Glue

[ouel88]

What type of clue do you guys use or recommand?

Can you use crazy glue? Might be a stupid question but I have a TON at my work and I'm wondering if I could us that?

[Brett Barrow]

Sure. Crazy Glue is just a brand name for Cyanoacrylate (C/A) glue which is sold under many brand names like Super Glue, or hobby-market brands like Zap-a-Gap or Bob Smith Industries' Insta-Cure.

Don't use on chrome or clear parts, the fumes it gives off while curing can cause a frosting effect (known as "chlorosis").

[ouel88]

Sure. Crazy Glue is just a brand name for Cyanoacrylate (C/A) glue which is sold under many brand names like Super Glue, or hobby-market brands like Zap-a-Gap or Bob Smith Industries' Insta-Cure.

Don't use on chrome or clear parts, the fumes it gives off while curing can cause a frosting effect (known as "chlorosis").

What should I use for chrome/clear parts? Sorry for all the questions I'm a newbie to all this.

[slusher]

I still use Testors orange tube glue for models. Its been around forever and will not haze glass over like most super glue. I have used it 41 years now...

[Brett Barrow]

What should I use for chrome/clear parts? Sorry for all the questions I'm a newbie to all this.

Then I wouldn't use super glue, I'd start with regular plastic cement type glues, they're slower and give you time to re-position parts. I don't use them on clear, they will eat into the clear plastic if you get any where you don't want it. I use a white glue like Elmer's for clear (to be specific, I use a hobby-specific brand called Micro Kristal Klear, it's sort of like Elmer's on steroids).

I use Tamiya Extra Thin (green cap) for most assembly and regular Tamiya Cement (orange cap) for when I need more working time. It's pretty much like tube cement in a bottle. I've been using liquid cements for a long time, but lots of builders prefer tube cement. There's no right or wrong way, it just comes down to personal preference.

Learn the basics with cement glues, then you can switch to the instant-type CA glues after you get basic assembly down. As a beginner you're bound to get the wrong part glued in the wrong place (I still do), cement glues give you the chance to fix that.

When gluing painted or chrome parts, be sure to scrape the paint or chrome off the gluing surfaces when using cement glues (really should do that with any glue)

Edited May 20, 2014 by Brett Barrow

[Danno]

Brett gave excellent advice.

I use liquid glue for joining bare plastic assemblies. It kind of 'welds' or melts the pieces together, providing a good, solid bond.

I use super glues (CA) for parts with positive attachment locators, like pins that fit precisely into holes to position parts exactly.

But I use epoxy for strength in a lot of assemblies, especially when joining painted or chromed parts.

And, I use the hobby-formula white glues (such as Canopy glue or Krystal Klear) for clear parts, transparent parts (taillights), etc. As a bonus, it can be used to create lenses or instrument panel glass, as well.

Hope this helps! The real key is to experiment with the various options and find your own comfort level with each. They all have their own strengths and weaknesses, and they all do something well, but none does everything well.

[Mike Kucaba]

"I have used it 41 years now..."

That must be one big tube o glue (sorry, couldn't resist)

[Harry P.]

Please post questions in the Question and Answer section, not in the Tips section.

Asking about what sort of glue to use is a question, not a tip or trick or technique.

[Danno]

"I have used it 41 years now..."

That must be one big tube o glue (sorry, couldn't resist)

Yeah, mine usually dried up after a couple of months. [Rimshot.]

[Art Anderson]

Sure. Crazy Glue is just a brand name for Cyanoacrylate (C/A) glue which is sold under many brand names like Super Glue, or hobby-market brands like Zap-a-Gap or Bob Smith Industries' Insta-Cure.

Don't use on chrome or clear parts, the fumes it gives off while curing can cause a frosting effect (known as "chlorosis").

Geez Brett! I use Goldberg SuperJet (my preferred brand and grade of CA glue) for almost all final assembly of model cars, INCLUDING glass and chrome parts!

My "secret"? Bob Smith Industries makes an excellent CA Glue accelerator, which when spritzed on the wet glue joint, sets it up right now, and in the bargain, ABSOLUTELY PREVENTS any "fogging". I think you saw my '49 Merc wagon at NNL East--that was almost 100% assembled with SuperJet and BSI accelerator--not a hint of fogging on that car, believe me!

Art

[Brett Barrow]

Geez Brett! I use Goldberg SuperJet (my preferred brand and grade of CA glue) for almost all final assembly of model cars, INCLUDING glass and chrome parts!

My "secret"? Bob Smith Industries makes an excellent CA Glue accelerator, which when spritzed on the wet glue joint, sets it up right now, and in the bargain, ABSOLUTELY PREVENTS any "fogging". I think you saw my '49 Merc wagon at NNL East--that was almost 100% assembled with SuperJet and BSI accelerator--not a hint of fogging on that car, believe me!

Art

It can be done, I have no doubt (I use CA on aircraft canopies all the time if I need to fair them into the fuselage), but I wouldn't recommend it to a beginner. I use BSI's accelerator, too. I've found it to be totally plastic safe, other brands can haze the plastic - especially clear.

Was just trying to give some noob-friendly advice. There's a million and one ways to skin a cat in this hobby, and every time somebody tells you not to do something, someone will come along and tell you that they do it with no problem.

In short: with practice and experience you can violate pretty much any modeling "rule".