Which Glue?

[Jon Cole]

First, a Happy New Year to all!

I need to glue some Plastruct to styrene, but I don't have any Tenax glue. What are my other options?

Thanks!

[Guest Davkin]

I personally like Ambroid but that's as rare as hen's teeth nowadays. Plastruct makes a similar plastic welding solvent. Tamiya also makes one but I've found it to be too weak for my taste. One alternative to hobby products is MEK, you can find that in any hardware store, even at Wally World as well I beleive. However you need to use that stuff with caution, it's very strong and I've had it permanently soften model parts before, (not to mention the fumes from any of these products are far from healthy but MEK is the worst, use only in a well ventilated area.). BTW. Plastruct is styrene.

David

[James W]

I've been using Plastruct Bondene for many years without complaints. My LHS carries it and it works on kit styrene, Evergreen and ABS plastic as well as Plastruct's own, which I don't use much of but when I do, bingo it works for that too!

[Rudy]

I've been using Plastruct Bondene for many years without complaints. My LHS carries it and it works on kit styrene, Evergreen and ABS plastic as well as Plastruct's own, which I don't use much of but when I do, bingo it works for that too!

I have also been wondering what glue the pros use, I am a pretty amateur modeler myself and am not happy with the Testor's stuff in the orange tube. Super glue? I know it sometimes leaves a white residue on stuff. The testors stuff just take too ###### long to dry for alot of jobs. Any help would be appreciated. Sorry if I hijacked your post, I have also been wondering about this.

Thanks, Rudy

[James W]

Another tip if you are interested.

Don't throw out the tube glue with the bath water(?) mix some into the Bondene, in a seperate bottle, for those situations that call for a thicker glue and slower drying time.

It won't evaporate before you can stick the pieces togather.

[Zoom Zoom]

I have also been wondering what glue the pros use, I am a pretty amateur modeler myself and am not happy with the Testor's stuff in the orange tube. Super glue? I know it sometimes leaves a white residue on stuff. The testors stuff just take too ###### long to dry for alot of jobs. Any help would be appreciated. Sorry if I hijacked your post, I have also been wondering about this.

Thanks, Rudy

I use several glues. Most of the time I use superglue, applied carefully to the part that I am gluing to (such as a drop of glue in a locator hole). The part that I am locating I apply a bit of superglue accelerant with a Q-tip (such as a locator pin that goes into the locator hole). This allows me to place the part against the glued surface, and it sets in a few seconds. I also have a small needle applicator for accelerant (screwed to the top of the accelerant bottle) for less intricate work, I'll glue a part, apply it, then hit the joint w/the accelerant. Superglue w/accelerant is one of the greatest time-saving inventions that have really helped me speed up my building! Plus, the accelerant I use, from Bob Smith Industries (it's private labeled in a lot of hobby shops, in a brown spray bottle), doesn't affect paint, and also seems to completely eliminate the white "fog" that superglue can cause. I use accelerant all the time, I'm not patient enough to wait. I haven't had superglue fog on me in years. If it does happen, it's usually just a white powdery residue that wipes or polishes off.

If I want to weld styrene before paint, I use liquid glue like Ambroid, Plastruct, Tamiya, Tenax, Testors. That's when I'm doing bodywork and whatnot before getting to the paint, and I want a particularly strong joint. Works great for motorcycle tanks, gluing two wing halves together, two halves of a fuselage, a bumper to a body, or a body-colored accessory that needs to match and won't interfere w/final assembly.

I never use tube glue for styrene. It's bad stuff, it'll cause sink marks years later...it's too slow. I give it away. Funny how some diecast kits from Maisto and Revell came with great big tubes of the stuff! Certainly won't work on metal...

I use "Formula 560" Canopy glue for gluing in glass/clear parts, and a few details that go on a painted/finished body. It's really strong when dry, and cleans up with water if any seeps out onto paint, it's easy to clean up. Far safer than using superglue on a body! Much stronger initial bond than Future or clear paint which some use to glue small parts. You can also find watch crystal glue for gluing clear parts. It's a lot like the Testors tube glue, but it dries better and the applicator is much finer. Testors sells it as well. I use it very occasionally.

If I need a particularly strong glue joint, I'll use 5 minute epoxy. I don't use it much, but sometimes it's necessary for side mirrors, wheels, or other fragile parts. It also wipes clean w/water before it dries, if you have any accidents with the glue.