Mach1revo

No gauge decals. I also did the Paystar before this project. Made mine as a logger.

The bigger ones toward the bottom are just drybrushed using testors chrome silver enamel.

This one? http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=79987&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1

Excellent build!!! Great attention to detail! Great paint!! Well done!!

Did puzzles from the 60's not fit together either? Maybe Round 2 should switch to puzzles as well. I get that there is a nostalgia feeling associated with some of these kits. But why not want or push for a NEW tooled kit of those vehicles done with todays technology? If its nostalgia you want find a mint sealed original.

I didnt say stop buying All reissues, but some tools are just worn out and not worth buying. I agree that fitting, filling , sanding , filing etc...are part of modeling. I feel they are essential basics that need to addressed on EVERY model. However when half the kit doesnt resemble what it is sold as or is unusable as sold then whos fooling who? Sorry but i will spend my money elsewhere. If a company doesnt want to change or advance then yeah they will most likely go under but i dont think that the hobby is going to die. In fact i feel the hobby is better than ever. Advances in mold technology and manufacturers willing to excell have contributed to us seeing some of the most incredible kits ever.......just it seems the car kit side seems to lag behind , again i feel because the car guys will continue to buy sub-standard kits. Til you force their hand have fun with the lack luster reissues....lol.

Now i will add that Moebius has done a great job bringing high quality kits in at the same price point as revell/round 2. I have found the 2 i have built to be well engineered and great fitting kits. Are they without issue....no. But i was impressed overall with them.

They reissue these worn out kits because so many people request them. Many ,if not all the Round 2 reissues are decades old by now. Same as many of the Revell reissues. Tamiya has a few rough molds out as well and even their newer kits suffer from too many ejection pin marks in hard to fix areas. Aoshimas newer releases are quite impressive so far but still have some small fitment and alignment issues. If you want better kits than speak with your wallets and dont buy or request the worn out oldies. However be prepared to pay more for a better quality product. I know thats tough for many on a tight or fixed budget. On the military side kits from Meng and Trumpeter are amazing with very fine detail, minimal flash / mold lines ,slide molded complex parts , and much higher parts count. Also they may include brass photoetch and or aluminum parts. Those kits are typically 2/3 times what a car kit costs. But thats what the military modelers demand.

The patina looks great but i agree with some others in that a few rust streaks , toning down the chrome and underhood area would pull it all together.

Thanks for all the compliments everyone!!

Me and my younger brother are making the trek from Orlando . Me missed entering when it was in Disney. Should be a fun road trip!!

Pim that is a 1/35 scale HET m1070 kit from HobbyBoss

Khier , yes it is cleared with Dupont 7480s acrylic clear. The Tamiya color is acrylic airbrushed thinned with lacquer thinner. Thanks

Front lowered now and mocked up with the grill and smooth bumpers. Comments and suggestions welcome!!

Update: C notched the frame and i am rebuilding the rear crossmember. It will place the rear axle basically where the frame rail used to be but still provide room for suspension movement as id like it to be realistic looking and not bottomed out. I havent lowered the front yet in this last pic. What do you guys think of the stance? Lower the front or leave it a little nose high?

Already said but worth repeating is a New #11 blade. One 50's car may take several blades. And i also use a shallow angle when i draw the blade across the trim line. Another tip i can offer is on cars with long side trim i work in sections. I will do from the nose to the door panel line in one section, then the door , then the rear section. Helps me out. Also some cars like my black 300 i posted dont have a defined top line where the trim meets the body. I found it easier to cut my foil using a straightedge for the top line while on the paper. Place that upper line first, burnish and trim the lower excess.

Cool Todd!! Any issues? I dont think ill have it ready for the Orlando show but we will see.

I finished this build last year. NNever fully posted it here. Moebius 55 Chrysler 300 kit. Great kit with very few issues. Mainly built OOB with the exception of plug wires , fuel line , scratchbilt rear shocks (kit ones are pretty weak) , and brass wire antenna. I did foil all the scripts before paint and polished to expose them as the kit emblem decals are not very good. Paint is MM Black ( lacquer) Dupont 7480s clear. Interior paint is Tamiya XF-57 Buff. Various washes with AK interactive products.

Color choice is always a struggle for me. Ive been leaning toward Model Master Inca Gold. Aside from that i havent picked any other colors yet.

This is a side project I started while working on my Hudson. Now that the Hudson is done i can get going on this. Started with the Revell 48 Ford custom kit. I didnt like the how high the rear roof line is on the kit body. I cut the rear across the roof and made pie cuts on the side of the rear window. Bent everything down and in and reglued. Reshaped rear quarter windows and sloped b pillars. I shaved all the raised bodyside moldings and rescribed the door to be frameless. The pics will show the progression. Comments or criticism always welcome.

JGSDF is Japan Ground Self Defense Force. The truck is used and built in Japan. This version i believe is made by Mitsubishi.

Amazing work Harry!! I love the Fire truck!! What are you using for the brass? Alclad?

Again thank you for all the compliments!!! I will have this build at the IPMS Nats if anyone is going. This will be the first time i enter in the nationals. I also have a build im bringing posted in "All The Rest".

Trumpeter 1/35 scale kit. Figure from Tamiya. Paint is Tamiya acrylics and Testors Gloss coat/Dull coat. Weathering is done with Tamiya weathering kits and AK interactive products.

W-409 i thin the Tamiya acrylics with regular lacquer thinner. Works and sprays great. The Tamiya paints are unique acrylics that can be thinned with everything from lacquer thinner to iso alcohol and their own x-20a thinner.