Dale W. Verts Posted June 23, 2014 Posted June 23, 2014 Okay, this isn't really a rant. I'm still new (again) at this, so bare with me. But I've bought over a hundred kits now, and I wonder about an industry-standard for what you're actually purchasing in a kit as far as what's inside, especially leaning towards the DEATAIL of the kit. A simple parts count on the OUTSIDE of the box would give you at least a clue (in all fairness some kits DO include a parts count on the box in a really small font) I've now bought several kits that are borderline junk- they're curbside (or worse, SEMI-curbside with an ugly, no-detail TWO-piece engine that's visible with an open hood). The differences on "good" kits range from 80-85 parts, up to regularly over 100. The latest, and the one that got me fired-up, is a "Mr. Hobby" '56 Oval Window VW that I just got in from an eBay purchase. I asked the man, "Is it a complete model (bad choice of words probably, because it IS "complete") or a curbside kit?" He of course didn't understand and answered "complete". So dummy me, I now own another high-dollar ($25 + shipping) kit that's essentially a just a Bug body that I may or may not be able to use somewhere else. It's pretty badly molded, too. A whole 'nuther subject, right there. I do think I'll be steering clear of these Japanese kits that come in flat boxes from now on. Anyway, other than experience (which I'm getting/paying for) I guess there's no way to know about the kit you're buying? Skill level? Probably not. Again, not a rant. Just an observation, and maybe ya'll can teach me somethin'. Dale
wrecker388 Posted June 23, 2014 Posted June 23, 2014 Most Revell/Monogram kits have a parts count and skill level marked on the outside.
Harry P. Posted June 23, 2014 Posted June 23, 2014 Easy solution: Next time you want to buy a kit, ask for info here first. You'll get plenty of good, solid advice.
cobraman Posted June 23, 2014 Posted June 23, 2014 Ask the guys here and they will give you the straight skinny on just about any kit before you drop your hard earned cash.
cobraman Posted June 23, 2014 Posted June 23, 2014 Hmmmmm. Posted at the same time. Great minds think alike ??? : )
Tom Geiger Posted June 23, 2014 Posted June 23, 2014 The American model companies have been tooling up kits for over 50 years and much of that tooling still exists and pumping out kits today. The standard of detail expected on a kit, injection molding capabilities and even the wear and tear on these molds will give you completely different results when you open up a kit box for the first time. There have been posts by folks like yourself, new to the hobby, who bought say an AMT '57 Chrysler 300 and marveled over the parts and level of detail (tooled about 10-15 years ago), then bought an AMT 1962 Buick (tooled in 1962 with a one piece interior bucket, one piece chassis etc) and balked that it was quite different! As said, ask here on the board about any kit and you'll get a load of opinions!
Brett Barrow Posted June 23, 2014 Posted June 23, 2014 (edited) Yes, "complete" was an unfortunate choice of words. My advice is always assume Japanese kits are curbside. When you get one with full engine detail it's a bonus! I believe that Tamiya's 66 Beetle is the only Beetle from the Japanese companies that is full-detail. Also pretty sure that the Mr. Hobby (Gunze-Sangyo) and Aoshima Beetles are the same tooling. *edit* - nope I'm wrong it's Aoshima and Imai that are the same... As others said, ask here first, or you can check out a neat site called Scalemates that aggregates kit reviews and also provides a timeline of a kit's provenance. It's not a complete listing of every kit ever made, but it's pretty good. http://www.scalemates.com/products/ Edited June 24, 2014 by Brett Barrow
Zarana-X Posted June 23, 2014 Posted June 23, 2014 (edited) Ask about a particular kit here, first. Gunze Sangyo/MR. Hobby kits are mostly curbside, and the wheels rot and split in about a year or two. Araii & Imai kits are pretty bad all around. Both of these companies went under and sold off their molds, so, be cautious. On the other hand, Tamiya, Hasegawa and Aoshima's original toolings are excellent. If you're interested in VWs, check out the Tamiya 66 Beetle and Karmann Ghia. Hasegawa's Type 2 offerings, and the new Revell Beetle kits. Steer cleer of the vintage Revell VW kits, unless you like a challenge, or cussing a lot. Edited June 23, 2014 by Zarana-X
Harry P. Posted June 23, 2014 Posted June 23, 2014 Hmmmmm. Posted at the same time. Great minds think alike ??? : ) Either that... or disturbed minds....
Harry P. Posted June 23, 2014 Posted June 23, 2014 But seriously, folks... What is an online forum for if not for the gathering and sharing of information?
jbwelda Posted June 24, 2014 Posted June 24, 2014 that's right; that's what this place (among others) is good for. its basically doing your homework before you buy something. like that VW kit you mention, im sure if you did a little research you would have realized you were just buying a transkit (that's another one of those kinda words: it means that it is meant to be used in conjunction with a pre-existing kit you are supposed to source elsewhere). in this case you probably got a kool desirable body to use on the gunze VW. generally though you are probably buying complete kits. early Japanese kits (and they are often still available on reissue) are of some nice subjects but many began life as electric powered toys and were later adapted to the static model and often some enticing box art is thrown on there and bingo! that is somewhat the case with companies like Araii & Imai, and also Tamiya and the other bigger names often are of a similar lineage. that is where the simplified chassis comes in and many times the interior as well. if you want to build a better model then you might look around in your spares or buy another kit to supply a likely interior or whatever. its part of the fun though admittedly there is that sinking feeling when you first open the box to see a beautiful body and a chassis with a big bulge for the electric motor!. back to your current dilemma though, I thought those resins were supposed to be pretty great but I guess not? that is a whole other discussion but again you learn who supplies quality and who doesn't, and its not always a linear thing with the price tag. now this VW if you don't want it you can probably just relist it on ebay and turn it over, maybe make a few bucks for your trouble. jb
rel14 Posted June 24, 2014 Posted June 24, 2014 Model cars Mag gives you half a dozen previews or builds each month,, check it out,, Or just ask Harry.
Dale W. Verts Posted June 24, 2014 Author Posted June 24, 2014 See, this is what I'm talkin' about- good information! And no one has really come out and called me a goofball. Brett, thanks for the link! I've bought enough VW kits to see the difference between "good" and "bad". Not to much "good" out there, unfortunately. The oval-window is COOL. So I have a $31 body to use on another project- the rest of the kit is hopeless. And again, this mody has mold-marks that are like new body lines. Gotta love a challenge. Thanks everyone for the help. Dale
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