Need Advice On Custom Bodywork

[notfastenuff]

Hi everyone. What I'm trying to do is this, I've got a kit with a molded in body kit (ground effects). I don't like them and I want to "sand" them off. I've got the sides done with little to no problems. I've started looking at the back bumper, and for me to make it smooth and even with the sides, I'm gonna have to fill in the back of the body kit. The problem is the side skirts were solid, but the back part is V'ed. What I mean by this is if you're looking at it from the side, it looks like<. So, if I grind it smooth, I'm gonna go through it. Is there something that I can fill this with, sand/grind it, and it hold the bottom part that will seperate during the grinding process?

Really bad attempt to demonstrate, see below.

I hope I've explained this with out making it confusing. (I know I'm confusing myself)

Thanks!

model_drawing.bmp

Edited December 31, 2007 by notfastenuff

[Ken]

If the empty space that you want to fill is on the inside of the body it is easy. Fill it with superglue. I do it in thin layers. Put in some superglue and some baking soda to accelerate it. Add more superglue. Add some more baking soda. Do this till the space is full. Then sand down from the front. You have to start sanding as soon as you finish filling as the superglue will eventually dry harder than the surrounding plastic. Once it is sanded down you can fill imperfections in the superglue with body filler. For very small holes (pinholes) I use either Mr Surfacer 500 or 1000 or... you can use correction fluid.

[CAL]

White Milliput

[935k3]

Before you use any putty try filling the area as much as you caan with strip plastic(Evergreen has a triangular cross section strip) glued in with a good liquid model glue. If filled properly with plastic you can use a 1 part putty like Tamiya's(highly recomended). Plastic is always better than putty.Super Glue can work but allot of paints will allow it to show through on even the final color coats.

Edited January 1, 2008 by 935k3

[wolfer]

HI if i follow you right you will need to add as much sheet plastic as you can. when i do this i use plastic weld and superglue. as far as a putty goes i cant say enough about a 1.1 putty called eurosoft evercoar its a 2 part and has never shrank on me. but as i am new to this kind of work also test all products on some scrap first. hope this helps rob

[notfastenuff]

As far as some of the suggestions you guys made, I need to elaborate on my location. The only hobby type store I have near me is a Hobby Lobby. I have no real hobby shops. I'm not familiar with Milliput. I've heard of it, but that's about it. I also no longer have access to styrene, without driving about 50 miles for it. The ideas you guys are giving all sound great, but could you point me to somewhere online to get the stuff? I'm sorry to be a nag.

[Hollywood Jim]

As far as some of the suggestions you guys made, I need to elaborate on my location. The only hobby type store I have near me is a Hobby Lobby. I have no real hobby shops. I'm not familiar with Milliput. I've heard of it, but that's about it. I also no longer have access to styrene, without driving about 50 miles for it. The ideas you guys are giving all sound great, but could you point me to somewhere online to get the stuff? I'm sorry to be a nag.

Simple way to do body work is to Build the basic shape you want with plastic. If you can't buy any, use junk, spare plastic stollen from other kits. (Hobby Lobby should Have some sheets of plastic.) Use superglue to glue the plastic in place. Go to your local auto parts store. Get some Bondo or other two part car body putty. Mix it up, slap it on, wait till it dries, then sand it.

That is what I did on this one:

[Guest Davkin]

If you have no LHS access then I'd say for a short notice solution the Super glue is probably the way to go. I personally use extra thick CA a lot. I first use a tooth pick to apply the thick CA where I want it, and since it's extra thick it doesn't set quick at all and gives me time to move it around and shape it a bit. Then I apply some accelerator to the area to get the CA to set instantly. If you don't already have thick CA and accelerator the regular CA and baking soda trick mentioned by Ken will work. Other than CA I also use the Eurosoft that Wolfer mentions, it should he available at any 1:1 paint and body supply store but is far from cheap. In a pinch you could also use Bondo spot putty, the red stuff that comes in a tube, that should be available at any auto parts store, however with any non-catalyzed putty you run the risk of shrinkage over time, even months later. The auto parts store might have Bondo's fine catalyzed putty, which is similar to the Eurosoft but it not as fine and smooth but it's a little cheaper, but still not cheap.

David

[notfastenuff]

Thanks for the tips guys! I'm going to experiment with the super glue and CA method. I've got some of the red spot putty, but God only knows how old it is. Unfortunately, HL doesn't carry any type of plastic or styrene stock, just the metal RR stuff. I appreciate all the help here. I've got a long way to go. Thanks again!

[Harry P.]

Here's a quick lesson on putties: DON'T USE THEM!!!

I'll explain. Model "putty", whether made by Tamiya, Testors, or anyone else, is junk. If the stuff comes in a tube and is applied directly by squeezing it out like toothpaste, stay away from it. ALL putties of this type are basically very thick paint. They cure via evaporation, that is, the volatile solvents that make the putty squeezable evaporate, leaving behind the hardened putty. The problem is, if the product hardens by evaporation, then by definition a portion of the volume of the putty applied is lost... it literally goes away via evaporation. The inevitable result is SHRINKAGE! Think about it...if the putty cures by a portion of it evaporating, then obviously the volume of cured putty will be smaller than when you aplied it. The problem is, these types of putties continue to shrink for many days...weeks, even. Even after you think they're "dry", and you've painted and finished your model, the putty is still slowly shrinking. Sometimes you'll see seam lines that you THOUGHT were puttied smooth appear many weeks or months down the road after you've finished your model. Too late to fix it now!

ALWAYS use 2-part "catalyzed" putty, the kind where you have to mix the resin (the "putty") with a hardener. These types of fillers don't "dry"...they cure via a chemical reaction between the resin and the hardener, same way as epoxy cures. Once they've set, they are stable and permanent, and will not shrink! Evercoat and Bondo are two well-known brands. Bondo is available at any auto parts store or even Walmart. You don't need to go to a hobby shop to find it.

One more point: "Glazing putty" comes in two varieties, one-part and two-part. Use the two-part kind...for the same reasons I've just explained above. The difference between body filler ("Bondo") and glazing putty is that glazing putty is meant to be used AFTER the major body work has been done, and AFTER you've primed. It's really just meant to fill in tiny imperfections and scratches before final priming and painting.

What have we learned, class? One part putty, BAD! Two part putty, GOOD!

[CAL]

As far as some of the suggestions you guys made, I need to elaborate on my location. The only hobby type store I have near me is a Hobby Lobby. I have no real hobby shops. I'm not familiar with Milliput. I've heard of it, but that's about it. I also no longer have access to styrene, without driving about 50 miles for it. The ideas you guys are giving all sound great, but could you point me to somewhere online to get the stuff? I'm sorry to be a nag.

It's a two part expoxy putty for sculpting. You can just order it from Squadron Shops in Texas.

http://www.squadron.com/SearchResults.asp?offset=0

works great with water, sands, machines, and is easy to work with for a couple hours before it starts getting too hard.

However, that is part of the beauty of milliput, you can work it in different ways as it dries.

Get the main shape while it's still soft and add details as it hardens.

Edited January 6, 2008 by CAL

[Modelmartin]

I am a little late to this thread but will agree with Harry and every one else who agrees with him.

If you have hardware or home improvement store or even a good department store look for plumber's putty. It is a 2-part epoxy. You break off a chunk and knead it thoroughly and press it into the area you need filled. It cures super tough so do any carving or shaping before it completely hardens. It is similar to Milliput except it cures harder. It's cheaper too - for all of you tightwad model builders!!!

[CAL]

I am a little late to this thread but will agree with Harry and every one else who agrees with him.

If you have hardware or home improvement store or even a good department store look for plumber's putty. It is a 2-part epoxy. You break off a chunk and knead it thoroughly and press it into the area you need filled. It cures super tough so do any carving or shaping before it completely hardens. It is similar to Milliput except it cures harder. It's cheaper too - for all of you tightwad model builders!!!

Yes, I use plummer putty too, but for real rough work - basic shapes. Milliput is finer grain and and is more workable when hard.

[notfastenuff]

Thanks guys! You all have definitely given me plenty of ideas to play with. Went in to Hobby Lobby the other day and found something I'd not seen before. They had 2 different CA 2 part epoxies. One was a 5 min. and the other was a 30 min. Are these worth trying out? I'm gonna do the bondo method for the project I've been asking about in this thread, but I wanted to ask about the CA epoxy, too. Thanks again!

[GerN]

I use AquaMend from Home Depot. It becomes very easy to smooth with enough water in it (I keep dipping my fingers in water while kneading the two parts - this is about right). This then saves sanding.

Edited February 3, 2008 by GerN

[stanleymsn]

I tend to have good luck with Tamiya two part epoxy and White milliputty but it's all a test and trial see what works for you.

[evilone]

one word BONDO it is god to all my kits

[Modlbldr]

Someone mentioned not having access to styrene. If you need sheet styrene "For Sale" signs work well too.

Later-

[JamesW]

WOW, talk about bringin a thread back from the dead.