs. Rear-wheel drive only; four-wheel-drive care are not permitted in Street Section. Street Equipment: All cars in Street Section must be able to start under their own power> License plates, generator, windshield wipers/motors, fans and fan belts and horns are optional. Headlights and tail-lights are required for legal on the street operation are required for competition. Suspension: Each car in this section must have a full production-type suspension system; on commonly used by automobile manufacturer, and equipped with at least one hydraulic shock absorber per wheel. Rigid mounted axles are not permitted. Excessive chopping and/or machining of component chassis and suspension parts is prohibited. Transmission: Must have full transmission, either standard or automatic, with full shift-pattern and gears for transmission used. May be of any year, make or model. Any gear ration accepted. A minimum of 3 forward and 1 reverse required on all stick=shift (manual) transmissions. Transmissions must remain in conventional locations, determined by engine used. Upholstery: Interiors may not be gutted. Must run full upholstery, equivalent to factory specifications. Floor mats optional. Bucket seats may replace stock seats (two required), only if they are fully upholstered. Rear seats are optional. Factory-type upholstery and/or paneling must be used in lieu of the above. Roll Bar: Roll bars are required on all cars as designated in Bodies headings; refer also to Safety Section, Roll Bars, for construction information and requirements. Wheelbase: All Gas Coupes/Sedans, Supercharged Gas Coupes/Sedans must retain stock wheelbase length and tread width for the type of car body used. Minimum wheelbase length is 92 inches. All 1948 to 1953 English Fords, Anglia series, although not meeting minimum wheelbase requirements are accepted for competition in Gas Coupes/Sedans classes. Ruling applies only of entry meets all other class regulations and requirements. Engine installations are restricted to small-block Chevys or equivalents: i.e., 265, 283, 327, etc. Larger basic blocks not accepted. Superchargers not permitted. Wheelbase must remain stock. Wheels & Tires: Each car competing in Gas Coupes/Sedans class, Supercharged Gas Coupes/Sedans class must be equipped with automotive type wheels and tires suitable for street use. Magnesium disc-type wheels are permitted for use on the rear. Lightweight automotive-type wire or motorcycle wheels are not permitted. Windshield & Windows: Windows may be replaced with Plexiglass of 1/8 inch minimum thickness.

OK, finally had the time to peruse eBay for the Center Finder Squares and a couple alternatives all of which are less than Micromark and new items. I looked under both preowned and used machinist tools with zero hits, which is no surprise because the items change all the time. I have seen them there before though, so if one is patient and doesn't need it right now, keep looking until one shows up. So, if you just can't wait or need it now here are three listings for new center finders which will give you an accurate way to find center in round stock. WoodRiver Key Chain Center Finder - WoodRiver Pen Blank Key Chain Center Finder | eBay @ $6.99 + Shipping (U.S. Seller) Small Plastic Center Finder - Plastic Center Finder For Round And Sexangle Woodwork Tool | eBay @ $7.69 Free Shipping (Seller is in China) Taylor Tools Center Finder Square - Taytools 1-1/2" Machinist Center Finder Square 150720 469508 | eBay @ $12.99 Free Shipping (U.S. Seller) The only issue I have with Micromark and others who sell inexpensive Chinese made tooling is the fit and finish. I have had several tools that I've had to deburr or break an edge which could cut the user under normal intended use. If the seller is calling the tool "Tool Maker or Tool & Die Maker Grade" then it should be ready to use right out of the packaging (no corrections needed to use safely). I've also had a few that surprised me with superior fit and finish, superior grade tooling right out of the package. There you go...

First, have you contacted MCW with pictures and details of your application methods? MCW is a "small" operation compared to big name paint manufacturers, so I would think that you can expect an answer and or some sort of remedy to your paint issue. That would be my first email, rather than trying MCW in the court of popular appeals; not that you can't expect a remedy here. I would give the manufacturer / distributor first shot though. Second, to me, your picture doesn't indicate a humidity issue, there is no flush to that paint at all it has reacted to something and is somewhat shiny. If it were smoother, it might be rubbed, or color sanded out. My bet is one or two wetter undercoats in rapid succession which were not fully flashed off followed by a quick heavy topcoat which the solvent reacted through to the primer, maybe under the primer to the plastic. Test it: If you have any of the paint, left try shooting a couple of spoons or a small, primed panel to see if you get any reaction to the same prep, same paint procedures and similar shop conditions. Tip: If you can get the free Formica 2" X 3" samples at your local home center, pick up a few of the smoother ones, sand the color side with 600 - 800 grit then prime and paint them as paint test panels. The dehydrator won't affect them, (the paint sands off easy enough for reuse). Just don't tell the countertop salesperson what you're using them for and don't take so many so often that you're being a pest.

Looks like everybody and their brother recommended the right tool for the job, the Center Finder Square, back when I worked in the machine shop as an Inspector for Boeing, I used one all the time. The Center Finder takes all the mathematical steps out of figuring out the actual center in two steps check at 0 Deg. (North) rotate a quarter turn 90 Deg. (East) marking both measurement as you make them and end up with a crosspoint in the center of the circle. - Easiest Method Better Cheaper Method - The other quick and dirty (easy) cheap method is using a set of dial or digital calipers or micrometer to measure the O.D. of the rod/circle then divide that by 2 giving you both the Radius and the Center of the Circle. R = D/ 2 = (Center or Radius) then set your calipers to that number and measure at 0 deg and 90 deg and there's your center just like the center finder. This would probably be my preferred method as a modeler as many of us already have a set of calipers, vernier, dial, digital and a calculator or pencil and paper. Personally, I would probably never chord or arc a circle to find its center, there are so many other quick, simple ways to accurately measure the exact center point. That is unless you just have to impress someone with your vast knowledge, then by all means go for it! Even as an Engineer (now Retired), I would never Arc or Chord a circle, that's for math, geometry or trig classes, (ancient history for most of us). I'm all for the easy way that a non-technical person will understand and pick up quickly, remembering how to solve the problem again and again. You can also find Center Finder Squares on eVilbay new or used for cheaper than Micromark or other precision tool sellers, quality is going to be the same of the Chinese made stuff and Micromark's (Chinese Stuff). On eBay under used Machinist's Tools search, you might come up with a Starrett, Lufkin, Brown & Sharpe, Mitutoyo or other reputable American Made tooling sometimes cheaper than the new Chinese made tool. For what we do as modelers a cheap Chinese made center finder will work just as well as anything. Even then, unless you are finding a whole lot of centers for rods, wheels... it might be overkill, I'd rather have a decent set of 6' dial or digital calipers with multiple uses than a center finder square with a specific usage. If you own and use a lathe, then a center finder square would pay off in time saved, otherwise it's a neat widget that won't get used as often as you imagine it will

You did good for a first try, every one of us has been there on one aspect of modeling or another. The under-hood picture shows how gravity effects the ignition wires giving them the drooping effect which frankly without consulting a good picture is difficult to visualize. When I go to car shows, I wander around taking pics of the under-hood and other significant aspects of the cars, even if its not the same type of car the pictures help with what I'm working on. Biggest hint here is to build up a photo library either off the 'Net or from car shows, it will pay off big dividends in your models.

I hope so, but I'm not holding my breath either!

You must have read the late Grady Ragsdale's* book Steve McQueen, the final chapter. It's a good read and a great insight into Steve McQueen's head, he led as rough a life as he portrayed in the movies. *Grady was my third cousin; I didn't know that he was hanging around with Steve McQueen in Santa Paula at the time though.

I think I saw this in print in either TRJ or Modern Rodding magazine a while back, yes there are some differences between the NZ replica and Steve Scott's Uncertain T. Like a third brake light, the brakes, steering wheel placement, the differences were mandated by NZ to meet their motor vehicle laws. All reverse engineered from an original Monogram kit.

This has been discussed over on the H.A.M.B. pretty extensively. In my opinion, it all boils down to the fact that when TRJ moved their H.Q. back east that they overextended themselves on the move, add the whole pandemic and Pat Gahnahl's untimely death on top of it all, a recipe for business disaster is the end result. If anyone was paying attention to the "handwriting on the wall", when TRJ began selling off all their back issues at greatly reduced prices after the move, (I did get some needed issues to fill holes in my collection). Hindsight being 20/20 I figure that TRJ was getting the needed capital to have their overseas (China) publisher bring issue #85 / #86 to be published. Personally, I don't ever expect to see another issue of TRJ, I had extended my subscription just before they moved their H.Q. east and almost immediately the white heavy duty TRJ mailing envelopes stopped coming on time. I've had the same thing happen with two other magazines about the same time, both of which had the decency to inform me; "Due to circumstances beyond our control, this is the last issue". In other words, they filed for bankruptcy, end of story. I pretty much figure that TRJ has done the same thing in order to separate the ownership from the debt of the TRJ corporation. That being the case, I sincerely doubt that any of us will ever see a dime refunded on our outstanding subscriptions or see another TRJ in the mailbox. That is unless it's an overpriced back issue off of eBay! A lot of businesses failed due to the government business closures and "stay at home" orders, TRJ is likely just another one on the big heap. If TRJ has exercised their legal remedy to dissolution of the corporation, which in all likelihood is what has happened, (lack of a web presence is an indicator of that). If so, there is probably not a whole lot that anyone's state AG can do to remedy the situation or return any of the subscriber's money.