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Posted (edited)

im struggling with it, on cars its totally new to me. i put the BMF on say the area on a Lindberg Crown Vic, front rear bumpers, i use a cotton bud and tooth pick, to push down and show me where to cut, which i do with a new razor blade. I can sort of do that ok, slow and not too good

Im struggling with curved areas, and along door edges etc just wondered if you do it in shorter lenths. I would love to use a silver pen, but cant find any, although not looked on ebay yet. I use a black Sharpie for thin detail on the body, rather than paint it.

thanks

Edited by English Jules
Posted

Julian,

For trimming BMF around the edges, why not use an Xacto (or whatever is available in the UK) #11 knife blade? Those are as sharp as a razor blade, but being cut and sharpened at a very steep angle, are MUCH more controllable!

Art

Posted

yeah i have those, i did try it with a new blade, but i couldnt get it to keep onine using a Xacto then i could with a razor blade. I have been using a black Sharpie for the black trim around windows etc, and to use for blacken the areas around the rim of the window areas on the clear parts. Orderd some chrome silver Sharpies, to see if they are any good for doing the chrome areas also.

ta for the reply, much app

Posted

yeah i have those, i did try it with a new blade, but i couldnt get it to keep onine using a Xacto then i could with a razor blade. I have been using a black Sharpie for the black trim around windows etc, and to use for blacken the areas around the rim of the window areas on the clear parts. Orderd some chrome silver Sharpies, to see if they are any good for doing the chrome areas also.

ta for the reply, much app

First of all, a brand-new Xacto #11 blade (that's never been used for anything else!) is an absolute must. Second, you might try holding the knife handle so that the cutting edge of the blade is as a rather shallow angle to your work--that's how I've trimmed BMF since it first came out about 1971 or so.

Art

Posted

First of all, a brand-new Xacto #11 blade (that's never been used for anything else!) is an absolute must. Second, you might try holding the knife handle so that the cutting edge of the blade is as a rather shallow angle to your work--that's how I've trimmed BMF since it first came out about 1971 or so.

Art

ok ta wil try that angle bit, i always use a virgin blade. Im just not very good. The silver chome Sharpies arrived, just tried it on the trim around the doors and windows of the Lindberg CV and it looks spot on

Posted

Hey Jules, don't be afraid to try different cutting tools also. I found I did better with a blade that's curved and meant for the #2 handle. I ground the shank to fit a #1 and that helped me. Also blacking out the blade with a marker helped too.

Posted

Already said but worth repeating is a New #11 blade. One 50's car may take several blades. And i also use a shallow angle when i draw the blade across the trim line.

Another tip i can offer is on cars with long side trim i work in sections. I will do from the nose to the door panel line in one section, then the door , then the rear section. Helps me out. Also some cars like my black 300 i posted dont have a defined top line where the trim meets the body. I found it easier to cut my foil using a straightedge for the top line while on the paper. Place that upper line first, burnish and trim the lower excess.

Posted

Hey friend....

It may also help if you scribe the edge of the trim so the blade will have a nice path to follow. I use a set of tweezers of all things to scribe with as they come to a sharp point and make a nice V-shaped cut.... Just be sure to do your scribing before primer and paint...

Posted

Julian... using foil is something–like any other skill–that takes a bit of practice before you get good at it and are comfortable with it. You'll be fine. In no time you'll be foiling like a pro. None of us were born knowing how to foil... we all had to learn it, and practice it. B)

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