Scratch building a classic muscle car.

[fractalign]

Here is the inside view. Next task will be to make up the door skins.

[66belair]

Cool project,you all have some really interesting cars in Australia.

[DynoMight]

Really interesting subject, I've never seen one.. Probably because they're only in Australia.. Keep up the good work

[fractalign]

The coupes and sedans were unique to Australia but a smaller number of station wagons and sedans were built over in Korea. Because General Motors owned owned Holden the Korean version was badged as a Chevrolet 1700. Although the Australian and Korean version shared the same under pinnings, the Korean version was only available as a 4 cylinder.

[fractalign]

Even though there was never a Torana station wagon that did not stop this one from being put together. The conversion is done so well it looks factory stock. He has used a coupe with the longer doors as the basis of this conversion.

[72 Charger]

realy cool project I cant wait to see more

[TFchronos]

Amazing craftsmanship, nice work.

[heeter_33]

Wow, your work is incredible. I've been a long time lurker of this forum, and because I want to save a record of this thread I finally joined. Curious to see how it works out because I've been considering building my own model farm equipment.

[fractalign]

Hey Guys.

Firstly thank you for all the support its greatly appreciated. Unfortunately my internet has crashed which is why I have not been uploading anything.

I will be uploading every 2 or 3 days from where ever I can access the internet until my own service is fixed. I have started work on the door skins so there will be plenty of photos to put up in the next couple of days.

Cheers.

[Pim]

Great model this will it be a curbside or have engine detail because on the resin one that came out they recommended that you used an amt 1969 mustang for the chassis

[fractalign]

I will be scratch building almost everything including the chassis and even the wheels. As far as the engine goes I will be sourcing that from another guy in Victoria. He does resin red motors.

[fractalign]

Hey guys.

The internet is back on so I have a whole pile of stuff to upload. Over the last few days I have worked on the door skins. The first thing I did was stick the two pieces together. You will notice the holes drawn in.

[fractalign]

With the two sides stuck together, I was able to get the right shape on the other side. The trick is to keep the two sides together for the duration, especially for when the holes need to be made.

[fractalign]

The trick with getting the rectangular holes cut is to make the pilot holes at just the right size. For these ones I used the tip a modellers knife. Once this side was done I turned it over and did the same on the other side to keep the both sides in balance.

[fractalign]

One the pilot holes were done I used a modellers drill to widen the hole. These drills are the same size as micro screw drivers and being unpowered means there is very little heat generated and less chance of mistakes.

[fractalign]

With the comers done I used a woodworking tool and mallet to punch out the squares.

[fractalign]

With the squares punched out I used the modellers drill on the other holes. Here is how the two sides look.

[fractalign]

Test fitting the door skin, you notice the gap between the door skin and the bottom of the door frame.

[fractalign]

To make up the upper part of the door skins, I cut two strips of 2mm styrene and stuck them together. I then rounded the top edges.

[fractalign]

Here is how they look. The upper part of the door skin protrudes by 1mm. The reason for this is that there will be a second layer for the lower door skin that when applied will sit flush with the upper part.

[fractalign]

With the basic door skins done, I decided I would have a go at making up the rest of the internal structure that surrounds the doors. The first thing I did was trace around the door skin.

[fractalign]

Here is how it looks.

[fractalign]

Sitting inside the body, I can get a better idea of how trimming will be needed. With the basic surround cut, I will be able to use it as a template the for the other body half.

[fractalign]

I finally added the belt line and sanded it down. With the beltlne in place I was able to cross check my measurements to make sure everything was in proportion. When I took the measurement for the doors and wheel arches, everything was measured along the belt line. I was finally able to finish shaping the rear wheel arch. I have yet to add lips to both arches but that will be done as soon as I get the other body half up to the stage of this one. That will be the next task.

Edited July 22, 2014 by fractalign

[microwheel]

This is starting to shape up really nice. Looking forward to more of your progress.