Monty Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Many of us were fortunate enough to get the MRC wheel/tire packages back in the '90s. I thought the wheels were some of the best looking available, but it was the multitude of adapters that proved highly useful in getting these wheels to fit a variety of different model manufacturers' cars and trucks that made them kits so valuable. https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQCezWl8B-UmiJK660sK4vZ-VUI4UNds0r9PXMjEL4Us3zU7fU3 Since these kits have been out of production for over a decade and remaining kits are rare and expensive, I'd like to know whether the sprues with all the adapters can be copied as-is in resin. In other words, can the adapters be left on the sprues and the whole "tree" be copied in one shot? The "trees" are roughly 4"x 7". The benefit of these adapters goes beyond MRC wheels. The sheer number of adapters suggests they've covered the bases as far as using different wheels on a wider variety of subjects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 I would think they'd have to come off the sprues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Smith Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 (edited) Post a picture of the whole sprue. I would be interested to see how they are laid out and that might help experienced casters determine if it's possible. I would think with a two part mold that you pour resin into then squish together you could do it. Otherwise you might have problems with resin distribution and air bubbles. Edited February 4, 2014 by Erik Smith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goodguyinar416 Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 (edited) As Erik says they would most likely be a two part cast. Have to see better photos to decide! Art ABC Specialties Resin Casting http://public.fotki.com/Goodguyinar416/ Edited March 9, 2014 by goodguyinar416 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Wann Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 (edited) You would be better off removing the parts from the sprue. When I prep a part for a mold I try as best I can to cut the sprue that would be a little ways from the part leaving some sprue still attached to the part. Then I start sanding ever so carefully towards the part. I don't care if it takes an hour or four days. If you break a part off the sprue the part can become sort of bruised or part of the edge of the part will become rough. I really try to prep good clean master parts. I am not any good at body work or painting. I only make two part molds. The mold on the left makes the shaker scoop for a 77/78 Pontiac Trans Am. I incorporate brass rod into the mold to help properly form parts. Brass or some other metal is best for this use. Wood or plastic rod will become infused into the part unless you grease it well, preferably silicone grease like faucet grease. The waffle thing to it's right is set on top of the closed mold after the mold is set in the pressure pot. Another mold is set on top of it for weight. (I don't do this for making bodies) This helps excess resin and air escape creating a more exact part. Setting a part on it's own little pyramid of clay is better than placing all the parts on a flat surface. Just take a carefull look at parts in photos and observe the thickness of the flash that is around a formed resin part and that the parts were formed on a flat surface. Also observe that sometimes on a model kit the thickness of some flash that exists on a part that needs to be cleaned. When I first started casting I set parts on the same level and hated the results. The mold on the right is of the letters I make to mark the molds as you can see, it helps identify molds. It did not help make them any easier to locate. I just don't have to pick a mold up and open it to find out what it makes. Now if I could only call them by name and have them come to my casting table without really exerting any effort to find one. Observe that the color of the silicone can be seen through the flash around the formed letter. This would make my Dad proud. He would say that it is thin enough to read the Lords Prayer through it! My Dad was a farmer and very religious. http://smcbofphx.proboards.com/thread/1101/resin-tips The above link will take you to a page of resin casting tips I created based on my own observations. Probably some of it won't make much sense. Most of what I do was made up. The only real help I got was from Jeff the Time Machine Resin guy. Edited March 9, 2014 by Greg Wann Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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