Glues?... What do you use?

[MADDOG]

I am looking for some good info on what glues are best for fast and clean drying.

I have been using the same kind of glue since I first started and was thinking there must be something better out there then the old orange testers tube of glue.

Please let me know what you guys think is best.

Thanks

[Ace-Garageguy]

This has been discussed at length a hundred dozen times. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=79627

I prefer Tenax 7R when I can get it.

Edited April 24, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy

[Harry P.]

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/?showtopic=21536

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/?showtopic=29647

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=77329

[slusher]

It is up to the builder. I still use the Testors orange tube glue and Loctite super glue on hard to hold parts..

[Theo]

Hi MADDOG

You will probably get 5 answers for every 4 people who respond, but here goes.

My current pattern is this.

I use the Testors orange tube for parts that I know are going to need to be sanded/shaped after gluing. This is usually the case for engine blocks, trannys etc. My logic for these parts is that I want the multiple pieces to appear as a single part at the end. So to that end I am usually generous with the glue application on these parts so that seams are a bit raised and all gaps filled which I then sand down and shape prior to painting.

I use CA glue for parts that are going to be visible on the completed model and either require some holding strength (eg attaching subassemblies together such as frame to chassis) and for parts that go on after painting (eg door handles, bumpers). I most like the Hobbytown and Loctite brands.

I use Micro Liquidtape for most clear parts. It goes on like white glue. You apply to a single surface and then let dry until it is clear (usually only a few minutes). Once dry, it remains tacky so you can position and re-position windows, windshields, etc as needed until everything looks good. Then give a bit of firm pressure and things hold in place. NO residue on the clear part as the adhesive is basically a solid once dry. No more fogging from the CA "gassing out", no more drips from the squeezing out of the white glue which frequently left me with a "blob" of clear goop at the edge of the windshield.

And Finally, I use 2 part epoxy resins if doing any major modifications. This fills any large gaps and provides good structural support. As with the Testors, I am usually pretty generous and rather sloppy with the application of this product as I know I am going to be sanding and shaping afterwards so getting a strong, gapless hold is the priority.

More than you ever wanted to know, but hopefully a pearl in all that somewhere.

Theo

[MADDOG]

Theo thank you for the detailed info.

[Michael in Illinois]

I use the zap a gap brand CA. the medium thick version for just about everything. For windshields and other clear parts I use canopy glue. If I have a long seam that's when the liquid cement comes out. With the CA I use accelerator. I was building for AMT and needed to get kits done quickly for their schedule, that why CA is used. the canopy glue dries clear does not yellow and can be tacked up for adjustments. It also can be cleaned up with water.

[Bernard Kron]

Let's see how quickly I can summarize this...

Firstly, I'm very allergic to CA so Super Glue is off-limits for me. I used to use it and it can’t be beat for very fine work and, with Zap-A-Gap accelerator, for situations where an immediate bond is needed. It's also a great filler in shallow appplications, or, where more bulk is required, with talcum powder added to it. I wish I could still use it!

In my case I use specific adhesives for specific requirements:

For styrene to styrene bonding I use MEK (Methyl ethyl ketone), the active ingredient in most hobby store liquid styrene cements. I buy it super-cheap at the hardware store which means I can throw it out when it gets contaminated and cloudy. For styrene to styrene where I need some tackiness to the cement I use Testors tube cement in the red (orange) tube.

For dissimilar materials (i.e. resin to styrene, metal to styrene, metal to resin, etc.) and non-styrene bonding (metal to metal, resin to resin, etc.), I use 5-minute epoxy. I also use 5-minute epoxy for final assembly and for doing windows. I buy the big bottles at my LHS. Besides providing a super-strong bond which ensures a strong model, epoxy doesn’t attack paint or plastic so any excess can be cleaned up with rubbing alcohol without leaving a trace.

For temporary bonding, useful when doing mockups and where parts of the model need to be removable (for example hood panels), I use Ambroid Tac-N-Place applied very sparingly with a brush. Very strong bond, but parts can be easily separted, and it dries clear and can be removed (with some elbow grease) with water or alcohol.

There, that was pretty quick… But, yeah, this topic has been beaten to death many times here…

Edited April 26, 2014 by Bernard Kron

[MADDOG]

Guys thank you so much for your time in explaining theses different types of glues.